Orlin S

http://www.ryanewalters.com/SP/sekonicprofiles.html

 

 

Scroll down to the profiles. Load Epic/ Scarlet settings it into you light meter. Job done.

Thx ! I'll check it !

Hi Adrian,

till now i've also been using light meter as a tool for creating correct lighting ratios or for the ability to recreate same light in different time or place, but now i'm looking for the ability to guess the right exposure or amount of light needed when on location scouting. I want to try getting more acurate when creating lighting design of the scene or the ability to use on set natural lighting sources. Anyway theres a lot of true in your post ! Today i plugged a calibrated monitor with waveform in to the camera, set the exposure same way i explained at the beginning and realised, yet it looks a bit underexposed the greycard was exactly at the 50 IRE (on the waveform) where it should be right ??? So to summarize, now when i took a reflection reading of a greycard with my sekonic and set the same f stop to my camera the greycard is exactly on 50 IRE, witch means it works correct i'm i right :) ? But thats all happening on Redcolor3 mode with Raw view turned off, when i turn raw view on it all goes wrong, including the waveform :). But what i understood from you is that i should stay with Raw view turned off when setting exposure right ?

Hi Alan,

Thank you for your answer. But at first place the problem was than when i took a reading with mached settings as u said i always got overexposed footage and i'm sure it was overexposed because it always left me like 2 or 3 stops before clipping, so i wanted to match and compensate on iso to get propper same f stop on the greycard.

Hey all,

I'm a film student and i just bought a used sekonic light meter 758d. I wanted to match it with the red scarlet i'm usually using for shooting. So i set up a 18% greycard and used false colors in Redcolor3 view to match the mid grey (green color on the card). Camera was set to 640 ISO, 25 fps, 1/50, f8. After i took a reflective reading with my sekonic i found that i should set it to 320 ISO, 25fps, 180 degree, to match the f8. Anyway after turning false colors off i found the image of the greycard way darker than i expected. I also tryed to expose a skin tone on the same lighting setup (on f 5,6 to get it properly exposed) and still seemed a bit underexposed. Then i decided to try matching the light meter in Raw view. After i got green on the card with false colours turned on i swithced back to Redcolor and i had much better feeling with the image. So my first question is, am i doing something wrong to match my sekonic or is there a better or more acurate way to do it ? Second, should i match it in raw view or redcolor3 when considering, that the clipping and crashing levels are the same in both modes ?

Sry for my english :)

Great! I'll go for the D version. Looks like it's just Cine sticker for 200 $ :)

Sure its not a combination manual ?

 

(too lazy to find it and check)

[L-758DR/758D]

The following Cine Speeds will be displayed:

2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, 16, 18, 24, 25, 30, 32, 36, 40, 48, 50, 60,

64, 72, 96, 120, 128, 150, 200, 240, 256, 300 and 360 f/s.

[L-758CINE]

The following Cine Speeds will be displayed:

1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24, 25, 30, 32, 36,

40, 48, 50, 60, 64, 72, 75, 90, 96, 100, 120, 125, 128,

150,180, 200, 240, 250, 256, 300, 360, 375, 500, 625,

750 and 1000 f/s.

I wasn't aware that it could either, can some one confirm this

Manual page 19! ;)

1/240 on a D will give you the same result as 180deg and 120fps on a cine yes

 

Not sure about "25 fps and 1/240 shutter speed On 758D version" - you cant enter 25fps on the D version, and that combo would imply a shutter angle smaller than 180deg...

Manual says, that u can enter these frame rates : 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 12, 16, 18, 24, 25, 30, 32, 36, 40, 48, 50, 60, 64, 72, 96, 120, 128, 150, 200, 240, 256, 300 and 360 f/s. But still I think that setting fps is not necessary when u enter the correct shutter speed.

Funny thing I just bought mine, I couldn't afford/not really wanting to fork out that much, I'm a Cinematographer and Photographer so I went for L-758D I find that It's best for both worlds, if you can afford the Cine then by all means get it, but you can defiantly be ahead by using the D or DR.

 

I apologize if this isn't what your asking but It sounds like you want to convert Shutter degree to shutter speed.

 

1/32 = 270

 

1/48 = 180

 

1/50 = 172.8

 

1/60 = 144

 

1/96 = 90

 

1/120 = 72

 

"(24 x 360) / Shutter Angle (i.e 8640 / xx where xx is xx degrees).

 

So the shutter speed for 144 degrees:

 

8640 / 144 = 60 (i.e 1/60th sec)"

Thx for the answer. I always try to keep the 180 degree when shooting, because of the motion, so i was curios if it's the same, when i enter for example 180 degree + 120 fps On 758 CINE version, and when i just put 25 fps and 1/240 shutter speed On 758D version. I should get the same result right ?

First, thank you very much for your response. Second, when I use the shutter speed, instead of FPS by simply typing the 2x fps value ( 25fps = 1/50....120fps = 1/240) i'll get the corect exposure for 180 degree right ?

I found the cine version extremely helpful and useful. if you can get it, go for the cine

Which functions of the cine do you find more useful ? I mean in practice.

Hi there,

I'm looking for a new light meter. I'm pretty sure that the Seconic 758 Cine, would be the best choice for me, but today i went to a used equip store and i found used sekonic 758D in a very good condition, for half it's retail price. So my question is, does it worth spending twice for the Cine version ?