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siddharth diwan

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Posts posted by siddharth diwan

  1. 90% of what you need to study as a cinematographer is common to 16mm and 35mm. Lots of it is common to tape and digital too.

     

    If you just stick to what's in the course (wherever you are) you won't come out "trained" in anything. Well, you'll be trained, but not any real use to anyone. Yuo will still need experience, and you will get that by working on your own and other people's films outside of the course. That won't be restricted to any guage or format.

     

    And think about this . . . 35mm production is actually more expensive than 16mm. Just possibly that's why you find the courses are cheaper.

     

    Of course you could have said that Australia is renowned for its cinematographers, that it produces an astonishing number of great ones for ths size of the industry and/or its population, and that is why you really really really want to learn cinematography in Australia.

     

    But no, it's 'cos it's cheaper.

     

    Ah well!

    ;)

     

     

     

    So you are saying i should go for it because that's all i can afford ...fair enough .....thanks man

     

    more advice is welcomed

  2. I want to do some full time course in Cinematography and after a lot of research i have realised that the schools where i always dreamt to be which are in U.S are too expensive so the only and the cheapest option left is Australia so i need advice in that regard.

     

    All the courses offered there go deeply in 16mm and not 35mm and i want to be a 35mm Dp but then i think that its the technique which i have to learn the lighting, stocks, processes...... so does it matter 16 or 35.

     

    Please guys help me with this, is it worth sudying for 2yrs and then come out trained in 16mm and not ne able to do what i want to do that is 35mm....

    Thanks

  3. Always keep a small vacuum cleaner with you. Clean the film changing tent at a regular times. This way you'll avoid hair on the film.

     

    ALWAYS check the remaining of the roll after each take. This is very important. Say you have a important scene which involves great drama from the actors. You need to know how long the scene is and how many minutes are left on the roll.

     

    Write down the f-stop number of each scene. This is helpful for re-shoots.

     

    Remember to learn. Listen to the DP and the focus puller. Being a assistant is also about the learning process.

     

    And the most important, well almost, if you are unsure about ANYTHING, even the most simplest thing. Ask the focus puller or the DP. This way you'll cut down the chances of any mistakes.

     

    If there is a video assist on the set, this person will take care of the monitors.

     

    Good luck

     

     

    Thanks a lot this was an eye opener but i'm really nervous now......hope i do well

  4. thanks a lot guys u almost saved me from being dragged to the the court room.

     

    well i am a student but making this one for film festivals.

     

    what if we remix the song or put a lot of sound effects in between do i escape the copyright laws this way or i'm still in deep poop.....

     

    plus there is a sequence where the lead is listening to music on a discman and the music is leaking from the headphones, can i use popular music in that part or even that is not possible.

     

    thanks a lot

  5. i shot it on pal but used the frame rate mode that is 30p on canonxl1 and captured it on 25p settings, what do i do for the final output on a minidv what camera and settings do i opt for

  6. i need to put a lto of music in my film for which initially i had a budget to get it composed but some things went wrong n now i have to use popular music.

    what i need to know about is the copyright laws applicable incase of music.

     

    can i use music composed by other artists?

     

    how much duration can i use?

     

    remember where no money is involved.

     

    thanks a lot

  7. recently i shot a film on canonxl1 30p which i captured on avid with 25p settings now that the editing part is finished i want to take a dump on a dv but the problem i'm facing is that i dont get any output on the camera LCD, do i need to change my settings because i get output when i change it to 30i or do i need to hire a canon xl1 again to take the dump.

     

    can i use a canon xl2 for dump and use the frame rate mode to take the dump and take it as 24p will it make any differene, if yes would that be for good or not?.

     

    thanks a lot

  8. Hello,

    If you shot on an Xl-1 you didn't shoot 24p as the Xl-1 only shoots 30 frames and only has "frame" mode which emulates progressive scan but is NOT progressive scan. So if you shot on an Xl2 you may have shot 24p if so I think the only thing you need to do is select 24 frames NTSC project from the menu on your AVID, if I remember correctly this is one of the first menus that comes up when you start a new project. You can use the camera as a deck or you can use a mini-DV deck to import/export your footage.

    Cheers.

    Tomas.

     

    won't i use pal 24p setting or 25p instead of ntsc because we do pal here in india.

    and to confirm i used canonxl1 and according to you i can use any mini dv player to capture right. thanks a lot

  9. what factors in video makes a film maker decide if he'll shoot the film on 16:9 or 4:3. is it preference or some technicality behind it

  10. i recently shot a film on canon xl1 frame rate mode i.e, 24p now i'm gonna edit it on a avid xpress pro, what i need to know is when i'll capture the footage do i need a canon xl1 only as a player or its the avid on which i have to work on certain settings. please let me know

  11. i'm sorry to again question on the same topic but the thing is we dont have any problem with arranging for lights, generator, smoke and mirror boards we can afford that but the thing is that we have a maximum 6k hmi that to only one. i can get three of 2.5k hmi and need to get the effect of sunrays entering a plane glass window on to two subjects sitting on the floor how do i do the setup.

    thanks a lot

  12. the idea is to get a very light tint something like the green in matrix or even lighter than that and to make it look clean not to just put a plate of some colour and make everything get a look of that colour

  13. Only the Canon XL2 allows interchangeable lenses, so if possible, I'd get the manual zoom rather than the servo zoom.  Otherwise, the main problem with DV is the excessively deep focus -- the primary solution has been to shoot nearly wide-open on the aperture (like around an f/2.8) and then use the telephoto end of the zoom to reduce depth of field. Not always possible or practical when doing shots in small locations though.

     

    The only system that completely replicates 35mm's depth of field is the P&S Technik Mini-35 device, but that may be too much info for you, plus it then requires you also rent a set of 35mm cine lenses.

     

    http://www.pstechnik.de/en/digitalfilm-mini35.php

     

    The progressive-scan issue deals with replicating the MOTION artifacts of 24 fps film. What I'm talking about here is replicating the DEPTH OF FIELD artifacts of larger imaging areas like a 35mm frame.

     

    We didn't even discuss RESOLUTION, EXPOSURE LATITUDE, COLOR REPRODUCTION, PIXELS VERSUS GRAINS, ASPECT RATIO, COMPRESSION ARTIFACTS, etc.

     

    does canon xl1 also have 24p option and don't they have interchangable lenses.

  14. Basically you want a hazed (smoked) set and then some powerful sharp lights shining through the window. Any light backed far enough away is a sharp source but they get dimmer when farther away, so the lights need to be really big & bright.  Otherwise, there are "projector beam" type lights like Xenons, Molebeams but they tend to not cover the spread of a huge window unless you use multiple ones.  But in you case, if you want more of a dappled effect like sunlight streaming through tree leaves and then through a window, multiple lights might be OK.  Same with big multi-bank tungsten lamps like Dino's, Raybeams, MaxiBrutes, Jumbos, etc.

     

    You really need a qualified electrician / Gaffer for what you are planning though. Hire someone and ask them.

     

    A mirror reflecting sunlight would be cheaper and easier, just more limiting to certain times of the day and weather conditions (i.e. it has to be sunny.) You'd need a couple of 4'x4' mirror boards (mirrors on wooden boards that pivot on a yoke w/ a junior spud) on big combo stands and some step ladders behind them to make adjustments once they went up high on the stands.

     

    But I basically said all this the first time...

     

     

    i have in total three 2.5k par hmi and mirror boards how do i do the setup for the sunrays thing and if i want the whitish light do i need to put cto's.

  15. Sure, there are lots of yellowish warming filters -- you could use something like an 81EF, for example, and tweak it in post to get the exact shade you want. Or a Coral filter, like a 1/4 or 1/2. Or Gold, etc. Lots of warm colors available -- you'd just need to push it towards the particular shade you want by adding more yellow, magenta, red, green, whatever in post.

     

    if instead of using coral is just do it on post wil the effect be the same or it will be better using coral.

  16. I want to light up a scene where a guy is sitting in front of a huge glass wall and i want to show beams of sunrays entering the room through that glass wall in form of mutiple beams of sunrays each visible clearly. how to do that

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