ian mussell

you can get a few different systems from http://www.filmquipmedia.com/ they're based in dubai and can ship easily to beruit.

they have the tyler side mounts, nose mounts or the mini gyro the prices vary greatly as does what the mounts are capable of have a look here http://www.tylermount.com/frameshome.html to see what works for you.

hey rob,

we've just been having the same problem with the imax on mi4, we wanted to do the same rig you're talking about but the weight is too much for the pan bearing of the libra (we're also using a modified blue stripe) i ended up using the front mount but with a 90 degree plate and hanging the head on that, so we basically lost the auto horizon and mounted the head on the same height as the top of the arm. saved us 16 inches with iso damp gone as well. here is the mount on the moviebird, showed this to our libra head tech and he says it's only possible with a light camera package (nothing more than a 435 with a lightweight zoom)

as far as i know there is nothing already in existence for moco, only repeatable.

all i can suggest is to get in touch with the guys at alpha grip they may well be able to sort something for you.

hi tony,

is the car driving during the move?

just a level 360 or jibbing up and down through out the move?

ian mussell

i use a honda load carrier like the one pictured a lot for moving my gear around locations, but it does get a bit frustrating sometimes because it's just a bit too small and at 4.2 kmph a bit too slow.

i was wondering if anyone knows of a company that makes a slightly bigger and faster machine of similar style?

i don't mind if it needs some modification but i've hit a dead end with my search.

any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

oh and of course remember to safety everything, i heard of a bungee snapping recently!

Hi all,

 

Looking to build a bungee cam rig on a Fisher 11 Dolly to hold an Arricam Lite. Probably can't get something smaller like a 235. Has anyone done this? Would like to cross the bungees in an "X." Thoughts on construction?

 

Thanks

hi tim,

i've done this a bunch of times, simplicity is the best way! i use a spreader bar on top wide enough to keep to bungees away from the camera body. on the bottom plate use solid stand-offs of around 5" to keep a good centre of gravity with one bungee on each side of the camera.

on a fisher i always put a rotating off-set then a foot and a half of risers then a twin tube paddle mount and hang the bungee on the end, it works really well to keep the rotating off-set unlocked in shot for small moves left, right or in, out.

I'm a grip based in dubai, we shoot on red here a lot in temperatures up to 54c in the shade!

in my experience it's not much less stable than a 435 as far as dealing with the heat goes.

hope your shoot goes well!

Ian mussell

"chinese" means sideways on the track, nose of the dolly one side, back of the dolly on the other side.

the aero jib when used with the aero slider is great,

also have a look at the egripment jan jib, i haven't used one for years but i remember them being pretty cool.

the alpha jib is not available for sale but is by far the best jib out there worth taking a look at!

http://www.alphagrip.co.uk/products/tour2/tour-1.htm

for hood mounts in speed rail i tend to build a speed rail frame that is the same basic shape as a normal bonnet beam and use some feet for the tube legs or even pags and some foam then just strap it the same as you would any other bonnet beam.

if your coming off the chassis then speed rail starters are great (i love the range from modern studio), but it's always more solid if you can find a hole right through the chassis and bolt in a half clamp, also if you're rigging an american style 4x4 you can nomally get a couple of girder clamps straight on the chassis!

i've shoot a few times with 90 degree plates, interestingly normally with american dop's.

unfortunately i can't remember why we used it :huh:

if you have one fabricated make sure it is nodal when you pan and there is enough room to get to all the plugs on the camera you're using, yet keep it as low as possible so you can balance easily on geared heads and you have enough counter balance on fluid heads!

fluid dutch heads are a pain, you can rarely balance them perfectly, they don't have enough counter balance for most film cameras and if you do balance them and Dial in enough counter balance they put the load so high that most fluid heads can't counter it! always nicer to use a swing head, i think. ;)

thanks for clearing that up daniel! we don't use these in the u.k, so don't have a name for them. i like the look of them though, i'm going to make a couple so i can try them out! :D

are they something like this?

what do you guys call a onky-bonk?

in the u.k we have onker-bonkers, they are 12" or 18" risers for turtles.