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Marc De Acetis

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Posts posted by Marc De Acetis

  1. What type of 1.5 anamorphic did you end up using?

     

    One thing is to clean the gate, but the other thing is that the vertical scratches are always the same. And they are mainly on the bottom and some of the top of the frame. If it were the loop formers the scratches would be more continuesly on the film.

    But I had never problems with a K3 and scratches with a loop former. And I used three different ones.

    Clean everything very carefully, also the lens and the anamorphot and try it again and use also a completely different lens for some shots. Maybe it is a problem with the lens or anamorphot.

    Or maybe also there is a problem with the telecine? It depends where you have done the telecine.

    It is a bit strange. With my footage I never had such a problem and I have used a lot of cameras from Super 8 to Super 35mm.

    By the way, I like the footage!

    What a anamporhot you use? One for shooting or one, which is normally used for projection?

    I am interested in it. And maybe also this could be a reason for this scratches.

    Hey guys! Glad to hear such interest. It is a projection anamorphic that screws onto the front of my Meteor 17-69 lens on the K3. It is called the Widescreen Supa60, it is quite a rare scope. There's not much info about it online, actually. It has some Interesting characteristics and blue flares similar to LOMO anas ! I am also using the Rapido FVD-16A single focus diopter screwed on the front of the anamorphic. (Both Meteor lens, and Anamorphic lens are at infinity, the anamorphic was calibrated by a lens tech to ensure optimal sharpness) I'm viewing a squeezed image in the viewfinder, but with 1.5x you can sort of tell the focus actually, it's not too tricky.

     

    As for the scratched. I'm not so sure it'd be the anamorphic cause it never caused me problems on digital.

  2. Hey everyone!

     

    Here's a video of some 16mm film I shot recently

     

    Picked up a K3 off Ebay for pretty dirt cheap, looked like it was never even used before. I loaded some 7222 stock into it and paired it with my 1.5x anamorphic. Shot some stuff just to test if it worked. It looks pretty solid but I'm getting consistent scratching on my footage. (and I knew I didn't clean the gate before shooting, so that's the lint in the corners) Any ideas as to why my footage is scratched? I still have the loop formers in the K3 and I've heard mixed things about it scratching footage (some say yes, others no).

     

    Any help would be much appreciated!

     

    Cheers!

  3. Selling a set of LOMO Standard Speeds t2.2 (the 18mm is a t3) that in OCT 19 mount. Comes with 18-28-35-50-75. All lenses in mint condition. Serial numbers are from 1979-1980.

     

     

    PRICE: Shoot me an offer, or trade whatever the best one is by Saturday night I'll take it. (PLUS SHIPPING AND PAYPAL FEES) Via email marc.deacetis@gmail.com

     

     

    PHOTOS: HERE

  4. Hello!

     

    I just bought a K3 a month or so ago. I'm wondering if anywhere or anyone mods the lens mount to some like PL anymore. I've seen a few people floating around with different mounts on this camera and the M42 mount is kind of hindering when it comes to wider FOVs.

     

    Any help is appreciated!

     

    Thanks!

  5. Generally they won't flicker-- generally, as long as you're not off speed. The DSLR trick is a good idea.

    I would highly recommmend taking a color meter and figuring out the +green you need to add to your own lights so they are all the same color, roughly, to be balanced out in post.

    Normally, I'd be on T film and then use a FLB filter to remove most of the green cast you typically get from cool white tubes but in your case on daylight film i'd try to source a FLD filter. Not as big a deal these days with digital post as it used to be, though; but do make sure you match your heads with +green gels as needed.

    Thank you Adrian for the insight and the advice! Going to run a test to get some results.

  6. Hello everyone,

     

    I'm shooting a film in a month and a bit all on S16 with 250D film stock. We are shooting a scene in a department store that has all fluorescent lighting (photo below). We don't have the budget to replace all the tubes in the store and I was thinking of shooting it mostly with the natural fluorescent light for the wides but adding more fill and shape in the closeups. A possible question that would raise when I'm doing this is the flicker. Will there be flicker? Would checking flicker from a DSLR in video mode be a suitable way of testing for flicker or would I need to play with the shutter in this instance and run some actual tests from the lab.

     

    FcAvIEu.pngLooking forward to your responses.

     

    Thanks,

    Marc

  7. apart from the problem which I cant help you with I really like the footage and cant wait to use Double-X myself....also that 'problem' would probably find itself in some hipster (as you Americans like to call it haha) filter pack of 'film emulation'

    Thanks! The night exteriors I took a sort of Gordon Willis "Manhattan" approach and pushed the film 2 and a half stops for all the night exteriors. I was very surprised with the results.

  8. We call those Sprungschrammen in German, skip scars, can one say so?

     

    The problem is confined to the loops, the part of the film in intermittent motion. One or both film loops touch something, something obviously sharp edged.

    Thank you! Also a big thank you to everyone who responded to help! Great feedback from everyone!

  9. I believe I recognized Honest Eds in Toronto. Was this processed at NCL? It almost looks like some kind of electrostatic buildup was processed with your negative.

     

    It was not actually done at Niagara because of the reviews I heard from people I know personally. This test was done at a lab in Maryland. My next test I plan to run one roll through NCL though, because I question the accuracy of some of the reviews I've gotten, and I'd like to test it myself because a lab in the city you live in is after all convenient. If you have a review about the place or other film labs closer to the city I'd love to get your feedback.

  10. Hello,

     

    I recently shot some Super16mm BW tests with Double-X 7222 film for the first time. I shot with an Arri SR3 and an Angenieux zoom. I have these weird lines on the side of the image after I got a telecine back that started out minimal and kinda got rampant as we got to the end of roll.

     

    I have uploaded a short video of the problems where they appear most prevalent. I

    have also attached some images below as well. Can someone help me what may have gone wrong?

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlpqNcql0v8&feature=youtu.be

     

     

    YYbxZjO.png9C9v6Lh.png

    cNc3tUe.png

     

    nitGoCB.png

    SniicCV.png

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