Luisa Ehrich

Hi Dave -- thanks for your response.

You're right, there isn't a c-mount version of the Duplikin -- I miswrote. What I have is an M42 mount. I'm hoping I can adapt it to the Nikon (without any insurmountable focusing issues) with something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/M42-Lens-F-Mount-Adapt...5QQcmdZViewItem

I have a Century Optics Duplikin II that I was hoping to mount to a Nikon D100. Unfortunately, there are no f-mount to c-mount adapters. Does anyone know how I might be able to make this happen?

Thanks,

luisa

I'm working on a 16mm project, finishing on print, and trying to explore my options for adding color tone to my prin. The project focuses on the human form so I'm hoping to attain an organic feeling with the color toning.

I have a good grasp on going through this process with my B&W footage but am wondering what my options are for color footage. I've considered using various inks or dyes and then sending the film through the optical printer, which is an option, but I'm also wondering what I can do with the timer at the lab. Any suggestions? Or any references for work where this has been done?

Thanks!

We processed a large run of super8 color negative late last year, around 200 rolls, that went on a Spirit in NY to D-5 I heard that they were very happy. There was also that picture in europe done to 2k on the spirit.

 

Still there is something about an optical print, Rob Todd at Emerson had a bunch of K40 he optically blew up to 16 on a JK and we processed and printed it for him and I thought it was special looking.

 

-Rob-

Thanks for the replies, Rob. I'm sure the Spirit would be out of my budget and I'm planning to finish on film (print TBD at Cinelab).

I'll have to talk to Rob T., then (especially easy since I'm an Emerson student).

Thanks to everyone else, as well. BB Optics turned out to be a great referral for me.

It was suggested to me that if I rephotograph my exposed, processed Super-8 color negative film onto interpositive stock (using an optical printer), I could have a print made of the film. Is this is accurate?

I guess the first question is why not use b&w negative film then?

 

If this were for a blow-up to 35mm, I wouldn't bother turning the 16mm b&w reversal to 16mm color negative, but if this is for a 16mm contact-print, then you need to end up with a b&w negative image. If it were on b&w negative stock, I'd suggest that you put it on a "C" printing roll when you conform the negative (into A-B-C checkerboard rolls).

 

But since you're copying it only color negative or internegative stock, conforming to an A-B roll would work.

 

Trouble with simply making a contact copy into color intermediate stock is that the emulsion ends up on the "wrong" side unless you can live with flipping the negative image to put it on the "correct" side (and ending up with a mirrored image -- you'd also have to warn the neg cutter). You could print through the base perhaps though that wouldn't look very good.

 

You'd need to use a 16mm optical printer and rephotograph the b&w positive image onto a color internegative. This could get expensive if you have a lot of footage to convert. It will also pick-up some contrast, grain, and probably some dirt & dust, 16mm being such a small format to be duping to 16mm.

Sounds like the best way to go is optical printing. I have access to a great optical printer, am meticulous about keeping it clean and have never had any problems with dirt and dust. Higher contrast might be an issue (and might deter me from rephotographing the footage) but grain is quite welcome in the project I'm working on.

I do have a question about your suggestion of using internegative. I've done 16mm blow-ups of Super-8 footage on the optical printer using 7212 and it looked great. What is the benefit of using internegative?

Also, in answer to a previous question of yours, I'm not not using B&W negative film by choice -- the reversal is something I decided I might like to use in a project after I'd already shot it.

Thanks.

Why do you need it on color stock? Do you mean you need it on 16mm color negative? Why, because you're intercutting it into a 16mm color negative project for printing in 16mm?

 

"LEE", the instructions when you registered said to use a first and last name as your User Name. You can now go to My Controls and edit your Display Name to a real first and last name as per the forum rules. Thanks.

Exactly, I'd like to intercut the footage into a 16mm color neg project to be printed in 16mm.

Username change on it's way.

Wondering what my options are to get 16mm B&W reversal onto color stock. Is there something I can have done at the lab or should I optically print the footage to color stock? And in that event, what happens to contrast?

Thanks for the help.