Canney

I've come back from the Blackhole in the world to say this. Two will battle and one will win. I'm putting my money on thee blueray discs. Ihave seen both in Bestbuy and Sony Style and people seem to be more interested in it. Pluswhen I went to see a Blueray versus HD DVD demonstration Sony was doing in their store, Blueray came out looking better for quality on the split screen demo they had. In all honesty I don't see a split format thing honestly going to be that big really. Plus out where I'm from HD-DVD has been around and hasn't been catching on. Blueray is and I think thats going to be the next format. I say in five years everything will be Blueray and DVD will be gone.

Is kodak closing the plant in Peabody MA? I've heard rumors and was wondering if they're true.

What is up with all the emo kids taking over the world lately? Anyways the video was nicely done I say.

There is another solution but it mights be a little costly. You could you LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) televisions and screens. Frame rates and sync's are not a problem with LCD screens, because electricity is shot though liquid crystal which changes and morphs it into different shapes and colors to produce images and it doesn't use scanning at all. I've shot it with film and video for years and have never had a problem.

Okay heres what I have to say. 1. Doesn't any one make paragraphs any more. I hate trying to read blobs. 2. A bunch of corolotations and random facts can be connected to prove and idea. 3. Kodak has taken a blow and its stock has gone down because of digital cameras in the market. Back in they day you had only one choice, film. Now you have reusable digital that is taking a chunk of the image pie.

Any general house oil would be good for lubrication.

I say just use the format and post-setup you think you will be most comfortable with. Also depends on what type of computer you have.

Well you can go from one format to another one with relative ease like in the guys instructions above. Its just as simple as clicking and dragging from one sequence to another.

I shoot outside with the built in 85 filter in my camera. The footage came out with normal colors and looked fine. Normals colors. My camera was also one of the last super model S8 cameras made by B&H so that also might have something to do with it. But I like the stock. I think people rag on it too much because they are POD at kodak for discontinuing Kodachrome and stuff.

If your just looking to fool around with film then go with the super 8. Its a lot cheaper than sixteen.

Hey has anyone ever played around with the Constant slowmotion effects in FCP. I did it for HDV footage the other day and it was incredible as to how the fluidity of the image movment was maintained. It looked like over cranked film. I took the same raw footage and converted it down to SD. Then I did the slowmotion effects on the SD and it was kind of blurred in the movement like always. I was wondering if any one else has noticed this. Thinks it has something to do with how High Def works.

In post production you can increase the brightness by doing a gamma and highlight correction. I would decrease the gamma to around .84 and it should improve the picture's visibilty and keep color deteroiration to a minimal. I'll do some test on your pics and get back to you. Due note when changeing the gama to a lower setting the picture will lose color and become B&W. My recommendation however is if you can refilm then do it, keeping everything that the people above said in mind. Doing corrections for severe problems in post is only as a last resort because there is only so much you can do.

If you got some old stuff like that and if its in real good condition it could be worth up to $100 on ebay. Sometimes the old retro stuff in new condition does hold some value.

Good news my idea for running the film through 2 wet cotton balls and 6 dry cotton balls for drying seems to work. I got half the sploches off and more of the red die. I will do it again but more slowly tommorow and it should get the rest of everything on there. Plus that link of the film care book I have seen it before and yes it does contain a lot of usefull info for everything.

Alright here are pics results from cleaning using two methods. A dry, clean velevet cloth and a vacum with velvet on the attachments to prevent abrasions, running the film throught a seald box as well. Before cleaning After the cleaning with a dry velvet cloth Before cleaning After cleaning with the vacum with velvet on the attachment The dry velvet gets the larger pieces of dust off but seems to moves the dirt specs around. The Vacum gets it all. I tried velvet with isproypll on the cloth to clean but the die on the cloth ran and got it on the film. I washed the film quickly and improperly with 3 baths off 70% Isopropyl and 30%distilled water cause I had nothing else to get the red dye off. I got most of the die off but now the film is sploched cause I could properly dry it in time. How would I clean it to get sploches off. Like you now how a sweaty glass leaves water rings on the table when you don't use a coaster. Any body have a suggestion. I'm looking through the kodak links that were posted on cleaning right now. I am thinking of attemtping another try with they isopropyll but with but will use a cotton marteial to wet clean it, then I will clean the dust and cotton bits off with the vacum and dry velvet teqnique. What I am looking for is a hand cleaning method of removing sploches. I think one of the Iso chemicals on kodaks website mights actually be lying around some where I will have to look.

The following was all done on a test reel so not to worry. Okay I've done some various cleaning on the film and I'll post the pics tommorow but I got a problem. I was using the velet with pure isopropyl alcohol to clean the film. But I didn't notice until I was done that the die in the velvet that was red in color had run pretty badly. I didn't have enough pure isoproyle to do an emergency wash so I had to use 70% Isopropyl, 30% distilled water. I know it would weaken the film but heh better that than red die dryed all over it. The first bath turned entirely red, I then did two more baths of the film on the reel entirely in the solution and got a lot of the die off. It only shows up on a few spots. But the problem is I wasn't able to dry it in time because there was to much film so now it's got dry sploches and spots all over the film. Does any one have any suggestions as to how I can get this off before I try anything else. But yeah I'll think I'll stick to the vacum and dry cleaning techniques.

I would ask the people who sold u the camera how to turn it on but there could be another thing. If you camera has a little power safety switch that you must push in order to activate and run the camera, the wire that runs to it and the cameras main body could have become separated. This usually happens when it ages or snags when moving the handel between the postion for filming and storage. If so you should be able to detach the handel and resoilder it but this is only if it is an extreame case.

If I recall correctly the 3ccd chips on the DVX100 are native for 4:3 recording and when you film in 16:9 you are loseing a bit of resolution cause it isn't using the chip in full, even for the squeeze mode. I think it uses an aquasition mode which maintains a higher quality 16:9 image and uses more of the chip but not all of it. Thus still loses resolution when compared to a 16:9 native chip camera.

Those guys in Boston had me take a free stress test. Then they tried to get me to by there book called Dyanetics. Telling me it would make my life better and stuff. And there church on 400 Beacon street is funded by the publisher. They seem kind of like a scam people to me.

I've read through all the threads twice. I liked the part about old projection rroms being blast proff. Okay tests on select films for nitrate base acrid smell: positive Black Light flouresence: Postive sinks in trichlorethylene: stole some from a chem lab upstairs: unsure the stuff floated in the middle The id methods from the second thread you posted worked the best. But yeah I am pretty sure its nitrate film. I have the can's air out side in front of a fan. I'll be transfering them all this week in pairs of six. That way I can give the place time to ventalate and I'll be sure to wear my gas mask. One question whats are Molecular Sieves?

Don't trust the x-ray machines. Last summer my and my pals shoot off 12 rolls of S8mm Tri-X. Well my friends cousin Fannigan took them back with him to Ireland to get them developed cause he knew a guy who would do it for cheap. Well due to a system error his name was mismatched with another's whose was similar and it came up as IRA. Customs blatantly denied his request for a hand insepction, ingored anything he said. They had no Idea what a super 8 film cartridge looked like or was. They X-Rayed everything single roll. Well they ruined all the film and fogged out all the images badly. Well he went after them and the airline and got them to reimburse him for the film, processing and then some but still our porject was ruined. :angry: Don't bring film with you to the airport. Ship it to where you'll be in advance or get it locally and then ship it home. Better safe then sorry.

I just checked the film. Ahh some of the film on a couple rolls is has a "like paper" texture and structually. I know not to project it but just how bad is that?

Actually what I do with S8 mm is film in PAL for 24fps and NTSC for 18fps. I usually lock in the shutter speed on my camera and don't get any flicker at all. My camera has multiple shutter steps so its not really an issue for me when it comes to illimintaing flicker, my camera does a pretty good job of that even when it on auto. The thing is I just need to know if a certain projector can play back at a certian frame rate. I was curiouse as the the specifics of the B&H projectors cause I can find them cheap enough on ebay. But actually I might just get one and make a five blade shutter for it out of sheet metal. It would be cheaper than buying an elmo projector with one built in. That way I wouldn't have to shoot PAL and then convert to NTSC like I normally do for 24 fps. The reason I was asking about if the B&H projectors had a 18fps options on them was because I can eliminate the flicker through the camera and go straight to NTSC. I am not sure about what speed the 30,800 feet of film I was given to transfer was shoot at but I would probably guess 24 fps. So I'll either by some projector and make a crazy contraption out of it or will shoot PAL and then transfer. As to the tobin systems I have looked into them before and have considered it along with the sniper systems. If I get into film more I probably will get one. But for now I have to keep it cheap.

Okay thanks for your help I appreciate this info. Okay I looked at the films where I can smell vinegar and stuff and there are no makers on the edge as to what kind of film it is. These are old football films which were filmed long ago by private contractors so they might have made there own film stocks or used alternative brands for whatever cost reason. So I am going to assume half of the stock is nitrate film because when I went over it with a ultraviolet lamp it showed up glowy and it smells like cheamicals. After reading about the chemical dangers in your post I kind of wished I hadn't been sticking my nose in the stuff to smell it. These films were stored for 26 years in a dry place but it was hot in the storage room there so they might have been speed up deterioration wise. Especially in sealed cans. So I'll exercise extreame caution in handling the stuff. The film doesn't show any shings of shrinkage so I think projection wise it will hold up. Normally I would send out the films to have the stuff transfered but since I am doing this as a favor for people I can't really be spending a whole lot of money.

What I got Okay I got a huge project. I got about 77 canisters of 400feet reels. Totalling 30,800 feet. That's like 14 hours 15 min at 24 fps or 19 hours at 18fps. The dates of the films range from 1960 to 1979. It is double pref B&W. About half the containers have a range of various deteriorating smell. The Plan I am not doing anything fancy. Maintaining 100% quality is not an issue. What I plan to do is get a projector and shoot it off the wall. Simple as that. I use a projected image of 2 foot diagonle measure on the screen to get the best image. All the cameras setting are locked ina t manual. I have done this many times before and the quality comes out very good. The format I will be going to is Mini DV SP. I don't get shutter flicker doing this. When I transfer at 18 fps I shoot NTSC and when it 24fps I shoot PAL. With my cameras and stuff at these rates I don't get any flicker at all, so it works out. I can then convert video formats after as needed no problem. Questions 1. The film is old. What should I look out for? It's got the vinegar and ugly smells. I always play the film through once and examine it for damage and deteriated splices. Is there anything I should expect like the film randomly breaking in spots from age cause I have had that happen with the 8mm I did fromt he same source. Oh yeah some of the stuff I got form these people is film fromt he era of and actually Kodak Safety Film. Should I look out for any older films that might not be fire safe. If so what are they called? 2. Does any one have a recomendation for a cheap projector? I have a lot of various 8 and S8mm projectors but no 16mm. Does any one have a recomendation for a 16mm projector. I am looking for one particulaly that will play at 18fps that way I can go right to NTSC and DVD. I'm looking to keep it under $100. Something I could get off of ebay would be great. I have one eyed right now. 3. Any comments or suggestions? The Goal Doing a rank or other real telecine is out of the question cause of cost. So the goal is "keep it dirt cheap".