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Joshua G.

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Posts posted by Joshua G.

  1. The Arri T2 is a newer design, so it's possible that the reflector is more efficient than the old fresnels we are used to. [...]

     

    But if you're buying, then the fresnel would be the better all-rounder.

    Not meaning to sound difficult here, but the Arrilites are also an improved unit: for example, Arri claims the 750 Plus is comparable to or exceeds their now-defunct 1000w open-face model.

     

    If the aim is purchasing or say picking up a single unit between two 2K fixtures -- one a fresnel, the other open-face -- to deliver the higher output light or meter reading off a bounce or diffusion material, the choice is clear based on the charts, right?

     

    This choice being the fresnel strikes me as contradictory to the prevailing wisdom I've gleaned from the DoP community. The rationale was, as I understood it, if one wants the punching power or higher light output alone with which to utilise a diffusion or bounce material, the open-face was the fixture of choice (over an equivalent tungsten fresnel). The numbers, though, do not or no longer bear this out.

  2. Completely unscientific, but if you're bouncing, use an open face lamp. If you're diffusing, use a fresnel. If you only have one lamp, then use what you've got.

    And if a situation arises wherein -- and this is if the photometric data or calculations hold -- you have both fixtures or is tasked to bring only one fixture, the one that gives the higher light output given a set distance or area, be it to bounce against or diffuse through, that fixture would have to be the fresnel, isn't that right?

  3. Full spot for that fresnel fixture is not the same beam angle (and diameter) as full spot on open face, so to fill the same surface with a fresnel as with an open face you'll have to increase the angle on T2, and so you will get less light.

    Yes, but if the aim is to extract the maximum light output to punch through or bounce against a given area, it still stands that a fresnel would be the unit to give you the better results, does it not? This seems to me to go against conventional wisdom of favouring the open-face on such jobs. I suspect I'm misunderstanding an element to this principle.

  4. Using Arri's own photometric calculator one comes up with the following

     

    Arri T2 with the CP/41 2000w lamp at full flood:

    - 5.0m beam diameter = 4.7m distance = 1609lx illuminance

    - 5.0m distance = 5.3m beam diameter = 1423lx

     

    Arrilite 2000 Plus with an FEX 2000w lamp at full flood:

    - 5.0m beam diameter = 4.2m distance = 1357lx

    - 5.0m distance = 6.0m beam diameter = 940lx

     

    Arri T2 at full spot:

    - 5.0m beam diameter = 20m distance = 418lx

    - 5.0m distance = 1.1m beam diameter = 6693lx

     

    Arrilite 2000 Plus at full spot:

    - 5.0m beam diameter = 11.8m distance = 795lx

    - 5.0m distance = 2.1m distance = 4400lx

     

    And,

     

    Ianiro Blonde at 5.0m distance:

    - full flood = 948lx

    - full spot = 3984lx

     

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    - http://calc.arri.de/calculator

    - http://www.ianirouk.com/product.php?ProductID=260

  5. I was after sourcing a light fixture whose main job was to punch through or bounce against diffusion (and possibly, periodically in a chimera), and so naturally, I had my eyes set on open-faced units. Upon closer look however, I see that the fresnel equivalents output a higher lumens than its open-face counterparts, judging from their photometric data (Arrilite 2000 plus v. Arri T2 v. Ianiro blondes). How is this so -- I thought the sense in preferring open-face units on diffusion is their luminance advantage? Have I misunderstood the rationale and/or misread the charts? I'd very much appreciate some clarification.

  6. Got one. I paid more than I originally budgeted, but I guess it's a seller's market out there for these lenses. While lens is on its way to me, could anyone tell me what is the general practice or precautions with second-hand cine lenses? Is it a good idea to have it serviced? It is also my understanding that since I'd be using a PL adapter for my camera, that it'll most likely need to shimmed. Could anyone recommend a place or technician in the UK where I can get all these done?

  7. For ease of use and flexibility, any advice on the most optimal way of terminating lighting cable? Keeping in mind that I am based in the UK and would be initially using the lights at home — though, as mentioned, looking in the long-term and on-location use — what type of plug should I be using? On the Arri 650w I bought was an in-line power switch; is that also mandatory? Would appreciate some help!

    Regards,
    J

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