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Sam Wells

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Posts posted by Sam Wells

  1. I think your expectations for these lenses may be a bit too high. They are not going to have the resistance to flare / veiling glare as more modern glass. The Kitchen shot with the 17.5 does look a bit overexposed with respect to the others, but it might be lens internals as well - shooting into the light source you are flashing the negative in a sense....

     

    -Sam

  2. It may also come from fragmenting the CF card so it'd be best to not delete any clips. So it's probably a wise decision to format the card in the cam prior to shooting new stuff. If you delete clips some sort of fragmentation may occur.

     

    For burst shooting with my D3 I format each card (Extreme IV Ducati) twice in camera before shooting. And deletions can cause fragmenting, yes.

     

    Not quite an analogous situation, but FWIW

     

    -Sam

  3. Hi Chris, I guess you may be right.

     

    maybe the Nikon D3 with (12 ?) taps on the chip is just doing a fast read ?

     

    Wherever the reset "is", I haven't found it. I thought maybe the shutter was hiding it, or maybe it is an effective global shutter.

     

    Curious....

     

    -Sam

     

    ps not denying the Red has skewing issues (wouldn't deny D90 in video mode either !!)

  4. I think the differences are really overstated

     

    200K difference in the target is visible but that's not what you're asking the filter to do, 5500K is a kind of generalization for daylight, there's far more than 200K difference between shooting at noon an 5 PM, there can be 2000K difference going to full shade etc etc

     

    -Sam

  5. Exactly. Even if they had a mechanical shutter, the chip read speed still couldn't keep up with an "open" shutter.

     

    Chris

     

    I'm not so sure - my Nikon w/ CMOS can do up to 9 fps Full Frame & 11 fps DX frame & I see no significant skewing... admittedly higher frame rates there would be mechanical issues with that type of shutter (but a focal plane disk could solve them) but I don't see why you'd have skewing / reset artifacts at say 24 if you don't have then at 10 or 11, just more frames

     

    -Sam

  6. Of course the problem with "desktop colorists," is that often they put the really talented colorists out of work..... Which is something, as someone now who gets to, on occasion, sit in a 2K spirit suite. . . I never want to see happen (think of all the free coffee from their kitchenette we'd all miss out on!)

     

    True enough, I have Apple Color but don't have the way cool Jura-Capresso Impressa S9 that Shooters does; Davinci Schaminci, dime a dozen, but that is one rockin' coffee machine :rolleyes:

     

    -Sam

     

     

    http://www.1st-line.com/machines/home_mod/...so_machines.htm

     

    Note it has a render bar ! "2-line Alpha/Graphic LED display with graphics bar that indicates progress of the brewing process."

     

    Hmm marked down to $ 2399 Shipping Included......

  7. No don't take anything apart !

     

    Facing the light there is a pin on the right, pull it down and swing the door containing the fresnel lens open. Bring the lamp forward to the spot position for easy access. The EGT or EGR lamp will come out with a twist of the base. Put new one in, careful not to touch the quartz glass as you know. (there is a plastic sheath over the glass on new bulbs. Swing the door shut.

     

    -Sam

     

    ps make SURE there is NO power to the light, do NOT assume it's off if the switch is off, *every* light I have ever changed the lamp on I personally physically see it is not plugged in, I have never relied on someone saying so etc

  8. The problem I have with film now is that the complaint by the original poster is actually a fair description of what modern Kodak stock is designed to look like - bland, flat, colourless and 70s.

     

    They're doing this so as to keep ahead of ever improving electronic capture, but by turning it into a race of numbers they're overlooking the fact that this stuff looks like junk.

     

    P

     

    It's a different bland - or maybe we could compare to "poorly timed 70s film"

     

    Looking at a bunch of DVD's lately I've been thinking hey that looks f*** great - then I go oh yeah right it's 5248 :) etc

     

    Dunno why EK can't apply T grain and other aspects of V2, V3 technology to formulas that really worked.

     

    -Sam

  9. Shutter's a bit tight - can you fool the 5D into giving you closer to 1/50 sec ?

     

    White bal issues w/ the neon (yeah I know "d'oh, really?") but I would at least go a bit underexposed if you can't cc, at least the colors won't be in your face (but I suspect your camera can do better than this certainly my Nikon can) .

     

    Bar interior I'm thinking one or two battery operated Lightpanels would have de-Reded (no pun) skin tones.

     

    -Sam

  10. Nikon would probably have rather gone anywhere for a sensor except their competitor, including Kodak.

     

    Good day, Sam!

     

    I dunno, except for the D3 / D700 all have been Sony recently. Sony is only starting to be a competitor, - maybe - and I'm not sure Sony's chip division cares too much anyway. Remember Japanese companies will compete on one hand a cooperate on the other. Also Nikon makes photolithographic gear the others use in chip fabrication so some borders are almost ambiguous.... look at how 2 layer microlens technology has gone from Nikon D3 to Canon DSLR to Canon Vixia in a year....

     

    -Sam

  11. Arri 16S, very good condition (essentially single owner as I bought

    an unused camera) ser # 152xx (this is not an S/B).

    Very well cared for, flawless registration.

     

    Sold with: Tobin TM-23 variable speed motor, very low mileage - much

    better than the stock Arri S variable speed motor (I'll include an

    old one of those too).

     

    Cine 60 8.4v battery belt & power cable; about 10 x 100' rolls shot

    with this battery.

     

    Angenieux 9.5-57 HEC zoom lens; superior to older pre-HEC zooms. f

    1.6 / T 1.9 at the wide end. Very nice lens, focusses to 2' at all

    focal lengths. (This lens does not cover Super 16, but should work

    with 2/3" model (RED) Scarlet Cinema version camera).

     

    $ 1500 for all of above.

     

     

     

    Bolex H-16 Rex 4 with large 13X viewfinder (from Bolex EL). Camera

    purchased from TCS in NYC and fine tuned by them at my request for

    the best image quality you can get from a Bolex.

     

    Sold with 10mm Switar RX (not the pre-set, but matches the 26mm quite

    well) also has Century Aspheric adaptor giving 6mm focal length.

     

    26mm Switar RX pre-set - truly great lens, excellent cond.

     

    75mm Switar f 1.9 OK lens, not as good as the 10 & 26.

     

    This is a great package for $ 2200.

     

    Will talk re prices.

     

     

     

     

    Will throw in a few 100' rolls Vision 2 neg.

     

    Contact off list if interested !

     

     

    -Sam Wells

    film/ digital motion arts/ central nj/ usa

  12. Did they even make this lens in c mount ?

     

    Designed for the SB and SBM (essentially Rex 4 and Rex 5 with bayonet mounts) it would seem. Definitely "RX"

     

    Nice lens.

     

    The Aspheron is a front attachment for it which gives a 6.6 mm FL if I remember correctly on the wide end

     

    -Sam

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