Isaac Brooks

Brian, Thanks very much. I'm doing some doc work but am also planning a narrative feature that will most likely be shot with the XTR. Really what I'm hoping for is something that can handle most detailed / smooth shots, and not buckle under the prod and its accessories. It would be nice to have something light, another reason for the Sachtler. Isaac

Hello, I am shooting something on an Aaton XTR Prod, and am looking for a good general purpose support system for it. I was looking at the Sachtler video 20 line (the 20P?), but have heard that it is sometimes considered a notch beneath what's needed for film work, and that the 25's are better suited to bear a super 16 system. I am looking to get it used and the 25 have not been showing up as frequently. Unfortunately too, some of the O'Connor heads that have been recommended are a bit above what we are are able to spend. We are hoping to get the head and legs used for $5000 or under. If anyone can attest to using the Sachtler video 18 or 20 with success in this area, then I'd be interested to know more about that, or to hear other recommendations. Thanks very much, Isaac

Thanks Dom, Yeah, I just got home after having the battery pack charging for a few hours, and everything runs fine, no problems. As the rules of the Arri are described, the camera should not run at all if the voltage is too low, right? Yeah, this might be one for the service team. Do you know how big of an operation the feedback circuits (or whatever else responds to low voltage) would be to fix / replace? In any case, I'll probably send it out. Thanks, Isaac

Hello, Has anyone experienced a very strange sound from an SRll during the end of a battery? It's this sound that resembles a not-so-silent wining, and in addition to this, the test button yielded a super fast frame rate (no film was loaded)... Pretty sure it has to do with the battery as the ARRI green light and the CINEMA ELECTRONICS plate both indicated so... Is this a common thing to happen or is the camera suffering in some way? Thanks very much, Isaac

Thanks guys. So Dom, 12V should do it as far as belts are concerned, the amp hours will indicate the longevity of power? I'm looking at simple Bescor belts that are 12V and are at about 14.5 amp hours... Isaac

Hello, I'm looking to purchase two to three onboard batteries for an Arri SRll, plus a charger. I'm willing to talk about purchasing ones that need recelling, if that is reflected in the price. In any case, they don't have to be spanking new. Thanks, Isaac Brooks U Wisconsin

Hello, I am using an Arri SRll I borrowed from a friend, but I don't have a power supply for it. Can anyone recommend a battery belt, along with the electronic specifications needed for the SRll, that would be reliable, and not work in the electronics? I know I should be looking for 12V sources, but are there any other requirements that I should keep in mind in order to not strain the camera, it's motor and electronics? Thanks, Isaac Brooks

Hi, Does anyone know is the c-mount Schneider 10mm 1.8 Cinegon will cover Super 16 on a Bolex H-16? I've heard that it will from a few sources, but I thought I'd seek opinions from anyone out there who knows. Thank you, Isaac Read more: http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=49267#ixzz17FbC9oGy

Hi, Does anyone know is the c-mount Schneider 10mm 1.8 Cinegon will cover Super 16 on a Bolex H-16? I've heard that it will from a few sources, but I thought I'd seek opinions from anyone out there who knows. Thank you, Isaac

Hi Jean-Louis, The scratch is not deep, it looks as though the finish on the plate has been irritated. It all got started when I was trying to get rid of some emulsion w/ the orangewood stick. At first I thought the scratch was just this stuff getting spread around, but it looks like the plate is a little scratched. Thoughts? Isaac

The aperture plate is the piece that essentially has the gate cut into it and which faces the pressure pad - the pressure pad is fine so far and is scratch free.

Hi, I have a new SBM factory-coverted Super 16 body. I've discovered that the aperture plate on these new cameras is black and not as scratch-free as the older ones (with the lighter shade of color). In fact, just from cleaning with an orangewood stick, it got roughed up. Anyone feel the same about this? Does anyone know if this might yield abrasions on the film itself? It seems unlikely to me, as it took so little to scratch it. About to shoot some stock for a Spirit Scan - so I suppose testing this would be a good idea. Opinions about this are very welcome though. Thanks! Isaac

Hi, I have a new SBM factory-coverted Super 16 body. I've discovered that the aperture plate on these new cameras is black and not as scratch-free as the older ones (with the lighter shade of color). In fact, just from cleaning with an orangewood stick, it got roughed up. Anyone feel the same about this? Does anyone know if this might yield abrasions on the film itself? It seems unlikely to me, as it took so little to scratch it. About to shoot some stock for a Spirit Scan - so I suppose testing this would be a good idea. Opinions about this are very welcome though. Thanks! Isaac

Hi, I was about to test-roll the new Bolex camera, and the side release of the unit was suddenly caught, very solidly, in the single-frame release position. I pushed a few times, quit hard, to see if it would just move. It didn't. I then remembered instances of this in the past, and I wound the camera a little, and through pushing forward and backward, it finally released. What is the connection there? Is everything OK? I remember once someone used the analogy of a Bolex being like a car as it needs time to work itself through, so I'm really not worried, I'm just hoping that by pushing on it like that I couldn't have damaged anything. Does the drive become locked slightly sometimes hence locking the release? Thanks so much for your help, Isaac

Hello, I have two models of the SBM, both very recent, one is the classic chrome model and the other is a black, hammerite Super 16 model, which I just purchased. The new camera is great, but the bayonet mount seems a little loose when loosened, if that makes sense. It has some give to it and even lifts up (the camera's hammerite-painted front does move not of course) Is this OK? Is it just a sign of a newer mount? The slightly older SBM has a mount that takes more strength to turn and does not move around so much when loosened. I know that to really see the difference, you have to see the cameras, but I'd appreciate it if you could share any ideas you have. I'm assuming that it is fine, I'm just curious, as I have spent good money for this body. Thanks! Isaac

Bryce, Cine Lab in Fall River, MA has a 200 ft minimum for color negative. processing and maybe like a $75 minimum for transfer, but has good quality HD transfers for about $ .27 per foot. Good telecine options in HD will always run you money, but Cine will do a good job for this sort preliminary work. Hope this is of help, Isaac

Hi, I have a recent Bolex SBM that is Super 16 converted, making its pressure pad wider and hence a little more tricky to remove. Is it Ok that it slides against the rail to the left of the gate while I get it out, and what sort of wear should I look for of as I use it more and more? Thanks! Isaac