Jared Hall

For an upcoming shoot, there’s are some shots that would be ideal if I could record exactly what’s on the screen on my HVX200. Is there any way to set this up on board so it captures the overlays & the video as one shot? Or does it need to be hooked up to a computer with a capture card? Thanks!

First off, I’m sorry for posting so much here, i’m just having a rather hard time finding the info i’m looking for just by searching it up online. One of the main things I really don’t understand is what interlacing / deinterlacing is, and how it relates to editing footage & posting it to a platform like youtube.

I have a shoot coming up i’m using mini dv for and really want to make sure the edit is as high of quality as possible. I’m out of town so we’re going to be dropping the tape off to get transferred somewhere, I called and it seems like they know what they’re doing, but i’m not sure if they’re using firewire or not. I also don’t know if firewire is the best option for transferring, but that’s what i’ve gathered.

Thanks!

On 10/13/2021 at 7:17 AM, Frank Wylie said:

(I now see this is a duplicate thread started by the OP.  Only ONE is required;  multiple only waste bandwidth!)

A friction tool is the best bet.  A solid rubber stopper,  a gum rubber "puck" or or any rubber type item like a jar lid opener can be pressed firmly and evenly down on the face of the ring while turning.

Its like opening a stubborn jar of pickles;  press down and turn while gripping the lens barrel firmly.

If you use sheet rubber, find a similar diameter object with a flat bottom, place the rubber sheet over the ring and align the bottom of the can or bottle or whatever to fit over the center of the ring, touching evenly on the rim of the adapter.  Start with light pressure and work your way up;  sometimes it comes of fairly easy, other times it can take an amazing amount of force to remove a stuck ring.

This video deals with lens disassembly with a specific set of tools, but the same principal applies:

 

Thank you so much for this reply! I am going to try this out when I can get my hands on one of these tools. For now I just decided to get a step down ring as I cant risk damaging the camera.

Also, I intended to delete one of these posts since I posted 2, but I havent found a way to do that. Are posts not removable?

Thanks again!

1 hour ago, Dom Jaeger said:

Try a rubber grip of some sort - I have a variety of tools to remove lens lock rings  most of which I’ve made myself. You can start with rubber dishwashing gloves, or a bath plug, or something like that. I have made some tools using a cylinder with O ring rubber glued to the end. You can put a drop or two of oil in the step up ring threads to help free it. Last resort might be to drill a couple of small holes in the ring and use a lens wrench.

Thanks! I’ve tried rubber gloves and another thing to open hard but this thing seriously will not budge. I think my main issue is that i can not grab the sides of it to twist. it sits flush with the lens hood mount and focus ring. whoever screwed this thing in here this tight is an idiot and making my life quite difficult right now lol. So i’m pushing on the inside to try and turn it which i feel like just makes it push harder against the side. really sucks lol

I bought this camera and didn’t realize this was a step up ring until today. I bought the correct 43mm accessories, but that of course won’t work until I remove the step up ring. I’ve tried to creat as much pressure with my fingers as possible and twist, but it’s just hurt my fingers and not gotten me anywhere. 

I can’t just buy the correct sized accessories for the step-up size, so i need to remove it. Any ideas on how I could remove this with not much room to fit anything on the sides? Maybe needle nose pliers?

There’s no room to get any leverage and i need to remove this to fit my fisheye lens on it. Really not sure how I can get this off, it’s stuck pretty good. 

PS. I didn’t put this there. I bought the camera and didn’t even realize this was a step up ring until today. 

Seems like sony is the much more common one still being sold when it comes to mini dv tapes. Is there any difference in using a certain tape over another? Thanks!

Looking to do an upcoming shoot in VHS, i have both a hi8 and s-vhs camera, but the hi8 needs to be repaired. I want the best vhs quality possible (if that makes sense lol), and i can’t seem to find a clear answer on if one is superior to the other. Sound won’t be used in the final product so really i’m only concerned about picture, does anyone know the differences? Thanks!

2 hours ago, Frank Wylie said:

Let me get this straight:  it is a S-VHS tape that was digitized to... what?  What was the file format you received?

No scanning was involved;  only a standards conversion.  Your S-VHS tape was recorded at an INTERLACED 29.97 fps, so if you had it converted to a 24 or 30 fps file, there has to be some frame duplication/elimination and consolidation to make it work UNLESS you throw it in DaVinci Resolve and use Optical Flow to re-time the footage.

Here's an explanation of frame rates from silent film to NTSC that should help understand the problem.

 

Oh wow, thank you for the response. I got it as a mp4 file from the place that converted it. The frame drops don’t get worse until about half way in to the end of the 90 minute video. I’ll watch that video once i’m off work but i started editing the footage together and it actually doesn’t look to bad fortunately. It’s just odd to me because I had this same place convert my hi8 tape and had none of these issues. But I wasn’t sure how the tape conversion process worked I assumed they recorded it from the vhs playback and the capture card or whatever they used was at fault

Is this an issue with the place that scanned this footage or is tape known for this? it may be a bit tricky to tell from the video but throughout all of my clips theres many moments where they experience little frame rate drops which makes it appear very stuttery and it won’t work for what i need the footage for. Should i just ask them to rescan it or is my tape the issue? Here’s the link: https://youtube.com/shorts/JQs0QoVryfI?feature=share

Ive had this problem ever since I got this off eBay, everything works electronically, but for some reason sometimes when I hold in the trigger it just makes a clicking noise and the shutter does nothing. Other times it will work perfectly fine, and then once I let go and press it agin it just goes back to clicking. Ive found that setting it to the time lapse / timer mode and holding in the trigger will sometimes make the shutter start to open and then it will work somewhat fine afterwards, but this only works randomly. It sounds like it wants to work but I guess I just ordered a faulty partially working camera for $300 ? If anyone has had this problem and knows whats going on please let me know, thanks!

10 minutes ago, Martin Baumgarten said:

Sadly, a common issue on this camera (and some others with folding handles) is that a short develops in the wiring from the folding.  Try using an external power supply to the camera via the external power port.  If no response, then the short is also shorting out this avenue to supply power to the camera.  If the external power supply runs the camera, then you could use it this way.  Otherwise, repair involves the removal the other folding handle and tracing where the short is.  On some models, I have seen the handle begin to overheat due to the short directly shorting the batteries themselves!  The folding handle design on Super 8mm cameras, while novel and helpful for tripod lower center of gravity filming, also has the potential to have the power supply short out.  I have seen this on quite a few Super 8mm cameras.  As for repair, if you are adept at using fine tools and doing this type of work, you might want to try it, or you could just sell off the camera for parts/repair as is, without making it worse.

Thank you again for a great response, I will be trying out the external power option within the next few days. So just external source to where the handle would contact the prong that’s rooted to the actual camera then? Thanks again.

1 hour ago, Martin Baumgarten said:

Your camera seems to running fine (abeit some noise), and what I think you are seeing is that the Cartridge Film Drive Cog isn't rotating.  This is removed from position when the film chamber door is opened  to allow removal/insertion of the Super 8mm Film Cartridge.  On the rear of the camera with the film chamber door open, you'll notice a metal plunger on the left side.  When the door is closed, it pushed this plunger into the camera to engage the Film Drive Cog mechanism.  If you depress this with a small tool and then run the camera, you will see the cog has moved into the film chamber as well as is rotating.  If it doesn't rotate when you do this, then there might be a connection issue, but I'm hoping all is fine and you can begin to use this fine camera.

This helped so much. Exactly what is going on. Thank you so much! I just don’t have a test reel on hand which is why I was opening the door to view the motor. Thank you very much for the reply, you saved me a lot of time.

I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong here or what, but basically it would seem as if the camera works fine, it sounds perfect and the zoom works great, but from what I can see the motor seems to not be spinning. I took off the front cover and recorded what it looks like when the button is pressed and even then it looks to be working (Video of camera when trigger is pressed). Bit for some reason when I open the back and look at the motor while the shutter is opening and closing, the motor isn't turning. Any ideas? I bought this as a working condition camera on eBay a few weeks ago for about $300.

I recently cooped up a 514-XLS that is literally in such a condition that you could tell me it was made yesterday and I would believe you (if it weren’t 2020). There is absolutely no corrosion in the battery slot, it’s all still super shiny and looks like it should all work. Unfortunately, there is seemingly no power being delivered to the camera whatsoever when the batteries are in. No sounds, coming from the camera or anything. Any ideas on possible fixes? I’m wondering if it’s just the handle contacts that have gone bad