Steven Budden

Also, it looks like there might be one spec of fungus off to the edge, outside of the image area. Is there a way to keep it from spreading or should I send the lens back? One tiny speck. I'm taking the lens to have it checked out today but I was hoping to get another professional opinion. Thanks! Steven

Funny how both of those films were black and white, from the same year, about existential loners, and jumpstarted pretty huge film careers. I didn't actually notice Nolan directed Batman Begins. It never occured to me to even check out the director. That should be... interesting. No memento. I guess I got a good deal on the SBM. The was just surfing through ebay, saw this listing that just said... Bolex Movie Camera. As a sheer long shot, I emailed them for pics, and lo and behold, an SBM with a 13 viewfinder and a lot of extras! What are the odds? I've decided to go with JK camera for the conversion as well. Procam in Arizona also does a conversion for the same price as JK. They're one of the three authorized bolex people in the US, but I'm not sure who does the conversion. And I think I'm doing primes instead of the zoom, because I want to keep the artificial lighting issue to a minimal, and use a lot of natural light. Anyway, bit by bit. Also, I think you're right about the tobin Motor. I found a pretty sweet one that does crystal synch and time lapse, but it looks a little clunky and it's circa $1000. I understand the "job in an unrelated field" thing. I too am working on a script, as well as thinking of applying to a film school somewhere. So I'm kind of putting together a portfolio for that too. Anyway, if you ever need help on your film when it goes into production let me know. I'm a neophyte to film but a fairly strong creative writer/ editor/ critic. You read Story?

Anyone have a safe way of cleaning the lens element on a switar 10mm preset? I'm not sure what kind of coating is on there... I know they've evolved over the years. An old time camera buff used to tell us to put some powdered charcoal on the lens and gently dust it off with a q tip, as a way to avoid harsh liquid cleansers. Is the outer glass pretty fragile on these things? No scratches or cleaning marks... I guess it was just stored without the lens cap for a while, in the case but still... little specs of whatever. Any help appreciated. Thanks! Steven

Ian, Sounds like you and I have similar ambitions. Are you talking Christopher Nolan's Following? I have had similar ideas, and my ideal model is Pi: Faith in Chaos. Do you have anything written? I suppose that is the first hurdle. While I haven't gotten into the physical film part of it yet, I've been writing pretty steadily, trying to put together a simple, relatively existential tale about the confusions of youth... you know. Sounds like you're stocking up on cameras. The SBM doesn't seem loud at all but for the 100 ft metal daylight spools that are in there rubbing against the sides. I got the SBM for six hundred, with a lot of accesories, POE lens, filters, metal case, an old bolex BXE 70a motor, etc. Clearly it has hardly been used, for better or worse. The spring motor runs like new. No deal like your RX 4's but lower than all the RX 5's I was looking at. I've been slowly adding parts too since christmas. I feel like this adding parts thing could go on forever. I'm sure you've experienced a similar feeling. It's fun trying to hunt for the perfect machine within reach. But part of me feels like I should just dive in. This part hunting could be an excuse for me to delay. Fine, a few lenses, the conversion, and I'm starting! That's it! Steven PS. Sigh.

This Bolex SBM I haven't shot with yet... it looks as though the shutter sticks a little. When I look into the front without a lens when the camera is running, when it stops the shutter kind of stays midway down in the frame at an angle. Is this a sign that I might need a lube job. Hopefully nothing serious? The camera has barely been used, the spring motor seems strong. They used it a few times with a bolex motor. Inside looks immaculate. Also, could I be crazy but it looks like some moisture forms on the glass in front after I run it for a while. Looks like I breathed on one little spot at the right side, (my left)... but I swear I didn't! And always that little spot. What's that about? Also, is a lube job worth paying $300 dollars for or is it something that can be easily done, if one is careful? What could go wrong? Any help appreciated. Thanks! Steven San Francisco

Ian, Yeah, I'd forgotten that the Rex 5 costs a few hundred more to convert than the SBM. I actually bought the SBM for that reason, though I was originally leaning towards a rex 5... I liked that fact that I could use large zooms or primes. Also I was lucky enough to find a 13x viewfinder so that lowers that price a little too, according to my research. I'm thinking a little about the resale value too, so that when I eventually upgrade to a true synch camera (if ever) I could resell it for around what I put into it, maybe more. I know it makes me a little wary when I see converted cameras on ebay, because there are so many ways to get to that "conversion". I've seen some pretty hacked up conversions, with messy drill holes and visible file marks, etc. Does the JKcamera conversion come with a registration test or a lube job? Did you ever get the Les Bosher price? I emailed him but he hasn't responded yet. Thanks for the advice. By replying to my posts you're making this whole things easier. What is your experience level with filmmaking by the way? Steven

Helpful, thanks! Yeah, I was confused on the tobin thing. Really? There is a crystal synch bolex motor right? I thought I came across one somewhere. It has the jack in the back for the synch pulse. Check this one out. It is time lapse and synch. Anyone have any experience with it? http://www.ncspro.com/rev/bolex/index.stm Looks beautiful but a little pricy at $900 ish.

Hello, I'm working with a Bolex SBM which I'm about to have converted to Super. Anyway, I'm researching motors right now. Any suggestions? There is a bolex motor which looks nice, and the new Tobin motor coming out in July, only that is "installed" and doesn't allow for camera winding. That seems to defeat the purpose of having a wind up camera... I would have gotten an EL or an EBM. So I'm looking for a motor that I can remove with ease, that can be used for synch, and maybe even for animation if there is one that can do all of the above. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks! Sincerely, Steven San Francisco

Hey, did les bosher do your conversion? It's working out well still? What was the cost? Thanks! Steven

That is helpful... How could the supplementary lens that turns the 10mm preset switar into super wide not vignette if the 10mm already "barely covers" for super? Also, I am interested in theatrical release in festivals for the shorts, so I hear the 10mm is even more apparent in super for the blow up. Hmmm... so I can't just stick on a PL mount and use various lenses? Why do they make all these outrageously priced bolex SBM to PL mounts? As for the JK Camera... What would be the benefit of turning the Vario Switar POE 16-100 into a purely manual lens? Can't it be used that way anyway? And about the fungus... would I do better to try and have it removed or just purchase another lens, used or even new? The lens did come with a bunch of extras, Tiffen high trans filters that fit, an end lens that brings focus down to 3 feet. Has anyone had experience removing that fungus, or have knowledge about the cost? It also has a few deep dings in the barrel, so it isn't exactly a collector's piece anyway. Thanks for the suggestions! Steven San Francisco

I recently bought a Bolex SBM on ebay, and it came with a POE switar which seems to have a small amount of fungus forming in the lens. Anyway, it seems like the cost to repair the lens wouldn't be worth it because I've found a few of these new in the box for $800. ANd then I begin to think, $800, I can probably get a better zoom for just over that. Any suggestions on a zoom for super for roughly $1200? I have a Switar 10mm preset and a adaptor for c mount. I guess I have to get a PL mount to use most of the good lenses. A Canon 8-64 sounds nice but is a bit out of my price range. The whole reason I started with a bolex was so that I could afford to own my own equipment and head out to film when inspiration strikes, keeping it low budget/ experimental. And I don't really want to be treking around with 15000 dollar lenses even if I could afford to. Some of the non super, Angenieux are lower cost. Any deals in the 35mm range? Would it be cheaper to get a high quality picture out of a set of switar primes? I want a small sharp lens that I can do some handheld shots with, closeup being far more important for my current work than distance. I haven't even done the conversion yet. I'm just trying to secure the lenses that work first so when the converted machine comes back I'll be all set to go. Trying to decide between low cost conversion and the factory. Any help appreciated. Thanks! Steven

I've considered using him too. I just don't know what the difference might be between his work and the factory work. When I asked, he just said "they both work fine." But why is one $2500 and one $900? Anyone? Steven

Somewhere I read a post that said guy at cameras pro... his work was like a grade school science project caliber but it worked." The factory is an expensive place to do the conversion ($2000 ish) but they throw in a lube job ($300 at cameras pro) and a 1 year warranty. Depends. I just bought an SBM in really nice condition so I was thinking of doing the factory conversion. But is that just a complete rip off, like getting your car repaired at the dealer? I guess it depends on what you want to use the camera for. If you're going to do one short and resell it, maybe the cheap conversion, but if you want it to last, maybe the factory. Steven

Theo, Thanks. That actually helps. I guess I posted this post in the wrong section. Anyway, if you put the film into final cut pro for editing, does it change the look at all? Seems like if you're going to do that you might as well use a DV camera or something. Is the 16mm resoution still better? So, what kind of painter are you? Thanks! Steven

I am starting film with a Bolex SBM and am looking to begin working in a way that keeps things simple. I think splicing and editing the film by hand seems more reasonable until the sound comes into play, then it seems like digital would be the way to go for editing and recording. I am going to use a tobin synch motor, and I was wondering if I need to synch a digital recorder? I assume because there's no moving parts they always record at the same speed? Also, when editing digitally, is there any loss or change in quality via the transfers? I am coming from a background in painting and what I appreciated in that field was that each piece was very personal, and I am trying to approach film in the same way. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks! Steven

Also, The PL mount... does that cover 35mm still lenses as well as newer 16mm lenses? I just ask because I saw that there is also a Nikon mount. It sounds like I can get nice 35mm still lenses for much cheaper than the 16mm lenses that would produce a similar or better image. Is my reasoning flawed? Also, anyone know of any 35mm still lenses they've tried on 16mm (super 16, actually) and have gotten good results with? Thanks! Steven

Why would it cause vignetting or portholing with a lens hood? Is that the lens hood showing up at the edges of the frame? Steven

So I need the C mount to the PL adaptor, which would mean I need both? Money is kind of an object. Would the experts recommend the PL adaptor or the c mount? I guess it depends on preference. With the PL I can use the contemporary lenses and 35 mm lenses right? And any 35 will cover super 16 I assume? Anyone have any luck with any specific ones that aren't priced through the roof? Also, anyone have any personal experience with guy @ cameras pro? I was thinking of doing the conversion there. I'm in San Francisco. Anyone know of anywhere in town here that I could trust with the camera? I'll check out those manuals. Thanks everyone! Steven

Hola, I was looking to get a REX 5 bolex but I wound up with an SBM (because I found a good deal on one and it has the 13x viewfinder). Anyway, first of all I'm going to convert to super 16mm after I get it checked out. And then, I am interested in using primes but should I go for c mounts and get some kind of adapter or do they even make them for the turret? It came with one of those POE 16- 100 lenses and for one things its heavy and for another thing it looks like there is some white stuff inside the lens element just beginning... is there a way to clean that out? I want to use primes because I want to at least have the option of handheld and that lens is just overly bulky and heavy, and I want a wider shot. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Steven PS. Does anyone know where I can find the manual for the SBM or for that lens? Thanks!

I understand that one extends the image one way on 16mm perf film where the perforations would be, and Ultra extends them in both directions and needs no recentering of the lens. I'm considering getting my camer Rex 5 converted to ultra 16mm. It is cheaper and it seems ideal for many reasons. That's the problem... it seems to ideal. Is there any drawbacks? Also, why would you want to switch back to regular 16mm (some cameras advertise being able to switch back and forth?) For television? One more... processing costs of super, ultra, and regular 16mm are the same right? Any advice would be appreciated, or if there is a post that already answers this please direct me towards it (I couldnt' find it). Thanks! Steven

Hello, I'm thinking of Buying a newer Bell & Howell for starting 16mm filmmaking. I chose this model as opposed to the bolex because of 1. Price 2. Durability 3. Run time Anyway, on researching them I can see that the relatively more recent models can take film with a single perforation. Does this automatically mean if that film is used than it will be Super 16mm? I just wanted to make sure before I bought one. No other adjustments are needed? Thanks! Steven