Chris Gloag
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Posts posted by Chris Gloag
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A classic use of the mesmerizer....
Around 15 seconds it kicks in and it starts gettin' gooood.
Thank you for the link. Is this the only effect? Any other links?
Do you know how to get the same effect in post?
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Do you know how to get the same effect in post?
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Hi,
I am in the market for buying a Kish Optics Mesmerizer lens. Can you point me out videos where I may have a look on the effects shot with this lens?
Thanks,
Chris
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Hi,
I am in the market for buying a Kish Optics Mesmerizer lens. Can you point me out videos where I may have a look on the effects shot with this lens?
Thanks,
Chris
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btw.. the Mesmerizer would not give you that effect.. the Mesmerizer looks more like bad mushrooms... in a good way
Do you any links of examples shot with this lens please?
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It's an early model Iscorama attachment. It originally would have had a 50mm camera lens, which in would screw into, and it would also go on to a slide projector lens.
Unlike Nico's lens, you would have no problem screwing this into a 50mm lens which has 58mm filter threads or use an adapter ring.
The rear element is quite small. The camera lens' front element needs to be the same size or smaller, else you'll get the vignetting Ph.Holland's had with the 100mm.
An f/3.5 0r f/4 100mm ought to be okay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=130316439314
Leo,
Is this lens as same as Nico's model? Or as same as that early model Iscorama attachment?
Chris
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I would say that you won't be shooting with anything wider than that particular 50mm on it. I get heavy vignetting even with a 100mm lens wedged behind it.
100mm? I thought it would be wider than 50mm?? How can you have heavy vignetting with a 100mm lens? Did you try other focal lengths between 50mm and 100mm? Or longer than 100mm?
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hmmm,
yeh seems pretty arbitrary ...
I agree. There isn't consensus from that reduser thread. That danish poster seems too sure.
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These offers on ebay are really pricey!
Take a look:
http://forum.mflenses.com/isco-goettingen-...-m42-t4951.html
160€ + shipping...
Nico,
How much did you pay for your Iscorama lens?
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The Iscorama like other anamorhic attachments is afocal.
It screws into the prime lenses. the widest 24x36mm format lens it can be used with is 45mm or 50mm.
How?
More questions...
Is it possible to attach any prime lens above a 45mm or 50mm?
Once the 5D MII records a squeezed 1920x1080 1.5x image, when you de-squeeze in post, what's exactly the resolution you will (better) get? Upsampling horizontally above 1920?
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Too modern for me -- did they really have track lighting and cans in the '30s? I'd take Vienna -- pre-anschluss of course.
-- J.S.
Abject equation.
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Hi, this is my first post, hopefully this may be interesting in the case of 5D Mark2 frame rate conversion.
To 1:1 downconvert 30p to 24p/25p the best is to use a software that uses warping. This retiming software will analyse the motion in the movie clip and then blend the frames using the generated motion vectors. It so creates the inbetween frames that are missing without the double or ghosting images that scare the hell out of every broadcaster/filmmaker. There are a couple of these retiming plug-ins for FCP or AE.
What's the best in your opinion?
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Yes, opinions much appreciated?
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The big problem is how do you fake the missing information? If you want 24, the best thing to do is shoot 24.
-- J.S.
I have found these methods.
http://cinema5d.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&...=a&start=10
http://cinema5d.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=389
http://cinema5d.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=73
http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/canon-eos-5d-mk...-you-judge.html
Thoughts?
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If you want a 24 fps look, shoot at 24 fps. Don't try and get too clever. What could look more like motion sampled 24 times a second than sampling motion 24 times a second?
If you match the shutter angle of a film camera, usually 180 degrees (i.e. half closed / closed 50% of the time) which means a shutter time of 1/48th at 24 fps, then you should get fairly close to the same look on the RED camera. A digital electronic shutter will never be 100% like a spinning mechanical shutter, but it's close enough.
The strobing is just endemic to 24 fps photography -- it's a fairly low number of samples over time to capture motion smoothly. 24 fps film has the same strobing issues.
If you are seeing something bizarre or unusual, then it's probably not due to shooting the RED at 24P with a 1/48th shutter, it's something wrong in how it's been posted or how it is being viewed.
A film camera shutter is a spinning circular disk rotating in front of the aperture with a pie slice opening to expose the film. A 180 degree shutter is a half-circle.
What do you think about a 30p cinematography? Canon 5D MK2, for example? Converting later to 24 fps.
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Thank you. In PAL, avoiding the flicker, what would the recommendable shutter speed be?
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They also have a frame rate converter, Twixtor... Any previous experience with it?
Product's link:
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Hi Chris,
Sorry for being a little late in replying -- I must be too involved in merrymaking. Motion blur is a complicated subject. At the cinematography level it is sufficient to know that a larger exposure time will result in more motion blurr. However, at the signal processing level there exist algorithms that try to eliminate/control/reshape motion blur without assuming much apriori knowledge, that work sometimes, but of course, not all of the times.
No problem, thank you.
What do you think about this product?
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Won't go into motion blurr issues in this post.
Would you?
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I hope that you don't see any flicker at 1/45. In theory, there should be a little, but in practise you might have to try.
No camera yet. Would you prefer a slower/longer shutter speed? As for instance?
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Seems 1/50 is anything between two internal parameters, an electronic shutter speed emulation parameter and some kind of darkening parameter, and perhaps the auto program adjusts that latter darkening parameter for fine-tuning but not the internal shutter speed parameter, the actual shutter speed is identical at the reported speeds of 40 and 50. If you shoot mainly on a 50, that will be about 1/45. Do you think as acceptable for avoiding the flicker?
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And 30p for further 24fps conversion?
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If the digital camera is a rolling shutter one, then, unlike a film camera, framerate has no effect on flicker if exposure time is matched to line frequency. Okay, framerate does have an effect on the phase of the flicker, however, the amplitude of the flicker is controlled by exposure time, and when amplitude is made to go to zero by selecting appropriate exposure times (n/(2 * line frequency), where n = 1, 2, ...) then the dependency on the framerate is removed.
Do you mean we can avoid the flicker just with the shutter speed? Lower than 1/50 second?
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Usually it would be 1/50th for 50 Hz lighting. But you can also dial it in using ClearScan.
Is there ClearScan?
Epic and Scarlet release in 2010
in Red
Posted · Edited by Chris Gloag
Is this an attack? :)