TRI-X Latitude

[Benjamin Kasulke]

What exposure latitude can one expect from Tri-X when processing normally... I know it is fairly unforgiving but I would like to see some numbers....many thanks....

[K Borowski]

Are you referring to Tri-X Reversal? Lol, wait, that's the only one available in cine format. Sorry, I come from a still background. Latitude of any reversal stock is going to be extremely limited, although Tri-X will give you much more latitude than K40A or Plus-X. I'd figure maybe a stop or a stop and a half of underexposure and a half stop to full stop of overexposure. Why do you ask? Have you exposed footage incorrectly, or trying to figure out the amount of latitude this stock gives you? What format are you shooting in? If in 16mm rather than 8mm, there are always the negative stocks as an alternative. If you are looking for greater latitude and flexibility, then why not use them?

 

Regards.

~Karl Borowski

[Benjamin Kasulke]

Karl,

 

Thanks for the quick reply... I am gearing up for a Super 8 feature and have not shot any Tri-X since 1997... It is mostly for a refresher. I thought I remembered the 3 stops of latitude (one under, one over) but I just wanted to get some feedback from people who have been shooting Tri-X more consistently... I am hoping for a lot of contrast and grain the size of golf balls....

 

Thanks again,

 

Ben

[John Pytlak RIP]

Here's the technical data:

 

http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/products...1.4.4.8.8&lc=en

 

New KODAK TRI-X Reversal Film 7266 offers finer grain and increased sharpness, and includes EASTMAN KEYKODE Numbers for easy cross-reference of shots in minutes, not hours. Reduced static support allows for a cleaner image throughout the filmmaking process. And because our new films don?t require processing in a bleach containing heavy metals, they?re easier on the environment. Our improved films provide the rich blacks and excellent contrast you've come to expect from KODAK Black-and-White Reversal Films.

 

Hope we didn't make the grain too fine for your desired "look". ;)

 

Here is the older film:

 

http://www.kodak.com/US/en/motion/products....4.4.8.14&lc=en

[K Borowski]

I must confess to never shooting Tri-X Reversal, either the '66 or the '78. I've shot plenty of 5063 (Tri-X still) and Foma 100 in 8mm though, and I know what shooting a slow speed reversal film (like K64 and K40A) is like. It's always best to err on the side of underexposure, but even better to run tests first if possible. In the stills industry, this is known as "bracketing" You can either shoot polaroids if there's a stock that you feel gives you an idea of how Tri-X will handle, or if you're as poor as I am (probably the case if you're using 8 ), shoot a couple of quickie shots on 8mm and process at home, maybe 10 feet worth. I use more DR8, which is much easier to break apart as it is on a spool just like the bigger formats, whereas if you're shooting S8, the cartridge kinda means you'll have to shoot a whole cartridge of tests. However, if you're really good with metering, you can probably get by without any tests, but make sure you have a good, accurate meter, a good grey card, and some accessory lighting if you want your results to look good. I know it must be tempting to do everything by available light. I myself am a fan of realism, but a carefully placed fill here and there can really help. As for the new Tri-X vs. old Tri-X, I wouldn't worry to much about a big reduction in grain at least as far as 8mm is concerned. The difference should be minimal with such a small frame. From what I've heard Tri-X is much less affected by the new process than is Plus-X, which has the affect of being pushed one stop in the new process. If you're home processing your footage, you can develop the film with whatever process you want. I personally like working with car battery acid as opposed to whatever organization Mr. Pytlak is working for ;) If you do find that the new Tri-X is too smooth for the look you're going for, you can always push it one stop, which will increase grain and maybe help your latitude by a half stop or so. As for shooting S8, I would consider using either: DR8, DS8, or 16mm shortends instead. The advantage is that you can get better rates using 16mm gauge film in processing, and you might be able to find a deal with 16mm short ends if you check the right places. If all you have is a standard S8 camera though, then go with it, but don't trust the meter or the automatic exposure controls. Best of luck.

 

Regards.

~Karl Borowski

[Sam Wells]

I've shot lots of (16mm) Tri-X. My best advice is to nail the exposure. Do you mean range or over/underexposure latitude ? I wouldn't over or underexpose it except for effect.

 

Typically you'd want significant detail within ~ 5 stop range I'd say.

 

-Sam

[K Borowski]

I agree with Sam. I am saying though that given the choice between over- and underexposure, one is best off underexposing reversal film, as opposed to the common wisdom with color negative of overexposing when in doubt. If your meter is sporadic and you're not sure what part of the scene to meter for, go on the low side if you want to play it safe but cannot afford the luxury of tests or a good spot meter.

 

Regards.

~Karl