steve waschka

im a negative process photographer. my roots are in black and white stills. i want to process at the house for control. it uses less solutions. lower cost. just gonna reverse them in DI anyways so why use so many solutions and risk chem irregularities etc. however. there is no 7222 for double 8mm cameras. i love using a bolex h8r5. but these negatives have got to get better. i realize i am adding grain by processing neg. so heres where im at: 7266 is 200d. 1 stop for shooting for neg process means its 100d chems stabilized at 73 so take off 1.5 develop min for temp this has yielded too much grain still. so.. i want to try pulling. kodak says 1 for 1. overexpose a stop and under process a stop. how far have you pulled and been happy with the results? how much stop did you adjust in exposure vs time in the tank? greatly appreciated. closing in on time to shoot. burning through test film. let me add that i am using a rewind tank (newer morse) wouldnt mind a spiral but i shoot 100fts for home process. currently that has meant 9.5 mins of d76 with alkalai.

I had tunnel vision because i come across your post when am researching reversal developing. Sorry. I thought you meant tmax direct positive developer. Tmax negative developer is good stuff. I use it just not in the morse. I just use d76 plus alkalai because thats what kodak recommends for a rewind tank. Which i use morse. Only because i havent had problems with it and i havent had the opportunity to buy a jobo that will hold 100ft. Im really sorry about that. Tmax will prob work great. It works on every black and white still neg ive ever shold. Ilford fuji kodak all of them. As for a grain comparisoon. I dont know. Its pretty close to the others.

one more note incase you check back and use this info to produce negs. those tank times i posted are for chem temps in the lower range. watch you time adjustment for higher temps. i figured out i was overcooking the tmax kit. dont misunderstand, that didnt help. but i dont want you to hold me to those times above for your negs. those are chem temps in the mids 60's with 100ft rolls. its like a 1/3 to 1/2 sec drop for every increased degree of chem temp. check your film and developer lit. its in there.

i have finally had the opportunity to use the t-max kit on a few rolls of 7265 and 7266. they are all in the trash. im going to stick with negatives for now. just cant seem to get it right in a morse tank. dont think the tank matters. i get bad results with both 25ft rolls which are only 40 turns (similar chem exposure to static spiral tanks)and 100ft rolls which are 120 turns of the crank. add time dont add time. reuse bleach use new bleach. all looks bad. im clearly doing something wrong but i just cant keep trying to learn new tricks. the problem is its just terrible. plus its got little problems like artifacts in the shadows, wierd blotchy chemical artifacts. just doesnt look like if i nailed the processing, the image would ever look professional. i would suggest if you want good positive camera prints you go to an older kodak formula as described in 7266 and 7265 literature. me? sticking to camera negs. if i burn some really awesome anamorphics i want to project, ill get lab positives made.

i can respond to the use of the morse g3. it is a good tank. i use it exclusively for 8 and 16. you will probably want to cut your arm off after doing 100' in a reversal process. the only drawback to the morse is it requires you to constantly wind. and for longer times than a static spiral tank. ie: 7 min times become 10.5 or 11 min. do that for neg and its not so bad. now add in all the steps for reversal and you'll wish you had a contact printer. the good news is it will produce perfectly good negatives. provided you are proficient in the darkroom. ie: watch your times, properly store chemicals, follow usage directions, understand conversion tables for bath time for use in a rewind tank vs lg tank vs hand tank, etc. to do neg its 11 min for D76 with alkali added, 3 min for stop, and i fix with hardening fixer till it looks right but prob at least 5min. all with fresh chems. or start adding time to each usage. mount the film ends tight. i fold and staple to create a small loop to go over the peg. and wind non stop. know how many turns ie: 30something for 25ft etc so you dont wind too tight and scratch the film against itself. btw you can get that neg scanned and reverse it in digital editing if you are publishing via web or burning to disc. my prob is i like anamorphics and projectors. have zero income producing use for that process at this time but it beats 16:9 hd every day of the week. as for the tmax kit im gonna watch the post and see what you get back. ill add in that ive heard it thins the negative. but the inet is full of what people have heard. im ready to order chems, ive got 4 rolls awaiting processing right now. i decided that i am adding too much grain by processing my 7266 and 7265 as neg and would like to just do reversal. thats the decision that keeps me from feeling bad about not wanting to pay for lab contacts, one lites, or my own JK.