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James Neihouse

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Posts posted by James Neihouse

  1. I just did something similar to what Chris described - 3 1'x1' mirrors attached to a 3-sided plywood box. Primary red & blue gels on the mirrors. A hole drilled in the bottom of the box, fitten with a PVC pipe sleeve, sitting on a c-stand with the arm removed. We set the mirror box as close as we could get it to a 400W joker without it hitting the barndoors, and had a pair of hands to spin the mirrors on cue.

     

    I've just recently seen this done as well, it works really great, in fact it's the best I've seen and I've tried this with all of the above mentioned techniques.

     

    Good luck,

     

    JN

  2. I'm doing a Master's Thesis paper on the techniques of creating the illusion of 3D in a 2D image done with one camera the traditional way, and I would love to hear opinions from some professionals? Below is a list of topics I'm going to cover. Let me know if I'm missing a topic.

     

    Separation
,background light
,backlight
,Optical Flares,Classic 3 point lighting,Depth of Field,lenses,Composition,Texture,Quality of Light,Focus,Ambient Smoke,Color,Movement,Resolution,Special FX
,Flat Imagery
:what makes a flat image,poor lighting
,senor size: 5D and GoPro

     

    ~Chris Saul

    www.chrissaul.com

    Art Center College, Pasadena CA

     

    Don't really know why you would be including specific camera types in this, maybe include them in the depth of field discussion for the sensor size.

     

    If you haven't seen "Citizen Kane", go now, rent it, watch it, see a film print on the big screen if at all possible. It's probably the best "3d" movie ever shot in 2D.

     

    Motion parallax is one of the most telling of the 2D depth cues, seeing the relationship of objects change as the camera moves is very powerful. Occlusions and interposition, one object in front of another is another 2D depth cue. Motion, the apparent speed of an object at a distance seems slower than the same object at the same speed when it's close at hand. Geometric perspective is one you're missing as well as texture gradient, and relative size. I'm assuming by the term Ambient Smoke you are meaning aerial perspective, the haziness you see at a great distance.

     

    Hope this helps, be glad to try to clarify anything for you. Feel free to get in touch if you want.

     

    neihouse@1570films.com www.1570films.com

     

    Cheers and good luck,

     

    JN

  3. the issue is getting two filters that match, if you are putting a separate filter on each camera. I can't imagine doing that with anything other than neutral density or correction filters. I have always hated putting anything between the back of the lens and the image plane. For the IMAX 3D dual strip camera we had custom built 14"x14" filters made, along with a really big matte box. That way we can use ND grads, with a single filter for both lenses. I would think putting any sort of diffusion on the lenses for 3D would be very counter productive.

  4. James, what an honor to have you on here!

     

     

    I agree, it's better to shoot a movie on 5-perf. maybe even the whole movie, and then blow up rather than shoot half on 35mm 4-perf. scope and the other half on 65mm 15-perf.

     

    I never had the opportunity to see "Dark Knight" in 35mm, but others I know who did see it couldn't really see the improvement in quality from the IMAX shots, maybe marginally, but it was a great waste for the most part.

     

    I'd rather see 3x as much 5-perf. shooting in the movie than using so much scope.

     

     

     

    BTW, I'd like your opinion on this: What do you think about projecting IMAX films on OMNIMAX screens? I told a friend that the only difference was the curved screen and a wide-angle projection lens.

     

    Is there any solution, in your opinion, to having an OMNIMAX screen and showing IMAX films, like a longer lens projected in the middle of the IMAX screen, or a separate screen that rolls up in front of the dome or something?

     

    A lot of OMNIMAX locations never envisioned the possibility of 35mm blowups to IMAX becoming so popular and, as such, weren't prepared for this possibility when they built their theatres.

     

     

    I think IMAX and 4K the next big thing in quality after people get over 3D and figure out that XD (and Regal, AMC, Carmike) theatre equivalents are the same shitty 2K image blown up on a bigger screen.

     

     

    Ultimately, people need to be shown something better in the theatre than what they can pirate on their PCs at home. . . .

     

     

    Projecting films that were shot for a flat screen on to a dome screen tends to produce some very interesting effects. I remember watching some rushes from the Michael Jordan film on a dome screen. Some of the shots were almost laughable, one in particular was a head to toe shot of MJ shoot a basket. He was center frame the goat was on the left side of frame. It looked as though the goal was less than a quarter his height and about 100' away. The dome likes to have things centered, and low in frame. When you start getting toward the edges the distortion starts really kicking in, and anything at the top of the frame is way above the audiences' heads, almost impossible to see. Tilt up reveals are almost impossible to pull off since your subject is coming in the top of the frame.

     

    If you project with a longer lens on the center of the dome you are throwing away a large part of the screen and you may as well see it on a smaller flat screen.

     

    Films shot for the dome look great on the doomed screens, but it's tough to get something shot for "flat" screen to look good on a dome unless you really know what you're doing. We used to double shoot on shots that we knew would be troublesome for the dome, we have also done some shrinks to bring things into the center a little more when there was no other alternative.

     

    The 35mm blow ups are a totally different animal all together. None of them are shot with a big screen in mind, much less a giant dome screen. None of them use the full flat screen just because they would have to throw out the sides of the image due to aspect ratio issues.

     

    Hope this answers your questions, sorry for not getting back on this quicker.

     

    James Neihouse

  5. Someone I know (it's not me - honest!) is arranging a screening of some 3D shorts in a 3D equipped cinema. Nice idea, but already he's sold seats in the front row, which I don't think is a good idea. But I'm not sure. He's also planning on projecting stuff made for a flat screen TV.

     

    I think this could be a problem. Thoughts?

     

    A very bad idea indeed! If these shorts were made for the TV market there will be some big issues when projected on a large screen. Unless the material has been re-converged for the larger screen there is going to be some major problems especially for the poor souls in the front row! This is why Cameron made about 15 versions of Avitar, for different screen sizes.

  6. Element Technica

    Tango

    Swiss rig

    3reality

    Pace

    Hines Lab(Stereocam)

    P+S technik

    Paradise

    Stereotec

    Movie Engineering(prototype)Soon at NAB

     

    The question should not be what rigs are out there, it should be which ones are worth working with. Buyer, or renter beware! Lot's of "snake oil" out there these days!

  7. Well, there are always slight differences between lenses.

     

    Let me refer you to the section on zoom lenses in Bernard Mendiburu's book 3D Movie Making http://bit.ly/Zoom3D

     

    If you're a steadicam operator then loading up your rig with two zooms would be a bit ridiculous. But I was wondering what other stereographers here thought about this..?

     

    Zoom lenses add too many variables to the already complicated 3D equation. Any miss-match between the lenses focal lengths causes undue eyestrain in the viewer. For the best 3D, everything should match!

     

    The primary reason for using zoom lenses on beam-splitter rigs is the reduction in lens change over time. Some of the beam-splitter rigs I have worked with take quite a long time to change lenses, so zooms are the easy answer. When choosing a rig always take into consideration the time required to switch lenses.

     

    Most serious stereographers will tell you that you should never zoom in a shot, because zoom lenses do not track perfectly. One lens may deviate left and up while the other is deviating right and down. This is due to the complexity of the lens mechanical system that is need to move the optics facilitating the zoom.

     

    Most all of the optical mismatch problems can be fixed in post, if you have the time and budget, but what if you're going out live?

     

    James Neihouse

    Director of Photography

    IMAX Hubble 3D

  8. When I was a kid 65mm was a mainstream format at least for Epic films. Nowadays you are considered off the wall and overkill for even suggesting that a movie should be filmed using 65mm. I hope with the advent of 4K digital projection that 65mm film aquisition will one day again become the mainstream format. The problem is that most Cinematographers feel that they are elitists just because they prefer film over video but I think it takes a lot more effort to be a true elitist. If any format is overkill it is the IMAX format which I think caused a lot of Cinematographers to become so discouraged by the costs that they just gave up on trying to shoot with 65mm film.

     

    IMAX 15 perf. 65mm is only over kill if you are projecting on a conventional sized movie screen, you know the small 40' - 50' wide ones. You are actually throwing away a large part of the image as well if you are not projecting in 1.34:1, for 2.35 you are better off shooting 5 perf 65mm, which is what I believe they did for Shutter Island. For your reference a true IMAX sized frame is approximately 12K (11,734 x 8,772)

     

    James Neihouse

    Director of Photography

    IMAX HUBBLE 3D

  9. Hi Scott, I'm just trying to update myself as it's been a few years since I was behind a 3D camera. I'm currently looking to find the best image quality in the most compact camera system. I have experience using the Panavision/Sony 3D camera - seven years ago I used that system on a 3D Imax shoot "Ghosts of the Abyss" and that was a relatively large system with cables everywhere.

     

    A few producers are asking for equipment quotes to shoot in 3D and I'm hoping to find some info in these forums. I feel that I'm in the right place for that.

     

    Pieter,

     

    Have a look at the Phantom 65 with their cinemags. They will give you 4K with on-board recording of their raw data. They can be synced together. Put them on a rig and you have a (relatively) small, self-contained system, with good adjustment capabilities.

     

    Good luck,

     

    James Neihouse

    Director of Photography

    HUBBLE 3D

  10. I'm trying to find out what equipment manufacturers are out there with 3D rigs. Coming to my mind right now is:

     

    Pace

    Element Technica

    21st Century 3D

     

    Any other suggestions for camera rigs? I now there are lots of other involved companies (3Play, Cineform, etc) in other areas.

     

    ~Marque

     

    I saw a demo of the Swiss Rig last week, looked pretty simple to setup/use. http://www.swissrig.com/.

     

    James Neihouse

    Director of Photography

    IMAX Hubble 3D

  11. I had a Q&A w/ Brian Hubbard the other day and he was asked about how he pulled focus on Archangel, a trailer for a feature shot in 3D on a P+S Technik rig and he kinda glanced over the question by saying with 2 wireless remote systems. I was wondering if anyone has experience with this if you can hook up 2 FF units to one Reciever to get the focus exactly correct on both lenses with both pulls being exactly the same. It seems like quite the feat to do this with 2 people.

     

     

    I would think it would be easy with a couple of wireless systems (Prestons?) with two receivers on a single frequency and one transmitter. Both receivers receive the same info via the wireless. The issue is matching the lenses, so they are in focus at the same place. This would be a mechanical issue with the focus mechanisms (helicals) traveling the same distances in order to get both lenses to the same distance.

     

    James Neihouse

    Director of Photography

    IMAX Hubble 3D

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