Clapperboard Recommendations/ Dialing in 16mm can/ Still cam as Meter

Alain Lumina · March 28, 2009

I posted on "General" and no one answered, maybe my questions are too jejeune; sorry for repeating.

I'm going to be learning how to use my "new" Cinema Prodcuts CP-16r ( Ultra mod + CLA + Collam by Bernie) . I'm going to get Cinelicious to scan it, they say they can handle Ultra, I believe.

I obtained :

1) an assortment of short ends and 100 ft reels of [tested] different stocks 50d to 400t

2) a canon digital camera which has a shutter priority mode with spot, center and overall scene modes. I intend to use this as a light meter. Also it has a light density graph.

So I think I need a clapperboard to write settings on, so i will know which exposures match which settings.

I don't think it's worth it to get a $1000 timecode board, although I think it would be good to get one with a clock taped to it to help organize shots.... I know it sounds cheesy but if it's 80% of the benefit for 20% of the cost....

I'm also deciding between a Tascam HD recorder which takes time code, and a Korg mr1000 which has super fidelity I'm told but no time code.

The cam is crystal, but I think this type of shooting is still considered "wild," yes?, because cam and sound recorder aren't linked.

Any obvious total misunderstandings there, enlighten me, thanks.

Any recommendations ? Those color bars look like a good idea for post, yes? A gray card too?

Thanks!

Edited March 28, 2009 by Alain Lumina

Chris Keth · March 28, 2009

Hi, Alain. Recording sound on a different medium than the picture is what's referred to as "double system." "Wild" is when the sound recordist is recording sound and there is no associated picture being recorded.

Color bars will do you absolutely no good. Those are for calibrating a monitor to a video signal. The graycard is useful to shoot, though. It's dead neutral 18% gray and is a standard that any colorist knows.

I can't really advise you on the sound recorder, though I will say that lack of timecode can be a real pain in the butt.

You really don't need a timecode slate. That would be total overkill. I'm not sure why you would tape a clock to the slate. You just label the scenes and takes and you have everything you need there. Having the time of day wouldn't really help you. You just need a plain jane slate with sticks. You label it, clap it and that's all you need to sync sound and picture as well as adequately label takes.

The still camera isn't a bad idea for a meter but I would really suggest getting an incident lightmeter and learning to use it. With some time and experience, you will use it to light scenes as well as expose properly and it will be as useful, if not more so, than the camera which can mislead you.

I also strongly recommend you track down a copy of the book Cinematography and read it through once and keep it for reference. It explains a lot of the things you're asking about in a very good format. Many libraries have it (the second edition is fine, too, but it doesn't have anything in the way of HD information)

Edited March 28, 2009 by Chris Keth