d humber

Its not a matter of what they learned on. The Fisher is a vastly inferior dolly. As a dolly grip of almost 20 years I can tell you that the Pee Wee is the best small dolly around. The Fisher 11 arm cannot handle the weight of a 35 mm camera properly to meet the demands of a feature film/television show. It's not a stable dolly.

It was the third rental, tenth day of paid work on the dolly. And yes, it was assembled properly in the first place. The cotter pins were of an inferior design and had to be modified to be trustworthy.

 

I agree that grips don't like to change their tools, although I usually find it the other way -- they want to use the Fischer 11 while I want the small size and versatility of the PeeWee.

That wheel falling off wasn't good, but since it isn't leased but owned by the rental company, maybe they hadn't maintained it properly?

 

I just find the grip community more conservative than Pinochet at times. I even here have trouble getting Fisher 11's on my job because the grips moan and want the PeeWee instead. That's what they learned on, that's what they're gonna use, come hell or high water. Don't get me wrong, the PeeWee Mark 4 is a fine dolly, but the Fishers lateral stability in

the jib is better. So if I know I'm going to be hanging the camera far out on an extension, I find Fishers better. They're also better to stand on and I like that little block battery compartment.

Actually the Fisher 11 is one of the most unstable dollies on the market. The arm doesn't have the lifting capacity to handle a standard 35 mm camera. it is slow on the up and rushes the downs. Also, the design makes it inherently unstable. The Fisher is a "box" meaning the wheels are under the chassis. The Chapman peewee and Hybrid wheels are on outriggers making the chassis more stable.

Due to a problem, my name has been misprinted. It is Darryl Humber

The key is anticipation. If a light goes up, be ready with any flags or stands that it might need. If it's your first feature as a grip, you probably haven't developed the eye for lighting to know when a light will need a topper, sider, lenser, etc. The main thing for you would be to know the equipment and as much about it as you can. Get a catalogue from Matthews, or American if you can and study it. Learn names and what each piece looks like. It will seem like a lot to digest and it is, so don't get discouraged. Gripping involves a lot of areas so just do the best you can and try to absorb what you can. For now, I would do the basics: If a light goes up, have at least a flag and stand set aside ready to run it in. If your key is setting something, make sure he has a shotbag, if dolly track is being laid, know where the wedges are and be ready with them. Above all, ask questions. We all started where you are now. Have fun. If you get sent to the truck for a "board stretcher" they are usually kept in the jockey boxes.

Good Luck,

ghard

I would never put an operator on hostess tray with a seat nor have I ever heard of one. If the shot is a lock-off, a regular hostess tray will be fine. If it needs to be operated, a process trailer is the answer (or maybe towing it and using hotgears on a hostess tray). Generally, speedrail based mounts have become the norm because of their versatility.

hope this helps,

ghard

There is a blog at dollygrip.blogspot.com with tips, stories, and insider stuff for dolly grips.

I noticed it too. In several medium shots, imperfections were visible on her skin, but in the close-ups, it was unnaturally flawless.

you don't say what your budget is, so it's hard to know what to reccomend. For rough terrain, Chapman has a vehicle called a Raptor that is basically a gator with a crane mounted on it. That in conjunction with a gyroscopic head would work (try the Lev head). or a steadicam operator on a 4-wheeler.