Tom McGrath

Hi Niall,

That size is not very common that I'm finding (discontinued old-style Arri, for example), but I'll keep my eyes open.

Hi Sam,

The 270 & 275 scrims are more made for cutting intensity in windows--they are not terribly heat resistant.

Metal screening is not easy to find in the UK, compared to the states, so don't try B&Q.

Go for a heat resistant ND gel instead---298 (half stop), 209 (1-stop), 210 (2-stop), 211 (3-stop) or 299 (4-stop).

hope that help.

https://limelitedesign.com/collections/dimmers/products/2-5kw-flicker-generator

These are manufactured near Manchester.

I think Anytronics in the UK also offer flicker dimmers.

Hi Niall, what size are the barndoors? Or, measure the distance (diameter) inside the barndoor ears--we might be able to find an alternate brand for you that would work.

I believe they are referring to 13a-16a and 16a-13a jumpers.

Chimera makes collapsible panel frames with a variety of fabrics. So does Westcott with the Scrim Jim Cine system.

LA Raghouse offers just about any of their fabrics in a 4x4 slip-on, which mounts directly onto a 48x48 trace frame.

All depends if you need a solid or collapsible 4x4 frame.

yep, that's what I meant (a crimped butt-splice)

And, I would cut about an inch away from the strain relief outside of the fixture. (get rid of everything inside the strain relief), then start fresh.

Of the cable piece that you have removed to get rid of, remove the outer jacket from the cable and pull the 2 ends of the individual wires (most likely the hot) I bet you will find where the wire broke.

good point Phil, I would probably do a crimp splice instead of solder. Heat shrink shouldn't be an issue though.

the first thing I thought of---did you just replace the socket leads to the cable inside the fixture, or did you cut the cable off OUTside of the fixture and start fresh?

Small fresnels, primarily the ones with smaller guage silicon cable, are notorious for having a wire break inside the insulation just at the strain-relief outside of the rear of the fixture.

I'd lay money that is where the problem is.

ANSI coded lamps (American National Standards Institute) use completely arbitrary codes, and the letters really mean nothing. I don't believe they ever began with 'A', but begin with B-F, and a few G's have come about in latter years. (and you never find the letter Q in the code)(and 'HPL' is not an ANSI code)

'F' doesn't indicate Ferrule, since that would also include the single-ended FEL 1kw lamp (G9.5 base) as well as the FAD, FDN, FCM, etc double-ended lamps.

With luck, the 1k PAR64's are alphabetical by beam spread (FFN, FFP, FFR, FFS), but that is about it.

The FAY lamp, by pure luck, has 3 letters that are pronouncable in a single syllable.

The LIF codes used for most lamps in the industry in Europe are a combination of letters and numbers, and again don't really mean anything.

I think Mole stopped using the plastic rocker switches some years ago. (it looks a bit like the older-style switch used on the power cords for the Lowel Tota)

The switch you received is the current model, and the switch housing is a separate item.

For a complete replacement switch, including housing, you might want to go with an Arri or even possibly a Lowel switch if it accepts the cable size. Those might be the cheapest options.

standard voltage in the UK is 240v, and lamps are readily available for most tungsten fixtures.(beware lamp base difference if using an Arri 150/LTM Pepper/Mole Inky) But if coming to the UK, there are MANY companies to rent gear from, so no need to worry. Where do you intend to be shooting in the UK?