ASA of Sony HVR-Z1U

Mickey Grant · March 2, 2005

I don't currently have a waveform monitor and wanted to see if anyone on this board has figured out what "asa" the HVR-Z1U is when shooting it normal and what the ASA is at the different gain settings?

I like to take incident readings with a meter when it's possible.My Webpage

rsellars · March 15, 2005

I recently shot with the Z1 and the FX1 for 12 days on a documentary shoot. Coming from a film background, I also like to know the approximate ASA rating of any video camera that I use. I shot some preliminary tests comparing the Z1 and FX1 to my Panasonic DVX100. I did not use a waveform monitor, but by using 100% zebras and an incident light meter, I have estimated the DVX to be about 500 ASA. I was busy testing many things, but I roughly estimate the Z1 and FX1 to be a full 2 stops slower (125 ASA) than the DVX! This is the trade off for much higher resolution, better color rendition, and better highlight detail. This is a good ballpark estimate until you can do your own tests. My conclusion after shooting under many different coditions - great camera for day exteriors and bright interiors (such as flourescent). Otherwise, supplemental lighting is definitely needed. Night exteriors without a decent lighting package are problematic. A few work arounds that I found useful: Increase the gain. I got a very clean signal even at +6db - I was amazed! When possible shoot at 1/30 shutter speed to gain back another stop of light.

Bob Hayes · August 3, 2005

I find the XL 1s to be about 160 ASA

The PD 150 to be about 400 ASA

The Some Z1U to be about 160 ASA

Michael Morlan · August 8, 2005

Remember that the camera's sensetivity can change drastically based on your choice of "creative" settings. For instance I found the DVX100 to be a 400ASA at 60i but beomes a 200ASA camera at 24p. (Don't ask me why.)

You can determine your own ASA with a grey card and light meter (either incident or spot.) To do so:

o Set the camera to your preferred settings (and document them assiduously for your camera team to replicate on set)

o light an 18% grey card

o use the camera's auto-exposure to set the iris and note the f-stop

o match the camera's exposure speed on your meter

o use your meter to measure either the card (spot) or the light (incident.) Adjust the meter's ASA until it reads a similar f-stop.

You now have your camera's ASA for your given creative settings.

All that said, I find that I only use the meter when I am getting familiar with a film/video speed I haven't used before or in awhile. Typically, I light by eye then use my spot meter to look for problem spots or to match difficult lighting setups. I also keep 100% zebras on the camera's viewfinder at ALL times to watch out for clipping. It's better close the iris slightly if you don't have time to tone down a hot spot and risk underexposing video slightly.

I measured the HVR-Z1U at 125ASA for 30p.

Bob Hayes · August 10, 2005

I?ve been using my meter to shoot with the Z1U. It is so slow. I set my meter at 160 ASA. But realizing the lens is really an F 2.8. I totally misjudged my night exterior package. I though I could get by with 4 2ks, 4 1ks, 3 650s. It went up to 3 5ks, 6 2ks, 2 1ks, and 3 650s. Ooops. My first night which was really a test was 3 stops under exposed. I?m really trying to keep my package size and costs down.

I?m shooting in a forest clearing. I?ll try to get a waveform on the camera but it has been raining.

I'm shooting in the P1 setting.

Rating might be closer to 125 ASA.

Bob Hayes · August 11, 2005

I?m continuing my night exterior shoot night two. I like the Z1 but it sure needs a lot of light. Using two 5 Ks for back light and I still don?t have enough light. We are shooting with two cameras. I?m trying to light my exteriors with my meter at 120. But Because of light needs I switch my meter to 160 ASA. Add a couple of branch shadows and I?m down to a 2.4 reading at 160 ASA. Now when I zoom in on the tight camera the loss of a stop is deadly. Although I must admit I am used to 400 ASA with lenses that go to 1.4 if I need it. So it is a huge difference. I am thinking of shooting the tighter camera at +3 DB.

Michael Morlan · August 13, 2005

I read, in another thread, that +3dB on the Z1U is essentially "free" since it introduces next to no noise. That'll give you a stop back.

Sony really engineered this camera conservatively. No low-light level boasting for them.

Lucita Jones · April 14, 2006

I think this approach might work:

Before setting any lights, set the zebra to 100 and check for clipping areas. Correct them (NDs, black silk, etc.)

Then switch camera to 70IRE and light the scene for your desired T stop.

Fianlly, switch to 100 zebra to check any oither highlight that might have.

Since I havent tried this approach, Id light to know your opinion...

Thanks

LJ

andres victorero · April 15, 2006

I´ve shot my last short (DP) with a FX1.

I made some test (tungsten light aim to a grey card and a waveform monitor)) and I found the ASA rate in 160 ASA but this ratting didn´t work in a clody day. I found that the ASA could be arround 120-130 ASA but I´m not sure.

I shot with the great help of DV rack (vectorscope-waveform, monitor, etc)

The FX1 Z1 cams are great cam, they deliver great images but is a very sssslooow (ASA) cam :angry: is a hard problem if you haven´t a lot of light. :(

Canney · April 28, 2006

Heres what I got

PD-170 ASA 300

HVR-Z1U ASA 160

HDR-FX1 ASA 180

Compareing the Z1u to the FX1 the Z1u has better picture quality with less noise. But comparing some of the cameras ASA's can be troublesome cause of the different sizes in lenses and lighting and stuff. I do two tests usually one in the day time and one at 5 lux at night.

Edited April 28, 2006 by Canney

Matt Sandstrom · April 30, 2006

Compareing the Z1u to the FX1 the Z1u has better picture quality with less noise.

really? i thought they were essentially the same camera just with different options and settings.

/matt

Canney · May 1, 2006

No the Sony was a bit quick releasing the FX1 and it had problems with maintaing motion stability around curves or outlines in the image. It was also a bit more grainy when it came to blacks. The Z1U doesn't have those problems cause it came out a bit later and sony took the time to fix any bugs that were in existence. The FX1 was essentially sony's prototype and the Z1U a finished product.

Matt Sandstrom · May 1, 2006

i see. thanks. i've been using the fx1e though, which i think is even more recent? did they incorporate those fixes in that?

/matt

Canney · May 1, 2006

I think the fx1e is in the same group as the fx1. But if you have a higher serial or later model they might have fixed any problems. The fx1 I had was like the 1021'st made. My Z1u is like 9070'th made.

Edited May 1, 2006 by Canney