Rob Featherstone

I worked on a music video years ago. I was the loader but we had a "mesmerizer" It was an anamorphic element that was housed so it could spin thus creating distortion.

here's a thread about it.

http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=45517

That's a great visual solution.

The date on that article is April 1st!

I am selling my chrosziel 4 x 4 mattebox as well as my chrosziel follow focus.

On ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260714823893

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260714821192&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:US:1123

I hope they find a good home!

-Rob

I just had some files corrupt on my 7d CF cards. So I was missing the good old p2's!

A good 2 cents!

thanks!

Does anyone have an opinion on the longevity of the P2 format?

The ag af 100 will not record to P2 directly.

Do you think Panasonic will make a p2 version some day?

Are there limitations in the cmos chip that dictate not to go to p2?

hmm....

I guess so.

I have had it happen with a BPM or UV filter.

Maybe the front element was dusty?

Or had a flare on it?

-R

Do you have a filter on the lens?

Say a UV filter?

This kind of ghosting can happen when

the light bounces around between the lens and the filter.

-Rob

For various reasons I have to shoot a white cyc on location - in a warehouse.

I would love more than the 12 foot width set paper can offer me.

I am thinking of putting three set papers side by side and trying to light away the seams.

And relying on post to smooth it out.

Any other ideas?

I have used a 20 by green screen in the past but do not want to go that way this time.

Thanks!

Interesting!

So my choices (in an ntsc environment) are really only 24, 30 and 60 fps.

Thanks for the info

Has anyone shot 50fps in PAL and used it in a project where the bulk was 24 fps ntsc.

I love 48 fps and I am wondering if I can toggle between 50 fps PAL and 24 FPS ntsc.

Does PAL/ NTSC even matter when you are shooting 1080P h264 in the canon 7D?

Let's assume it's for a music video that will live primarily on You Tube.

Thanks!

My research was about 10 years ago so things are probably really different now!

-R

You'd get an exposure if the shutter were open at the time ...

 

Where did you get that exact '1/60th' figure from ??

 

'Power' output for flashes is often not determined by how bright they are but for the duration of the burst.

The think about strobes for still cameras is that they expose for exactly 1/60 th of a second you expose exactly 1 frame of film.

I shot a test on black and white reversal and when I looked at the clip there really was just one exact frame exposed by the flash.

I believe the options are to use "lightning strikes" or paparazzi flashers that available light in NY has. You can program the length of the exposure and

I believe you can either have someone randomly fire it or program a sequence.

The other option, which doesn't seem like it would work for you is to buy some vintage flash bulbs on ebay and fire them with an old camera (or sveral old cameras).

Because they are "analogue" they expose (over expose?) several frames.

thanks Ram:

That's great information.

Do you know if there is a way to record the usb feed. say at a different frame rate.

Like 6fps?

Thanks!

I heard that when you are recording, the HDMI-out only sends out 480P -- is that correct?

Yes. In fact on the Marshall monitor I used you only get a tiny image in the middle of the screen.

So Hal's idea to use the scalar seems like a good way to go.

TCS Film in NYC is going to provide me the black magic box for this next shoot.

Thanks everyone!

I was wondering if any one has any tricks for monitoring the 7D.

Last time I used the Marshall V-LCD651ST-HDMI and toggled between hdmi

while I was lighting and standard def to feed the client monitor while operating.

Any one have any fantastic solutions?

-Rob

I lit a fairly wide scene with paper lanterns.

We rigged two heavy stands and ran a climbing rope between them.

We then made a zip cord line that we clothes- pegged to the rope and dropped the lanterns from it.

We had to do a little rigging but it worked very well.

Hello:

I am selling some of my camera acecssories on ebay.

A micro force with oppenheimer handle

A media logic 5 digit speed control

a few tiffen 4 x 4 filters.

Everything has been in my personal kit for 10 years and is well maintained.

Here's my page on ebay

http://shop.ebay.com/7894rob/m.html?_nkw=&...p;_trksid=p3686

Maybe you can put them to work!!

Just heard from the producer.

Apparently it was a warranty fix on a known problem!

So still don't know what it was!

-Rob

Yes it was there after we imported the footage.

I was hoping it was a monitor issue but I think it was a chip issue!

We didn't try disconnecting the b&w finder, but we did disconnect the other monitors.

We had a Marshall on the camera and the 17" panasonic.

It wasn't an HMI or flouro kind of thing because it was a straight band right across the entire image.

It looked like the line you would get when shooting a crt on a film camera running at 29.97. Except fainter and wider.

I did think it was a shutter issue but changing the shutter didn't change it.

You know how it is when something goes wrong on a shoot! We probably weren't as scientific as possible.

When we found we could shoot at 60 fps and get a clean image we just went that route immediately.

I am guessing it's a processing or chip issue.

While On a recent shoot with a Panasonic hpx 500 we noticed a pale green band at the bottom of the frame.

It only appeared in 720 mode. When we switched to 1080i it disappeared.

it also moved as we changed frame rates.

At 48 fps it was the worst, widest.

At 32 fps it was smaller.

At 60 fps it was not present.

We detached all accessories and ran on battery, as well as "rebooted" the camera.

All to no avail.

Any ideas, thoughts? Thanks!

Some one asked for it via PM this morning so I guess it's gone.

If it doesn't go through I'll let you know.

-R

I have here a Nizo s 800 that used to work.

Maybe you can fix it.

It's a beautiful piece of glass - Schneider 1:1.8/ 7-80

The lens is perfectly clean/ no fungus/ scratches etc

If you want it. Just pay for shipping and I'll send it to you.

-Rob