Jean Gonzales

The new rainbox rgbx version have a DC plug build in. 12 to 24 volts

100watt frosted bulb and a dimmer

We have interns on almost every job. You have to learn it somewhere and there is no better way to learn it then hands on.

OT: That is one shitty rig!

We call them neon tube's. Can be fluorescent or led

Arri says 2.5 meters at the closest. With the use of some common sense you'll be fine.

-If anything starts to smoke/melt it is to close.

-If the make up of the talent is dripping of. You're to close

-If the talent can't keep his/hers eyes open. You're to close

You get it :D

For gel frames you can use heat shield

The way scrims work is how denser the pattern, the less light they let trough. So it doesn't matter if the paint is burned of or not.

Bring a circular polarization filter to cut reflections

Yeahh, no way.

Theyre awful. Dont do it.

What makes them so bad? I don't have access to them over here

What lights do you already own? If I was you I would base my purchase on that.

I personally only have experience with the L7. It's an OK fixture. I wouldn't say it has infinite color possibilities. It doesn't has a very wide color spectrum and it lacks saturation.

However, because it has a fresnel lens and it doesn't get hot, you can use it really close.

If you go with the L7 keep in mind you have to purchase the barn doors separately.

I bought one with the idea to use it on set.

I ended up using it in my house only.

Couple of reasons:

-They are bulky. A lot taller then a regular bulb. This results in not being able to fill are shade or something.

-You need a network. This means bringing a router with you.

-Power. They are not powerful.

No, unless for some reason you would use them in Low End Mode.

S-30, S-60 none of them turn off when you remove the diffuser. Have done this many times. Didn't get my hands yet on the S-120.

Sekonic C-700

This video is for the Arrimax, but it explains almost everything you need to know about the new features.

This problem could appear when loads are not equally divided over the phases.

Broncolor has their Para line. They are not cheap, but cheaper then Briese.

http://www.bron.ch/broncolor/products/para/

DMX is the way to go for this.

This is a photoshoot guys. I see a mix of Profoto and Broncolor. Probably just what the studio had available. Looking at the Para they spotted it all the way in through what I think is full grid cloth.

I have had the lense on the Arri m90 crack after running a few times. I herd others complain about this. Has any one experienced this with the Arri m90 fixture ? This for 6k/9k hmi

I never had this happen to me. What I always do is immediately close the barn doors when the lamp get turned off. Keeps the lens from cooling down to fast.

Looks like these ones

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/671466-REG/Eliminator_E_104_Dyno_Flash_Strobe_Light.html

Check out Matt Workman's breakdowns. Great video's.

http://www.cinematographydb.com/category/cinematography-database-show/

 

 

Thanks Tim. The difficultly and complexity is definitely not lost on me. This is why I'm absolutely fascinated with it!

 

There seems to be surprisingly little info out there for this type of thing too, as far as behind the scenes explanations of lighting and examples of the results, etc.

Here's some bts from a job past week.

Hope it helps!

To light up the glas:

2 skypanels through 1/1 diff camera right

To control reflections:

1 bbs area bounced into a overhead poly

bouncecard 45degree above mattebox

To light the background:

4 bank kino

We only have 2 pin sockets here in Norway, so I think they´re earthed in some other way, if they are tho. You may be right that they are not.

Haha, thanks for the heads up. Ill add it

The sockets in your country are side earthed. Same as in the Netherlands and Germany.

I guess if you baby them enough they will work. Do you have some electrical knowledge? First thing I would do when buying something like that is to check that everything is wired/grounded/fused correctly.