splicing

[J.M. O'Malley]

I am looking at a Griswold splicer for $59. Anybody know anything about these? I've also found a couple of recipes for splicing cement and I don't know if they are usable. One calls for film chips to be dissolved in acetone. Another uses acetic acid, acetone, and only the acetate support of a small length of film.

[Chris Keth]

I am looking at a Griswold splicer for $59. Anybody know anything about these? I've also found a couple of recipes for splicing cement and I don't know if they are usable. One calls for film chips to be dissolved in acetone. Another uses acetic acid, acetone, and only the acetate support of a small length of film.

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Never heard of them. I'd try to find a Rivas, great splicers.

 

Are ou cutting prints or negative?

[John Pytlak RIP]

I used to use Griswold splicers when I was a projectionist during college (1967-1970), when mostly triacetate base prints was used for release prints. The ones I used were "cold" splicers with a wide overlap, and would NOT be recommended for use in splicing original films.

 

For something as important as splicing camera original, why do you want to risk using "home brew" cement?

[Chris Keth]

For something as important as splicing camera original, why do you want to risk using "home brew" cement?

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Definately listen to John here. Think about it. If you screw up, you can't fix it. Use the right stuff and learn to do it well on junk stock first.

[J.M. O'Malley]

What about a "hot splicer" then? Is this recommended? Where might I buy commercially prepared cement?

I plan to do a lot of practicing on a test roll first.

[Chris Keth]

What about a "hot splicer" then? Is this recommended? Where might I buy commercially prepared cement?

I plan to do a lot of practicing on a test roll first.

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If you know how to use them. Commercial cement shoul be available wherever you get splicers, tape, cores, etc.

[Marty Hamrick]

What about a "hot splicer" then? Is this recommended? Where might I buy commercially prepared cement?

I plan to do a lot of practicing on a test roll first.

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I used the Griswald splicer for prints like John said and some home projects (original reversal for direct projection),but I definitely would not want to use it for something that would go through a contact printer.

I've used the Bell and Howell and the Maier Hancock hot splicers (they're identical) and the 16,35,65-70 foot pedal splicer for dark room splicing print stock.John P.ever use the foot pedal splicer?I forget who made it.

[John Pytlak RIP]

Here is a link to Kodak Film Cements, carried by many dealers of editorial supplies:

 

http://www.kodak.com/US/plugins/acrobat/en...og/access04.pdf

 

KODAK Film Cement 16 oz can 1956176

KODAK Film Cement 1 gal 1956150

KODAK Fast Drying Film Cement, No. 30115, 1 pt 1669738

 

 

I believe the old foot-operated splicers were made by Bell and Howell. A surprising number are still in use.

 

Here's a pretty good splicing tutorial:

 

http://www.city-net.com/~fodder/edit/art1.html

[Jack Honeycutt]

You can buy small bottles of Kodak splicing cement direct from Kodak for about $6.00 each. They are 1/2 oz bottles with a nice brush.

 

Call 1-800-621-3456. Ask to buy Catalong # 101-0669. Ask for the cheapest shipping option. That will run you $2 or $3. You don't need a account with Kodak, and you can buy just one bottle or a thousand.

 

jack