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James Harris Sr

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Posts posted by James Harris Sr

  1. Running double-perf film through single-perf equipment is not normally a problem - the exception to this is with optical sound projectors, because the second set of perfs is located where the soundtrack would be on single-perf film. No actual damage to film or projector - just be sure to turn down the amplifier.

     

    However, running single-perf film through equipment built only for double-perf film will cause severe damage to the film, and potentially also to the equipment, as there is no second row of perforations for the second set of sprockets to engage into, thereby causing the film to jam.

     

    Wish I could help you with the Viewer manual, I use a Zeiss Moviscop viewer which is somewhat different. It appears from the photos that the film is laid in emulsion side down, and then the upper piece snaps down on it to hold it in place. The silver knobs are unlabelled, but I'll go with one as the focus knob, and the other as the on/off switch for the lamp [assuming there isn't one on the back of the unit]. The triangle-shaped piece of chrome will most likely be the frame marker [punches a small hole in the film to mark frames for editing purposes] - don't use this, as it damages the film. If you need to mark frames use a white or yellow china marker [available from art stores]. The other small chrome lever is likely to be the framer - or it could be the focus control, in which case a silver knob would be the framer!

     

    Your photo does not show if you have a set of rewinds to use with the viewer. If you have no idea what I am talking about, then I'll bet you don't have them. Google "film rewinds" for more info.

     

     

    FIRST OF THANKS AGAIN.

     

    Term "emulsion side down" means the shinny side if I remember correctly.

     

    I have a set of rewinds and I have done several reels of 8mm already. I was lucky enough to find a portable hot splicer, 8mm 16mm splicer that appears almost new it looks like it was just removed from a new box.

    It is a Maier-Hancock Model 816 16-8mm It works very well and I did a lot of practice film before spliceing any film.

     

    I have several other questions.......

     

    My film is all kodak film, what type of film is kodak for choice of glue and leader Etc? or does it make no difference ?

     

    I noticed suppliers list different types of leader composition.

     

    Is the black leader ok to use for leader for all my reels?

     

    I have a motorized DUAL 8mm/super8mm viewer exactly like the viewer I have been using, I can modify the parts viewer by machineing some parts (Ihave a lathe and milling machine) adapting it to this viewer (Minette)

    I bought it for a parts unit for my viewer I have been useing, and when this project film editing prep for digitizing is complete I will most likely sell all the viewers splicer etc. You can feed the film through the viewer very slow frame by frame or speed it up to a projector speed. I see no reason why it cannot work the same on 16mm viewer.

     

    My skills come from my years as a scratch model builder about 50 years. I have machined and built my own engines when we was pylon raceing with R/C models

     

    Well I am rambling so I will get out of here for now.

     

    Oldman Jim

  2. Be very sure that your viewer does not put any extra scratches on the films. The best way to test for this is to use black leader, splice up into a loop and run it through several times. Look for scratches by shining a light at an angle to the surface of the film - and check both sides! Black leader can hopefully still be bought, but you can make your own by light-fogging some black & white 16mm film and then processing out. I am very glad to see that you resisted the temptation to view the films by projecting them - an almost guarantee of scratches and damage if not done correctly on well-maintained equipment.

     

    One more point - I am assuming from the age of these films that they are most likely to be double-perf [that is, have perforations on both sides], but the later ones [after about 1955] may be single-perf. The issue here is that if you buy any older equipment [viewer, splicer, projector] that was built when only double-perf 16mm film was made, you will not be able to use it with the single-perf films.

     

    Good luck with this project, preserving home movies for future generations is extremely important.

     

    Alan Duckworth

     

     

     

     

    You guys are a wealth of information for person with no knowledge in this film world.

     

    Now put me in the digital world and I do above average produceing video for this family history production I am making.

    I am 72 years old and not in the best of health. I traced my family history back to 1700's in England and want to set down what I know to record and started this project.

    When a generation dies a ton of information history etc is lost forever.

    This 16mm and 8mm and super8mm is important parts of this older history.

     

     

    I have double checked the 16mm film and it is all double perf if I understand the term correctly means film has holes on both edges for the film to track on the projectors sprocket

    I found a source for black leader and will ordered it Monday.

     

    I sure hope somebody out there reads this and knows of a instruction manual.

     

    Reposting my email contact....... jassr39@gmail.com

     

    Again thanks to you folks that have answered my plea

    post-52080-0-87391000-1305429507.jpg

  3. Thanks for the info.

     

    I just purchased the viewer and have not gotten delivery as of today !

     

    From looking at the photos the film rollers and other controls appear to be more than simple.

     

    What control does what and etc I guess finding a manual even a Zerox would be next to impossible which is why I am here.

     

    My observation from all the searching I have done this unit is much desired for a desktop portable.

     

    I bought this to edit and view a hugh box of 16mm film that I had professionly cleaned and made ready to be digitized.

    This film is dated back to the 1940's through 1960 by a deceased Inlaw it has footage not able to be replace at any cost,

    So I really need to be very carefull and not damage the film.

    I bought some practice film to learn with.

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