Youngjae Lih

I am working on the film looping installation but I found loading on the looper is pretty hard to get 'balanced'.

As I understood, ideally looping system has to reel and unreel film more or less same amount film so it won't stuck or become large film donut?

I load the film with spacer on inner circle and remove it later, so whole film roll could rotate smoothly on the looper plate and it could release. It runs well for a while without any problem but after certain moment you can see the whole film circle is getting smaller or bigger which lead the looper stuck with film or make the film out of track(plate). It doesn't happen always same point or duration of time so I feel it almost randomly happen. Barely it runs on 'balanced' mode, but I have no idea why. and what did I do.

Is there basic general rules or warnings that I have to mind? I guess the amount of film and the type of the looper would be another factor, I'd like to run 100 to 150m length film if possible.(but I'd like to find stable way first even if shorter length) Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

On 11/9/2016 at 10:45 AM, Doug Palmer said:

For the film to be printed, be careful to allow an extra frame on each loop. As in this picture of Bolex:

http://filmcamblog.blogspot.co.uk/2010/11/printing-special-effects-in-camera.html

After I tried many times, back to old post I should ask...

Doug, I've tried to do what you described and I still couldn't understand why you emphasised extra frame. Doesn't it actually make more potential probelms? I did bipack while those round guide is locked, so two film moves altogether always.

Also I have a trouble that sometimes negative seems slip while exposing it so end up making vertically shaken images on print stock. It doesn't happen always so I am not sure if it relates with this extra frame matter.

I don't know if anybody would check but I post in case..

wow, thank you. That says alot.

Of course it might be dependent measurement, I want to hear others experiences.

While making some experiment, I made some print stock with Orwo pf2(black and white), which I understand polyester stock. Indeed I am very impressed its durableness in general also after I glued some parts with superglue. So I wonder how much polyester base stable physically and chemically and to make some experiment if there are any feasible way to manipulating film more chemically rather than physical method such as tinting, destroying emulsion layer..so on. It seem I need to play with negative (acetate) then move to print stock is the way to go but want to ask others in case.

Its late but thank you very much for the answers. I appreciate it. I think I didn't really understand the answers as I was new to film(still) but I can see now, and what does it means better. Thanks.

Hi,

I've worked mainly 7222 with self processing(D76/Dektol), now I wonder what type of film can be used for print stock.

I've read from the list of motion film, Kodak 7202/7203 is used for BW print stock. But when I check from resellers 7202 is colour negative film. So I am bit confused now, is anyone could recommend suitable print stock for projection? What I want to try here exactly is, I want to make positive duplicate from my negative which is possible to project. I guess slower film(lower ISO) would fit for duplication and control the contrast, it seems really hard to find proper one in Europe. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Dear Jean-Louis and Dom Jaeger

Thank you, it was exactly what you said. I've sorted it out well!!

Hello,

I am a kind of newbie in 16mm film world, I know it would be very primitive question. Please excuse me.

I've worked with Kodak 7222 few times which is black and white negative film.

As I want to make positive print from it for projection, I need to get proper one for purpose.

One person mentioned about Kodak 3302 or Orwo pf2, Though it seems no problem to get 7222, unfortunately so far I couldn't find any of suppliers for final print stock.

It seems US is quite active in general about this analog film technique, but I am based in Sweden now. I might contact directly to Kodak/Orwo even though I am individual?

It would be appreciated anyone let me know some supplier in Europe. Or is there other alternatives with good contrast?

Thank you for reading, hope to hear some advice!

Hi

I think what you want to do is make a positive, rather than an inter positive. A positive is for projection and has normal projection contrast. An inter positive is low contrast and designed for them making an internegative from.

For a positive you want to use a bw print stock like Kodak 3302 or Orwo pf2. These come in very long rolls of 2000 feet.

There are a number of ways to make a diy contact print involving bi-packing various film mechanisms. You can do it to a flat bed editor (like a steenbeck) or a projector or a camera like a bolex. The bolex version is the easiest and doesn't require modifying anything. With a normal bolex you would wind max 50 feet of meg with the same amount of print stock with the emulsion to emulsion. Note, start with the neg head out. It will end up tail out after preparing it with print stock. Load bipacked roll into camera. Take off lens. Point camera at a bright light bouncing off a white wall. Develop film. If it's too light or too dark change the camera speed and repeat.

Hi Richard,

Thank you very much! I have bolex so i can try it. I haven't thought about it at all, brilliant! Just in case, as I understood I have to put the my negative with print stock together. Doesn't it make bolex jamming? Or is there any special method to reel the film on the roll? Thanks again!

Dear Jean-Louis

Thank you for reply, now everything seems clear. Just one more question before I start to dismantle it. I think I know what you mean 4 screws on top. Because it is rex5 model, it has magazine instrumdnt on top side and i wonder if I have to dismantle it first, or it is possible that I can dismantle viewfinder top plate only. I was considering to disassemble it but was afraid if it is way too complicated for me.

All best

YJ

Sorry for repeating. I think this is more proper to be here.

-

Hello,

Recently I bought the bolex H16 rex5. But I am not sure if the viewfinder is okay. From its appearance it is 10x viewfinder. Hope I can get some advices from seniors here.

First of all it has lever on the side but I can see the image very well when it is vertical position! And the horizontal position, it become very dark. But still I can see the image and specially bottom 30% parts become really dark.

When I remove the lens and rotate turret, from the front side I can recognize lights through the prism glass. The light comes from viewfinder behind(usually where my eye should place there), so I can imagine the film will be damaged if I put the lever vertical position. When I change the lever horizontal position, I can sense from the front side the light is blocked somehow. Actually still I can see the dark image through the viewfinder.

Also what I found strange is, when I turn the lever horizontal position I have to rotate lever forward direction(lens side, not to the eye side). I checked all bolex images, it seems completely opposite from other cameras or manual pictures.

Here the summaries and my questions,

1. Is it possible the viewfinder lever works the other way around that horizontal position is closed but vertical position is openning the view?

2. Even if it is possible, but is it still normal that I can see the darken images through the closed viewfinder?(horizontal)

3. If the viewfinder has a problem, can I use the side-attachable viewfinder instead of this?(if so, I might block original viewfinder to avoid fogging damages)

Thanks for reading,

Best,yj

Hi

I have been working only with dark room photography but film processing is quite new. Recently I have been interested in 16mm b/w hand processingd but still I am stuck on primitive level.

I am using kodak 7222 negative films now. And I am wondering how I can produce positive film from negative edition. I guess there should be professional duplication machine in the lab. But is it also possible to duplicate(negative to positive or vice versa) by hand processing?

I am working alone as it is my hobby so I have no contacts from professional people. It would be appreciated someone let me know detail processes. Thanks!

Hello

Recently I bought the bolex H16 rex5. But I am not sure if the viewfinder is okay. From its appearance it is 10x viewfinder. Hope I can get some advices from seniors here.

First of all it has lever on the side but I can see the image very well when it is vertical position! And the horizontal position, it become very dark. But still I can see the image and specially bottom 30% parts become really dark.

When I remove the lens and rotate turret, from the front side I can recognize lights through the prism glass. The light comes from viewfinder behind(usually where my eye should place there), so I can imagine the film will be damaged if I put the lever vertical position. When I change the lever horizontal position, I can sense from the front side the light is blocked somehow. Actually still I can see the dark image through the viewfinder.

Also what I found strange is, when I turn the lever horizontal position I have to rotate lever forward direction(lens side, not to the eye side). I checked all bolex images, it seems completely opposite from other cameras or manual pictures.

Here the summaries and my questions,

1. Is it possible the viewfinder lever works the other way around that horizontal position is closed but vertical position is openning the view?

2. Even if it is possible, but is it still normal that I can see the darken images through the closed viewfinder?(horizontal)

3. If the viewfinder has a problem, can I use the side-attachable viewfinder instead of this?(if so, I might block original viewfinder to avoid fogging damages)