Machado

Ya, i have athe T-600 and it runs really quiet. If I could, I would buy this one and sell that one. Actually, I may have to sell that anyway :(

Sam, Your correct but I didn't want to confuse him further. Thats why I explained it that way.

You may be suprised by how many people think a double run 8mm camera will take 16mm film when they first see them. I wanted to make sure he did not to make this connection at all.

The odds are he doesn't have access to a re-perferating machine, So for all intents and purposes, double run 8mm is not 16mm film to him.Also, it would never be worth running 25ft of 8mm film in a 16mm camera price or time wise..

The camera you speak of is a double roll 8mm camera. It uses 25ft of "16mm wide" film and is run through the camera twice. Note that this film is not the same as 16mm, its perforated differently.

Double run 8mm Is run once in one direction exposing only an 8mm width and then taken out of the camera filpeed over and run once more to exposed the second half of the total 16mm width. After processing, this film is split in two and joined together to make 50ft of film.

Regular 8mm cameras are nice because most use decent d-mount prime lenses. That said, I would like to suggest you consider super8mm over 8mm for the added benifit of frame area as well as better equipment and selection of film stocks (vision2 neg stocks). I believe someone out there re perforates 16mm into 8mm so perhaps these film stocks can be found, however getting them for super8 remains easier to do..

So how many feature films have been shot in MAX8 or Super Duper8? Also, Which was the first???

I'm sure Widening the gate has been done decades ago, but where are the fruits of those labours??? A 3min k40 real shot on a japanzoom which was headed to the dump anyway?

Were talking about not only modding a camera, but actually making a viable marketable finished product at the same time.

So, once agian, please name some Max8/ Super-Duper 8 films made and when they were made.

I'll start....

Sleep Always c 2002

You'll find a few threads there, some reassuring, some not. The longest concerns the purchase of a £200 Canon 814XLS advertised as near mint which turned out to have a scratch on the lens and sand inside the focus ring. Camera was eventually accepted back by the dealer (after first denying any problem) for a refund/credit but was then immediately relisted on the site without any change to the description of its condition. It was pointed out that as this is a business in Germany, that country's stringent consumer protection laws work in favour of the buyer, so in theory, if you discover any problem with a camera from them you can post it straight back and get a full refund. The general conclusion was that you shouldn't make too many assumptions of quality control from this guy, and that caveat emptor still applies. Sadly. For Nizo, Merzbarn were recommended. Good luck.

 

Rab

yep, its the 814xls thread that I was think about. that one turned into a sour experience for the buyer. However, i have read ok stuff as well. best thing is to specifically ask about lens scratches, scuffs etc. perhaps request some more pics and ask about return policy including shipping if it turns out to be totally un-acceptable...

I couldn't find the thread as that search engine is still an enigma to me sometimes?? :rolleyes:

I'm looking to buy a camera from Uhmeyer at Super 8 Camera shop in Germany. I've emailed him back and forth and he seems spot on. Can anybody attest to the quality of the cameras on his site?

 

Thanks.

 

For reference, I'm looking into the Beaulieu 4008 ZM4 kit listed here.

I will look for a thread i think was posted at filmshooting about this site..

I had a further look and removed the rear eye piece plate and realized that the viewing system stays protruded out of the camera, so my theory of simply tilting this thing up and out seems more difficult at the moment. I'm now thinking that the top machined nut must play a more vital role in removing this top piece. I can't find my ring clip pliers so removing it can't be done right now. I also removed the front badge and can confirm that this holds no secrets behind it. It simply pries off and is only held in place with glue.

I can also report that removing the rubber around the bottom of the camera which surrounds the threaded tripod mound reveals screws to separate that whole assembly. once removed, you will be able to remove the plastic cover which surrounds the trigger and which once removed will reveal screws to aid in the removal of the grey plastic molded pieces on each side of the camera. I'm also now guessing that its infact this whole bottom section which will be key to revealing more of the mechanism then the top will.

As for the main controls side of the camera, all the dials look as though they can be easily removed and I'm guessing all badges on buttons such as slow-mo and variable shutter can be removed and will have screws behind them as well (not confirmed yet). But it definitely seems as though its these grey molded plastic assemblies located on each side of the camera, that will separate away the main camera body and part of which are tucked in under each side of the lens macro control ring. Once I find the smallest micro flat head I can find, I will try to remove the handle un-lock switch which is now restricting the removal of the grey plastic molded cover on the zoom control side of the camera..

Sorry If I'm confusing you, but I'm figuring this out as I go along this afternoon.....

Though I have not actually tried this yet myself, it appears to me that the top most part of the 814E lifts off and seperates from the camera. There are 4 screws at the rear of the view finder and 2 screws, each located on either side of the autozoom 814 badge. There is also what seems to be a machined nut used for the threaded daylight filter removal trigger up top, my guess is this would be removed aswell. Again I have not tried it, but this molded steel peice certainly has the appearence that it will lift up and away from the camera exposing more clues once its gone...

.

I recieved my copy of Super8today the other day :D I must say I'm very happy with the magazine. Well worth the money I spent, look forward to the other issues.. About the Kodak thing, maybe everyone has just been thrown off by the deal with lucky films and read the whole thing wrong??? Afterall, there is nothing wrong with having film made abroad if its destined for those markets anyway..

I just ordered the subscription, cant wait..

thanks chris...

There is one listed here for $42.oo new.

http://www.super8camera-shop.com/shop/index.html

Aaaahh, leica filter threads... :rolleyes: I'm still looking for some filters for my leica's summicron 40/2 (still photography), and I'm sure they will be quite expensive, once I find them...

 

BTW, you have a zeiss with b56 filter thread. Did you manage to find the 85b for it? I know B&H has some, but not this one.

David

Why not get a conversion ring? That way you can make the investment in filters that will fit all or most of your cameras..

Hi Just an update : I recently shot my first 2 rolls of film.

 

But in seeking to find out using Super8mm to the fullest would like to shoot actual single frame per sec. I saw a diagram of a cable sync on here made out of Speaker wire a push button and what seems to be a mic adapter or end of some headphones.  I was wondering if this setup works by it self or is there a need for some sort of electrical current needed?

 

Cameras :

 

1/ Sears model c-125

    F1/1:7 

12,18,32 fps, and single frame?

 

1/ Elmo Sound camera

18fps

singleframe?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

no current required, all your doing is completing a ciruict. Technically, you just need to touch those wires together to amke it trigger. You may get crazy with a mechanical clock and use it as a makeshift intervalometer as well. Just remeber that the plug your after is a mini plug, not the regular mic and ear phone type. Like mentioned above, a switch is optional.

I'm fixen to get my hands on some and quick! I asked the Canadian Kodak Rep, but he was unable to give me an ETA or price on 64T. :(

Pro8 seems to offer one stop shopping (film-process-transfer) for pro shoots that want the aesthetic of S-8.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The pro8mm stuff may be just cut down and re-perfed from 35mm short ends or even 35mm fresh stock. I believe they save a bunch buying it in bulk and loading it into carts themselves....

Although I have not tested it, I recently looked it over in order to see if this was a solution to my needs and problems with super8.  My biggest obsticle was the availability of film and the cost. Overseas shipping along with a weaker US dollar to Euro and base sticker price stops me.  16mm then becomes a better option for picture stability and cost for quality of picture.  What do others think?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I'm with you John. Price and availablilty of 200ft and 400ft super8 are the biggest obstacles here. For the money, 16mm is the better choice right now.

I would still like to have one though, but untill I see the film availability secured, I won't spend anywhere near the current asking price.

I've finally got it worked out and tested in the US so my feature In My Image is now available on NTSC DVD (it has been on PAL for quite a while).

 

The disc features the movie (1 hours 32 minutes) and a making of discussion (37 minutes) and also the complete web site as a bonus DVD ROM freebie. The selling price is $30 Australian (which includes the postage and packaging). I'm accepting Paypal but other methods are possible.

Cool, I'd been waiting for a while to buy it...

P.S. Don't forget to mark it as a gift ;)

I just sent off an email to inquire about a unit to allow double system type sound recording using an MD, MP3 or other type of 2 channel recorder. The unit is the R1008MD.

If you have a nagra though, you can go this route.

http://users.aol.com/fmgp/sync11.htm

maybe its to keep it warm?

:blink:

Steadiness issues with super8 are not always evident, but they do exist. First of, most of the frame is masked during projection so watching the frame line where this action is most noticeable is not always possible.

If you telecine a roll through an enlarged gate to expose the whole film area, you may notice it what you though was steady is in fact not so..

I personally have not had any bad issues with cart jitter and such, I just acknowledge that many have and that the problems are real and not fabricated. Best thing to do is run tests with your particular equipment and film batch and see if your happy with the results. If so, problems should be minimal

No, I would not say that is completly true. For starters, a good (really good) super 8 camera is going to cost about the same as a moderatly priced reflex 16mm.

Now, none of those super 8 cameras has a metal pressure plate which all 16mm cameras do (how good it is another question). In super8 the pressure plate is simply provided by means of your plastic super 8 cart. You can buy an expensive machined plate if you wish, but your still at the mercy of the carts quality regardless.

Anyhow, just keep in mind that no matter how good a camera, you still depend on the quality of the cart.

where did the last post go?

well, i knew the 880 had it, but was'nt sure if the 881 did although I figured it might.

Anyhoo, it does! why you don't want it :blink:

eumig

Does this camera have the special slow shutter for capturing non moving objects in really low light.

I would have posted this in the classifieds, but since I'm looking for super8 stock, it seems more appropriate here.

Also anyone caring to discuss the use of old film is welcome to do that here also.

Anyhow, If anyone out there has older film stock Agfa movichrome or post 1984 ektachrome and no longer wants or needs them, please let me know. I would be more then happy to buy these from you in order to continue my home processing adventures till such time that 64T is released..

Thanks in advance..