Don Brown

In February of this year, I was shooting on 16mm negative film for the very first time and I have just received the film back from the lab today. Though when i opened the film can, I was surprised to see that the film was tightly wound around a core. I was expecting the film to be returned on it's daylight loading spool as with reversal films. Is this normal for negative film to come back this way? And what is the core used for? For one thing, it seems inconvenient to view the film - I wanted to take a look at several frames to check the exposure and registration but I'm worried that if i remove the film from the can, it may unwind everywhere as there is nothing to 'hold it in place.'

A core is normal if you where projecting it you would use spit spools or on a flat bed editor the core fits straight on.

Regards

Don

I posted the pin connections yesterday on another thread.

Thankyou Clive I have the connections which I got from Andrew Alden many years ago I am having trouble with clap relays on the one with 7 pin

Regards

Don

Does anybody have a circuit for the MST motor I have two one with 7 pin and one with 6 pin tuchel plugs

Regards

Don

Hi i´m looking a user manual of this accesory (AATON ORIGIN C)

I have one i don´t know nothing about this gadget, someone can help me?

thanks a lot

Go on their site and download this PDF

http://www.aaton.com/products/accessories/origin/

Regards

Don

Hi, I'm on doubt.

 

I want to shoot on film. The thing is my budget is low, around U$S 300. I want the best quality as possible and the best camera I can get my hands on. I was thinking of a Krasnogorsk 3, cheap, 16mm, simple, but I've read some complaints about it. Like, the film is going to get scratched if it doesn't come straight from Russia, and that the fps are irregular because it doesn't have a sync motor. On the other hand, I can get my hands on a super 8 camera. I can get a Nikon R10 easily, but the thing that makes me feel uncomfortable is the idea that super 8 is worse quality than 16mm. I wanted to ask, how worse? What camera should I get? I've seen Bell & Howell 16mm cameras on Ebay... are they better than the Krasnogorsk 3? Do they share the same issue with the variable fps with their motor? Are they quieter?

I will apreciate all details you can give me! Thank to you all. :)

PD: Can you tell what kind of camera is Stanley using?

Stanley also used the IIC in a Cine 60 fibreglass blimp

Don

Boston UK

I got a non-sync s16 camera. ( an a-cam )

Its great etc.

But Im going to shoot a pop-clip, and needs TC ( SMTPE ) on the film.

The idea is to rent a plate/scriptboy with visual TC on it.

Any good ideas, how to save money etc..

( can you build one your self? can you buy a very cheap one, and not rent...?)

The idea is to play the music from tape With TC and the point the cam to the plate on all starts/stops..

still there might be som sync problems, since theres absolut NO sync on this cam, but thats expected...

Tom

Is this the Ikonoskop A Cam you are using if so it runs at sync speed

I'm unable to get anything from the link. Just a black screen with a title...nothing to select??

Looks great to me are you running Quicktime

Great video James I have worked on some big ones in my time and with the gear you had at your disposal

you have produced a cracker

Don

Sound Mixer/Video Assist and collector of Camera's

Boston Lincs

Greetings.

 

I have some Bolex camera accessories --- I just have no idea what they are. Any help putting an I.D. and description to these items would be much appreciated. Thank you.

Pic 3 are sync marker bulbs and bits for MST motor

Don

I would start with eBay. These are/were quite common and should be much cheaper than new.

My Peleng came with 2 mount adaptors, 1 M42 and 1 that goes on my Nikon mount have bought most of mine from Ebay about £20

Don

this guy might have some answers for http://www.ijmincorporated.com

I am thinking about gettinga Beaulieu, do you like yours?

This company say that they can crystal most cameras as you can see by their list

http://users.aol.com/fmgp/sync8.htm

Regards

Don

Boston UK

[Hi

It's a long time since I touched a 16BL, when I worked for Samuelson Film Service

London there are 2 types of motor that go on the BL but you can only attach the sync controllers to the BLE type if you go to the Tobin site you will see what bits you need. The Audio Eng and the Jensen are just external sync boxes that control the motor failing that you can use a sync cable from the back of the camera.

http://www.tobincinemasystems.com/page13.html

Regards

Don

Hi Greg

I will give it a go and let you know how it went,

Regards

 

Don

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Greg

Have found problem have stripped down front of camera asper www.k3camera.com and can see that the ground glass assy has a problem where the two 45 deg blocks must have seperated if you squeeze the two together it goes

so a new ground glass assy needed if I can get one.

Regards

Don

Hi Don,

 

Did you clean the ground glass?  It's a small piece of plastic, just behind and above the shutter.  Remove the lens, it's easy to get to.  Take a q-tip or lens cloth and clean with lens cleaner or rubbing alcohol.  If you use a q-tip it may take a while to get all the little fibers off, but with a little patience it will come clean. Hope this does the trick.  You can also clean the mirror shutter while you're in there, just be delicate with both mirrors and don't apply too much pressure while cleaning.  Some shutters were not polished very well from the factory, not much you can do about that.  I just performed all the above maintenance to my own K3 and all is clean and bright in the viewfinder.  Good Luck.  Let me know how it goes.

 

Greg

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Greg

I will give it a go and let you know how it went,

Regards

Don

Hi

Can anybody help, looking through my K-3 viewfinder I have a black shadow at the bottom of frame on checking it seems to be the mirror shutter is this normal with the K-3

Regards

Don