Taylor Roesch

I have found the LiteMat 2L (v.2) to be extremely useful and versatile. They weigh nothing and have the output of a Kino 4X4 (shorter by 8" though). This one sounds like it would serve you the best.

The LiteMat 4 is a great tool as well. They can be assembled to make larger panels with ease. One of the TV shows I work on needed to glow an 8ft window that just had a brick wall behind it. Four them made that window (with shears) glow like it was day outside.

Great - thanks David! And I'm thinking of Jokers specifically. So you'd just put the scrim in between the lens and the barn doors?

Andre,

This is a constant problem with Joker fixtures. With how convex the lenses are, they take up most of the room for scrims. Also, constant contact with glass at those temperature can cause them to break (we broke 3 lenses on the show I just finished). You can fit a scrim behind the lens as well if taking off light can't be done any other way. Otherwise, ask a helpful grip to fix the problem for you. :)

If you are looking for cheap HMI alternatives, start by looking at high quality ballasts from Powergems and Power-to-light. They are a little bit cheaper than Arri and are recommended and sold by Gilbert at Galaxy Repair Service in LA. He's my go-to for HMI advice.

I'm on the east coast but I've tracked them down through Barbizon before. Give them a call and see if they have any.

Hope this helps.

Guy,

I love following the innovations and adaptations you come out with for our industry. Great work.

Best,

Taylor

I'm not sure about the Arri HMI PARs but you will definitely melt the reflector in any of the "M" series Arri lights. Those lights dissipate their hear through the top of the fixture. Arri says you shouldn't even cover them in rain hat. I don't know if it is the same for their PARs but the M18 can be made into a 1.2K PAR.

Hope this helps.