Steve Goodloe

Its on ebay, if you have any questions please ask.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...=STRK:MESELX:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=270510821309

On eBay now, can probably getting for cheaper, I just need to get rid of it and get some cash in the process.

Thanks

-Steve Goodloe

I'm selling my Arri 16M Arriflex 16mm camera.

Includes:

-Camera Body (with three caps for each lens mount)

-Century 10mm Lens

-Rodenstock 25mm Lens

-Makro Kilar 40mm Lens

-3 Mags

-Short 3 pin to 4 pin power cable

-Long 3 pin to 4 pin power cable

-Pelican Case 1650

I'm asking for $700+Shipping but willing to talk, I am in the greater LA area if you would like to pick it up that's fine.

I guess basically I'm just asking that if I buy a 10mm cine-xenon, I want it to have a 10mm field of view for a 16mm camera(since I own one of these), if it was meant for a 35mm frame then it would have a different field of view, I want to build a set of lenses that are varied. And I was just wondering if anyone knew what the differences in the names meant. So i can make an informed purchase of the lenses I am looking for.

If I'm explaining this wrong please let me know.

I was wondering if anyone new the reason for the naming difference? Is one set is for 35mm work and the other for 16mm? Or were they just different years of production?

I'm looking for lenses for my 16mm camera that I will be able to adapt with a PL mount adapter and use on the Scarlet 2/3" if it ever comes out. Seemed like the best option for my self seeing as the lenses would work on both cameras.

But I dont want to buy Lenses meant for 35mm work because I dont want to be dealing with the crop factor.

Any help would be great. Thanks guys.

Two words, Planet Earth. The entire reason I went out and got a blu-ray player.

Can you take an older S and give it a Bayonet mount? I know this seems a little backwards. But I already have the camera, and I just found the mount. Was wondering if that could work. Would there be any differences between doing it to a S or a M? Thanks for the input.

-Steve Goodloe

We have an Aaton XTR that has an intermittent vertical smearing problem. Not sure what is causing the problem. Seems like a pull down claw issue, But it is magnetically driven, would that effect this is only one or two of the magnets were not working? We don't know what the problem is and have been weary of sending it out because it didn't get fixed last time. I will post frame grabs from the camera when the student who used it brings us the tape. Thanks for the input.

I am looking into buying a Tobin TXM-22 for my Arri 16M but I have heard reports of the motor being so loud that it really didn't help because you couldn't record sound because of the noise. I was wondering if people had experience with it or any input. Seems to me there is no reason to buy it if your going to defeat the purpose of having it. I know the M is a loud camera anyway. So I guess I'm wondering if it is going to make more or less noise than a regular constant speed motor?

So I work at Montana State University we have 2 SR2's and 1 SR1. It gets really cold here in the winter. We have constantly run into a problem where once the DP puts the eyepiece to his or her eye, within five seconds the class has condensation forming on it. You could see how this can be a problem on long takes. Especially if your hand holding the camera. I was wondering if anyone knows a way to do something about this. Perhaps heating the eyepiece or something. Any suggestions would be welcome.

Thanks

Steve Goodloe

Repair Desk Manager

School of Film and Photography

Montana State University

Ok, so this might be an oxy-moron but what do people think are the highest quality prime lenses for an Arri M. Ive been looking at the Cooke Kinetal lenses, they look nice. What do people think?

Thanks for the input

Steve Goodloe

Well now that I've saved enough money to buy one for my camera, hes out, so if anyone is looking to sell one let me know!

Thanks.

Steve Goodloe

stevegoodloe@gmail.com

I have two shiny boards that the students here at Montana State have ripped off all of the flakes on the soft side of the boards. I purchased some Lee 273 Soft Silver Reflector to replace it with, however I have had a difficult time trying to find a good adhesive that will stick without creating bubbles. Any ideas for a good adhesive for this? I have tried Gorilla Glue and Rubber Cement with no success.

Thanks

Steve Goodloe

Repair Desk Manager

Montana State University

Just got my self an Arri M, I was wondering what tripod I should look into getting for it. Any suggestions?

Well we are though two days, made both days about on time. Today it snowed about four inches and we had to improvise and re-block as scene. That is always fun. We have shot five scenes of the 20 in the film. I will try to find some stills and post them tomorrow. We should have a set photographer starting tomorrow. Student film sets are always a mess trying to get a consistent crew. However I am really tired and going to get some sleep.

-Steve Goodloe

I'll have 3 HMI's two 1200w open face lights and 1 575w Fresnel. I did some tests and everything looked really good. The whites can sometimes get blown out, and I'll be looking more closely at that now, but otherwise everything looked really nice. I have a bunch of other littler tungsten lights but for the most part I am trying to use those.

Hey all. I'm going to post this here because I am a student and this is the first film I have DPed. Anyway.

I'm shooting my senior film here at Montana State.

I'm shooting on an Arri SR2. Using 50D 7201 for outside and using 100D 7285 reversal for inside things. I chose those to help bring out the colors of the film. We are really going for rich, deep colors.

It is a ten minute film about gender issues in society. It stars a high school aged girl who meets a drifter and teachers her about what she is really looking for. It is a musical, Bollywood inspired. The story has a very Bollywood feel to it.

As of right now it has a working title of DOS BOLLYWOOD... yes all caps... well at least thats how the director likes to write it.

I will try to post stills from set as soon as I have them, we start production tomorrow and go through next Thursday.

-Steve Goodloe

I wish they would make the full interviews from CS available, I would love to see them.

I assume you mean the blue in the nightclub? That's Rosco's calcolor 30 cyan (#4330). They're on uncorrected HMI's though so it's more like full CTB+30 cyan.

Ya thats what I was referring to, sorry for being unclear. Thats really cool, I'm big into colors, its neat to see what things look like. Cant wait to see more.

-Steve Goodloe

Hey, looks really good. I really like the blue, what gel is it? I like the stylized feel that I get from the photos. Hope to see more!

-Steve Goodloe

Figured it out, for most of the clips. Right Click, go to preferences and click off the check box that is there.

Ive been having trouble with this for a while now and wanted to see if anyone else was having the same trouble and knew how to fix it.

When I am importing the film i am currently working on using the whole import Panasonic p2 menu thing in Final Cut 5.1.4. I have some problems.

First off this doesn't happen to every clip just a few..

I will watch and name each clip in that importing window and then click add to render queue. For the majority of clips this works just fine. However, occasionally some clips will not import correctly. I can watch it in the menu screen just fine but when its imported the "Media Map Indicator" (the little Circle next to every clip) will only be half full. It shows full when its ingested everything, half when only part and empty when it hasn't ingested anything.

I have a clip that plays just fine in the import window, but when i import it, it plays back at 2fps...

Is there a way to make it ingest the whole clip? If it already has ingested part of it? Is there a way to fix this.

Basically does anyone know if I can save these files or are the corrupted?

I have a Bolex MST motor. I am trying to rig it so it can run off the same battery belt that my SR-1 Runs off of, it is a 12v battery belt so i think it will work. However, i cant figure out what pin is the hot and what one is the ground. I have the old Bolex battery but it doesnt work. I tried the Red for Hot and black for ground but that didn't seem to work. Any ideas?

Is their any way to put a 400 foot mag on a Bolex H-16 Rex-4? Is there someway I can modify my camera or do i need to actually have the Rex-5?