Heinrich Kronschläger
-
Posts
18 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by Heinrich Kronschläger
-
-
My experiences with the Nikon R-10 and R-8:
If you use an artifical-light-based film ( a cart with the notch for the filter-pin ): If Inserting the filter-key the iris closes 2/3 steps at the R-10 AND the R-8.
But if you use a daylight-based film ( a cart without the notch for the filter-pin ): If inserting the filter-key it has no effect at the R-10
( my R-10 is OK ) , but at the R-8 the iris will be closed 2/3 steps ( my R-8 is OK ).
With daylight-based films you don`t need the filter key, because the filter-pin in the camera swings the filter out ( as it was said before ).
-
Hallo David and Peter,
I own both, Nikon R-10 and R-8 cameras. If you use daylight balanced films, the cart turns the filter out. Therefore leave the filter-key out.
But: Nikon R-10 and R-8 have different exposure-systems !
Inserting the filter-key at the R-10 has had no effect.
But: Inserting the filter-key at the Nikon R-8 has the effect, that the iris closes 2/3 steps ( 2 ASA ) !
Kind regards
Henry
-
Hello,
I like the Sankyo for day trips,as it is very light in weight, but gives very sharp images. Also, the macro is good ..
I bought my Sankyo for 1 euro ($ 1.3).
I also had a problem with my camera: The camera always worked excellent. until it had a total failure .It did no longer go running.
I opened the camera and noticed the defect: The switch for 18/24/40 !!The switch is fixed at the back of the board with a screw and secured with varnish,too. This screw was loose. It was easy to fix it.
My favorite camera is the Nikon R-10, absolutely reliable , it never had a failure. The pictures are amazingly sharp, as It has 2 claws (the second holds the film for a moment like a woodpecker, when shooting .).But it is often difficult to find a well-functioning Nikon R-10. Anyone who owns a Nikon R-10, he never sell it ( if he is still shooting with Super 8).
Henry
-
Kelsey,take a look into the camera. The Sankyo is very easy to open on the side of the switches. At this side there are 4 screws. One screw is hidden , you find it between the switches of 18/24/40 and the intervalometer.Then the cover can be folded away. Also, the underlying board is fixed with screws and can be pulled out. But I do not know how your problem can be fixed.
Kind regards
Henry
-
Hello Steve,
I always leave the switch at +1 in the water and above the water. Before I was planing to use the Nautica with the Velvia 50 on vacation on the island of Rhodes (Greece), I made test shots at home in the garden. The images were best at + 1, otherwise underexposed.
Do not forget to close the eyepiece with the rubber at the eyecup when underwater shooting. Shure you will have turned the lever near the lens to PMA.If I shoot underwater , I always have to look for air bubbles between the objective lens and PMA.Sometimes I have not noticed that . The air bubbles were clearly visible in the projection of the film
Kind regards
Henry
-
Hello Steve,
I always use the automatic exposure control of the Nautica. When shooting underwater I sometimes move the camera out of the water ( very interesting effect ), these shootings are OK. I always use the camera in PMA mode. The shots above water should not be against the light, otherwise the images will be too dark
Kind regards
Henry
-
When using Wittner V50D you will get best results underwater with your Nautica
with the switch +1 on
and don`t forget in the cassette compartment filter at lamp !
Kind regards
Henry
-
I tested the UWL III ( suitable for Schneider lenses ) with the Nikon R-10
Result : NOT REALLY SHARP
Best regards
Henry
-
My experiences with 3 Nikon R-10 cameras :
With the Wittnerchrome 100 ( Ektachrome 100 ) you have to close the aperture by 2/3 steps,
With the Wittnerchrome V50 ( Velvia ) the same .
If you put in the filter-key, there is no difference, the aperture doesn`t change.
I don`t know about Spectra films etc.
At the Nikon R-10 you can easily close the aperture at the side of the camera ( for all shootings ).
Kind regards
Henry
-
Recently I bought an Elmo 1012 and made some tests.
I inserted a cart of Kodachrome 40 and changed to artifical light ( 40 ASA ). When I inserted a cart of Velvia ( from Wittner ) or a cart of E-100 ( from Wittner ) there was always the same f-stop ( 40 ASA ) . So I think, the Velvia is the best for the Elmo 1012, with the E-100 you have to compensate.
Kind regards
Henry
-
"So you have to insert the filter key using the R-8 and DAYLIGHT FILM"
Not correct.
I did some tests with the R-10 and R-8 and K 40 compared with E 100. Inserting the filter key at the R-8 the film will be underexposed 2/3 f-stop. Now I am waiting for the test cart I shooted.
Kind regards
-
Hello users of a Nikon R-8,
recently I received the first cards of the E 100 and tested it with the Nikon R -10 and with the R-8.
If I insert the new E 100 into a R-10 , the cart presses the pushbutton under the film gate and the built-in filter swing out . If I put in the filter-key the meter-needle ramains stationary.
With the R-8 and the E 100 :
If I push the filter key in , the camera does not register that the built-in filter swung out , because the meter-needle moves 2/3 f-stop toward higher level. If I press the pushbutton in the cartrige-box the meter-needle does not move .
So you have to insert the filter-key if using the NIKON R-8 and a DAYLIHT-FILM. With the R-10 not.
Anyone else with similar experiences ?
Nikon R-8 : If you place in two 1,5 V cells instead of 1,35 V cells you have to overexposure 1/2 to 2/3 f-stop.
Kind regards
Henry
-
Thanks Henry... I'll try this. Where you having an issue with the whole camera not working when you pull the triger? Or just the meter?
thanks,
adam
I don`t know if the whole camera was not working . I stayed in Italy and had a film in the camera. Pulling half the trigger, the lightmeter-needle didn`t move , so I cleaned the contacts with a nailfile and the camera was ok
Kind regards
Henry
-
Hello Adam!
I had the very same problem with a Nikon R-10.
I rubbed the contacts inside the handle-grip with sandpaper , the contacts of the batterie-box too, and the problem was solved.
Kind regards
Henry
-
-
I have heard , a Nikon R-10 can hardly be repaired , if the lightmeter-needle is stuck .
Too much money for a camera, which does not work. I would try to get the money back from the seller !
Henry
-
Hi,
I use 4 Nikon R-10 and they are my favourite cameras. 3 work perfectly, the other : the mechanics work correct,but many shootings with the wide angle are unsharp. I have to adjust the lens in a recommended workshop in Vienna.
I bought 3 of these cameras on ebay, one of them works perfectly ,at the second the OL had to be repaired, I had it to sent to a workshop in Germany twice , until it was correct. The third camera of ebay looked like new, it hardly was used,but I could not use it: dry running(very noisy), the lightmeter uncorrect- +2 steps, the lightmeter-needle only moved very slowly. I sent that camera to a Nikon workshop in Germany, I received in the exchange of the repair costs (those would have been very high) another R-10, which functions are perfect.
My experiences with the Nikon R-10: If it functions, then it runs and runs and runs. It does not break down as fast as other cameras: My Nizo professional had a total failure from one day to the next , with my 2 Bauer A-512 suddenly the OL does not work any more, with my Nizo 6080 several functions do not work longer perfectly....
Thus I make all films only with the Nikon`s.
A problem of a R-10 is the lightmeter, which can be dejusted because of the years. The lightmeter can be simply adjusted by a suitable workshop.
At film demonstrations in the filmclub I saw that the Nikon is as sharp as the legendary Augenieux objective, sharper than a Nizo. Someone said that the Nikon is sharper than the Leicina special with the Schneider- Optivaron (not the 10 mm Cinegon).
If one is shooting nature films, then the R-10 is one of the best because of the fine macro.
Best regards
Henry
Travelling with negative film
in Super-8
Posted
One month ago I traveled from Europe to Southamerica with 25 cartridges Velvia 50 and Velvia 100. I always asked for hand check and it always had been done. The carts were not x-ray-ed elsewhere ! Otherwise, the films would had been sent 4 x through the scanner.
2 years ago I traveled to Myanmar. Hand luggage went all in all 8 x through the X-ray machines. Handcheck of the cartridges ( Velvia ) was almost always possible ( even in Myanmar ), except 1 x at the airport of Kuala Lumpur.