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Fernando Morales

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Posts posted by Fernando Morales

  1. Hola, José. For a good description of Canon cameras check http://tinyurl.com/2zw36x

    Definitely follow Rick's advice and get an external filter if your are shooting reveral tungsten film in daylight. They go cheap on eBay. Most of those old internals are worn out.

    Nowadays I shoot mostly b/w and E100D or Velvia refilled kaccemas outside, so no need for E64T ;)

     

    Hope this helps,

     

    Fernando.

  2. Congratulations on your new camera. It's another one of my favorites and I use more. As long as if you don't mind too much about camera running noise when recording sound you'll be alright with it and will cover most of your super 8 needs.

    Regarding your question, if you are shooting interiors go definitelly with tri-x, it's been designed for that. I self process b/w at home with "old" chemistry, so I keep shooting plus-x 50ASA rated. It looks almost 16mm when shooting in daylight and with a good exposure.

    I've recently developed old tri-x shot at 320T (one stop pushed) and turned out pretty good. Remember that when you are not home processing, labs will charge you extra for pushing/pulling your film.

     

    Hope this helps,

     

    Fernando.

  3. Fernando

     

    Would you post a wiring diagram or explain the wiring to the minidisc and how it works?

     

    thank you, gary

     

    Hi, Gary. Sorry if I'm late. Yes, I will post the wiring. Here's the circuit, it's pretty easy to put together. I'm not sure if it's copyrighted or not, so my apologies in advance to the author:

     

    pulseschematic002dr4.jpg

     

    There also some pictures fo the finished device:

     

    http://argellafilms.blogspot.com/

     

    This is a blog I have that need serious update and an english version. On next post I will diagram conections and put more pictures. Hope to get some examples when I finish my DIY telecine.

     

    Matt has written a plugin to use it in post, but I haven't tried yet although I made some recordings. If you are interested, ask him kindly if you can have a copy and I'm sure he'll send it to you.

     

    Hope this helps,

     

    Fernando.

  4. If you need perfect sync like shooting live music or for example you don't want to mess with post lip sync you can build a pilot tone generator plugged into the Canon's flash socket and send the signal to one channel of a minidisc recorder. This is what I've done so far and I'm pleased with the results. The only bug is to carry around all those cables while using a DIY steadycam as I did. Next time I would try a stereo recording with at least a 4 track cassette portastudio. Sometimes digital sound seems too "clean" for super 8 purposes.

     

    Hope this helps,

     

    Morales.

  5. Hi to all!

     

    Super 8 is really cheap when you home process/transfer IMHO. Of course, you maybe develop 30m super 8 a day or 60m DS8 a day average using a Lomo tank, i.e. Plus, you can push process at will (great results pushing fomapan r100 to 400ASA). Takes more time though, but it's definitely worth it.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Morales

  6. Hi, Scott:

     

    A good start would be this webpage:

     

    http://home.pacbell.net/mnyberg/super8mm/super8_39.html

     

    As a matter of fact, Mike's webpage was my first reference about anamorphic lenses. Right now

     

    I'm trying to find one that would be compatible with my Canon 1014 XL-S, which has a filter thread of 67mm. If you know of anything like this, know of a good one to use, or have experience using them, please let me know.

     

    Big zoom lenses tend to vignet more than smallers. Right now I am using a quarz S8 without the zoom lens, a Kowa for Bell & Howell 2x a-lens. The Quarz's small prime gives great compression! I tried also with a Quarz DS8-3 and having the same zoom lens, it works fine until you reach 15mm (remember that you can consider this 7.5mm in 2x). But the best for me is the Switar 12.5mm Bolex prime lens.

    Small lenses work fine with these kind of a-lenses (cheap and readily available through ebay), for your 1014xl-s, you should probably go for the Isco 54, which can give you 1.5x, but of course, is more expensive. I do have a 1014 too and I tried but vignetting started at 40mm, at least with the Kowa. Maybe another forumer has some experience with the Isco and can tell you more.

    For an a-lens list:

     

    http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Anamorphic...hic_attachments

     

    Hope this helps. Best regards,

     

    Morales

  7. Hi! Nizos are very nice cameras, not as tough as canons though. Considering age, I suggest you go for a Canon 814AZ electronic (not the older one) if you are on a low budget. You can do some tests, see if it's what you were looking for and if you don't like it you didn't spend a lot plus you can save money for filmstock. Although sound film has been discontinued, sound cameras tend to be quieter than silent ones.

     

    Hope this helps, best regards,

     

    Morales

  8. Wow, that is a shame, would there be any possible way of "moding" it?

     

    Hey, Matt

     

    No problem. I took it apart once trying to acomplished that. I messed around with the posts but I eneded up frustrated and decided to move on. Maybe someone with more knowlegde can do it. Anyway, I still think it is a great camera, reliable, nice images and ergonomic.

     

    Best regards,

     

    Morales

  9. Great news for everybody! Though I have a Bolex H8 Rex DS8 camera and I love it, I would love to use a brand new DS8 camera! Perhaps this might boost somehow the release of more stocks. DS8 gives steadier images than S8. I've tested with both the Bolex and the Canon 1014XL-S. The Leicina Special might be better but I don't have one. What do you guys think?

     

    Best regards,

     

    Morales

  10. Hi to all! Though I like Canons in general and I have a few models as well, in this case I would go for the Quarz. I got one and it's great, almost manual (except fo the auto aperture option), films at 24fps and TTL manual/auto lightmeter. Great for learning! The downside is doesn't have the low light shuter angle and the lightmeter uses mercury batteries. Anyway, I wouldn't think it twice.

     

    Hope this helps. Best regards,

     

    Morales

  11. Hi, Jon

     

    I have this camera and the XL-E model. I think this can be considered the newer model rather than the XL-S, to me a different kind, the latter has sound in the beginning. I would love the XL-E with 24fps, like the AZ-E (the one you bought). Said this, I love this camera too, althogh the viewfinder is not as ergonomic as the later Canon models and ISN'T an XL camera. Will work in most of the situations. Is a very versatile unit (you can't do 9 or 12fps either). If you're using B/W, I recommend Tri-x stock for interiors. It's simply beautiful. If you want color reversal you have to stick with E64T until Kodak make us a Christmas present with E100D <_<

    The price you paid is OK, specially if you live in Europe. I bought mine from ebay Austria for ?18 and paid ?13 for shipping. The XLe I bought it from France for ?11 and ?15 shipping. But I got them in Spain, so it's a bit more expensive.

    It's a great camera for almost all purposes, to me, a filmmaker workhorse, as most of the canons around.

    By the way, PM me for the manual, I got it in word.

     

    Kind regards,

     

    Morales

  12. I thought you had unhinged the claim I had made that Flicker is the only entity on the planet that actually shows Super-8 only and only projects it digitally. Looks like my claim is still valid.

     

    Of course, I wasn't questining your claim at all. It IS valid. I just wanted to add that there are similar ideas going on!

     

    Best regards,

     

    Morales

  13. Cheap (or stupid) ideas for non sync:

     

    - if you don't have a tail slate, actors can clap their hands

    - in the worst case, get your boom close to the camera, start shooting to record the motor sound (probably noisy, specially in interiors) and then start with your scene.

     

    Hope this helps

  14. Hey there

     

    Get a mixer, a 4 xlr channels and 4 aux channels. They are not expensive. I've done some monkey business myself with those cheap mics in the '80s and early '90 when down here we didn't have a miserable sm58. It's nice to have a neumann u87, don't let not having it to be a major problem. I tape my "ambulance reality" with a non sync camera (bolex h8 or canon 814 AZe) and a Sony 333 walkman that I modified with and external condenser mic. Of course, I use chrome tape cassettes. Have fun!

  15. Hi, Sarah and welcome aboard

     

    You said that E64T was UNDEREXPOSED in your Canon 514 (sound or non sound?, I have the non sound one), that's why this camera particularly takes this film as if it was 160 ASA, thus you would have to open the diaphragm 1 and 2/3 stops in order to get the right exposure. Results may vary. Here's an interesting article regarding this matter:

     

    http://super8wiki.com/index.php/Super_8_EK..._in_old_cameras

     

    Never tried velvia 50d, some cinematographers swear it's better to overexpose it a little bit taking advantadge of that most cameras read it as 40ASA.

     

    As for the lightmeter, go for and external incident. You can find cheap sekonic L28C or similiar on ebay. I use this one and I bought it for $25 including shipping. Great for learning calculating shutter speeds.

     

    Best regards,

     

    Morales

  16.  

    Thank you, Alex! Really useful.

    By the way, Canon (and japanese period) cameras may not have had a lot of features like other brands, but, man, they've been build like tanks! Mine never been at a repair store and still working fine! Just put new batteries and the go!

     

    Best regards,

     

    Morales

  17. so drop it. go to my thread instead

     

    Please, I need your help, guys (taking advantadge of Santo's having everyone's attention powers)

     

    Thanks!

  18. Hi, everybody!

     

    I've recently purchased a lot of 14 old tri-x cartridges (really cheap) just to mess around with home processing. The question is: is it enough with de CCA filter of the camera to expose film en daylight or do I have to put a filter on it?

     

    I have 3 super 8 cameras:

     

    - Canon 514XL

    - Canon 814AZe

    - Canon 814XL-e

     

    Excuse me for my rookieness, I am just starting.

     

    Thanks and best regards,

     

    Morales

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