Jump to content

IvanKane

Basic Member
  • Posts

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by IvanKane

  1. Hi

    I am planing to sell my Eclair NPR. I was just wondering what you guys thought of the idea of converting it to S16mm before I sell it, for profit. It costs £750 to convert it. I think the price for a standar one is about $3000.

    cheers

  2. Hi guys

    I have never done any tests before on a 16mm camera and I was wondering if there are any standard procedure when it comes to testing the camera?

    It's a 16mm Eclair NPR. Another thing. I've checked the manual on how to adjust the shutter angle and I don't get it. How do I adjust it and how do I know if it's 180 or not?.

    There is one more thing. My motor is an AC one. Is there a way to get a DC adapter and use a battery or do I need to simply buy a new motor if I want to shoot EXT ?.

    Sorry, I just have so many questions. I'm a Film Student at the London Film School and the teachers there are not much help to be honest. I've been there for one year now and I've gotten most of my questions answered on sites like this one. How ironic:)

    Since I all ready have so many questions I might as well shoot one more.

    I just bought an Canon FD adaptor and a Canon FD 50mm lens. I spoke to this guy the other day and he told me that using SLR 35mm lenses on 16mm cameras actually doubles in a sense that it's actually like using a standard 100mm instead of it being 50mm. Is that true?

    Thank you for all your help. I really appreciate it.

    Cheers!

  3. So, how many mags could I get out of a 12 v, 7 amp hour? What size battery would you recommend (In terms of amp hours)

    Best,

    BR

     

    What if you have an AC Motor, 4 pin Canon chord?

    Can you just use any battery you would use for other Eclair NPR motors? or do I need something specificly for this one?

  4. Hi!

    I have an old Miller fluid head tripod and I can't mount my Eclair NPR on it because the screw on the tripod is too small. I tried to use a converter but it just broke. I guess I need to change the screw but I don't know how. It seems that I will have to screw the head apart to change the screw but then again the screw is not just a normal screw. Any suggestions what I should do?.

     

    Another question. Does the standard Eclair mattebox cover S16mm?

  5. Hi!

    I have an old Miller fluid head tripod and I can't mount my Eclair NPR on it because the screw on the tripod is too small. I tried to use a converter but it just broke. I guess I need to change the screw but I don't know how. It seems that I will have to screw the head apart to change the screw but then again the screw is not just a normal screw. Any suggestions what I should do?

  6. Image ''breaths '', is usually caused by two things: 1 insuficient loop, or 2: the pull-down claw hiting the negative, so check if there are any small marks by the perforation that indicate this.I hope that we are talking for flicker free lights here, so has nothing to do with lighting?

    Dimitrios

    Thanks guys :)

  7. Hi

    I have here with me a Perfectone motor 25fps with power pack 220V , power cable and aluminum case for Eclair NPR. I got it from Sweden and I'm located in London. My question is,

    Which voltage should I use (switchable) 110-220V?. Another thing, the plug is a Swedish one is it enough just to use an adaptor?

    PS

    Is this motor crystal sync or governd control ?

  8. Hi

    my 16mm Eclair NPR was just tested and the picture pulses/breaths you know, not completely steady. Any idea what I can do about that?. What if I let the camera run

    for a while?, it hasn't been used for about 2 years.

    Maybe that will help?. The motor I have is newly

    serviced Perfectone, Governed control so it can't be

    the motor's fault, unless they did a bad service.

    PS

    My lens is Angenieux zoom lens, 12_120mm.

    ????

    Any recommendation how to over all maintain the Eclair NPR?

    Thanks Guys:)

  9. Hi

    Does anyone have an idea of the best place in London is to service 16mm Cameras, I have an Eclair NPR. I took it to a shop called Blue Audio Visual: http://www.filmcamerakit.com/index.htm

    and they charge £300 for servicing 16mm Camera. Is that a fair price? or is there another place in London I should know about that do it for a cheaper price?. These guys have been fixing a Cristal sink motor for my camera for the past 2 months and they charge me £250.

    Hope I'm not being screwed over.

  10. I think the difference between 16mm and Super-16 will show up even in a letterboxed SD (PAL) transfer.  If you intend to shoot for 16:9 or 1.85:1 on a regular basis, Super-16 is a significant advantage for image quality.

     

    Thanks a lot for the great help :)

    I meant from tape to 35mm.

    So you recon I should go for the S16mm conversion?

    Cheers!

  11. Hi

    I need some advise.

    I have an Eclair NPR 16mm and a zoom lens, Cook lens.

    I am trying to put together a Camera package for a low budget feature to send to festivals.

    OK, I am really poor so I am wondering what would be the smartest thing to do?

    Should I convert the camera to S16mm which costs £700 and then I would have to buy another Zoom lens (zomm lens because it's cheaper) which cost about £800, service included or should

    I just shoot 16mm and use the lenses I have but pay £300 to service it?(Footage from camera phulses a bit).

    I could then transfer it to digital and put a letterbox so it looks like it was shot in S16, and if it's any good film I could then blow it up to 35mm if necesity, but then again I would loose quality right?, now how much quality would one loose?.

    Does it really make much dieffernce, shooting it in S16 or 16 and put a letterbox then blowing it up?. Isn't the filmstock to day so good?

    Thanks for a great forum

  12. It's to check steadiness & registration. If you simply shot a grid and projected it, you could not tell the camera's steadiness apart from the projector's steadiness.

     

    However, if you double-exposed the same grid in two passes on the same film, offset (shoot the second pass slightly panned over) so you could see both sets of grids on the same frame (not perfectly lined-up so that it looked like the same grid), then any camera steadiness problems would show up because you'd see the lines of one grid shaking or moving around RELATIVE to the other grid.

     

    But it's important that when shooting the two exposures of the grid that the camera is rock-steady on the tripod so that you don't add shaking from that.

     

     

    Thanks David :)

  13. This is how I typically shoot a registration test in the shop (and I do it almost daily):

     

    We have a special rig, but you can tape up a piece of paper with a grid on it.  It is better if the background is black and the gridlines are while (I'll explain later), but if you can't make something like that in mspaint or photoshop any grid will do.

     

    Setup the camera on the tripod and make sure it's not going to move and make sure no one around moves it.  Light the grid (make sure you're underexposing by a stop for the double exposure) and line up the grid in the TV safe pumpkin in your viewfinder, focus then put some tape over the eyepiece so light doesn't get in and fog your film while you run the test.

     

    I shoot one 50 foot pass at 24 frames per second on each magazine.  The mag can sometimes be the cause of the registration problem as well and it's best if you shoot at least three mags if you have them as this gives you a better idea what might be going wrong (i.e. one mags fails and two pass, its the mag, if all fail it's the camera body).

     

    This time tilt the camera a bit so the lines will not be overlayed by the lines from the first pass.  I rewind each magazine in a dark room and re-thread it up.  For each mag, on the second pass, I shoot 25 feet (of the original 50 feet) at 24 fps, then the last 25 feet at top speed (32, 50, 75fps, or whatever).  This second pass you should slate the speed and the magazine serial number.  I just put a piece of white gaffers tape and a sharpie on the grid out of the way.

     

    I put the three or four cores of 50 feet in a can and send it off to the lab.  When you send it to the lab tell them to DEVELOP NORMAL and to make NO PRINT.  You will then screen the negative (the black background will then be white and the white lines will then be black, its easier to read), as you don't need the redundancy of a print, and watch if the lines move.  Some, minor breathing, movement can be acceptable... you should be able to tell if the camera has a problem.  If you don't have the facility to screen the negative, the lab may do it for you if you're nice >8)

     

    If the camera fails, send the camera AND the test to somewhere like Du-All where they can rectify it.  Most experienced technicians can look at a reg test and intuit from the type of line movement what might be causing the problem.

     

    Good luck,

    nathan

     

     

    Thank you so much for your time to help.

    I really didn't expect anyone to actually give me such detail explanation.

    Best Regards,

    Ivan

  14. Hi

    I have an Eclair NPR and I need to test it to see if everything is a OK.

    Someone told me that I should draw up a grid then shoot it, rewind and shoot it again in the exact potision. Then project the image and see if the lines are shaking or out of line, if not then everything should be alright. Now could anyone please explain to me how to do it cause this doesn't really make sense to me?

  15. Thanx for the replies guys.

    I came to the very same conclusion.

     

    But here's the thing: Some (I'd like to call them "well established") DP's told me that exposing a greycard in a totaly different light level than a scene, can and does cause problems in exposure - even if both are correctly exposed. (Yet they failed to give me a clear explanation to that phenomena and refered to sensitometry).

×
×
  • Create New...