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My Gear


Found 2 results

  1. Hi everyone, I just wanted to get a few perspectives on grey cards. I currently own a cheap Neewer card that has worked fine for my purposes so far, but I've always wondered how accurate it is. Because I intend to test some film stocks soon, I want to find one that I know is perfect. I've been thinking about getting the Kodak R-27 card, but the price tag of $27 for a piece of cardboard has made me hesitant to do so. I can't help but think that if I'm going to pay money for a reference like this, maybe I should look at other options as well. Does anyone have any grey card recommendations as well as advice on using one? Thanks.
  2. Hello everyone, I was doing some tests at my school with an Alexa. I wanted to do graphics with the different EI : Luma value of a Kodak grey card = f(stops from -10 to +10) basically. I wanted to do this both in Rec 709 and Log C but only did the 709 tests as of yet. For each EI I placed my "+0" by spot metering the grey card, but noticed two things. 1/ As I kind of suspected, it wasn't falling on the 50% IRE (512,512,512 when shooting Rec 709 in 10 bit) 2/ My Sekonic gives me half a stop of difference between spot metering of that 18% grey and incident reading (when the spot was reading 5.6, the incident gave 4 1/2) So I kind of have three different possibilties for my zero. Which one should I use ? Is that true that Sekonics are set to read 12.5% grey card instead of 18 (which I guess would explain the weird difference) When a cinematographer says he places a caucasian face on +1, which one of the three 'zeros' is he refering to ? Ultimately, do we place the grey card anywhere we want between say 30 and 50 as some people suggest ? That's all I have to ask for now, hope the questions make some sens ! And I hope it hasn't been asked and answered a thousand time. Tom Yanowitz, film student
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