Heinrich Kronschläger

One month ago I traveled from Europe to Southamerica with 25 cartridges Velvia 50 and Velvia 100. I always asked for hand check and it always had been done. The carts were not x-ray-ed elsewhere ! Otherwise, the films would had been sent 4 x through the scanner. 2 years ago I traveled to Myanmar. Hand luggage went all in all 8 x through the X-ray machines. Handcheck of the cartridges ( Velvia ) was almost always possible ( even in Myanmar ), except 1 x at the airport of Kuala Lumpur.

My experiences with the Nikon R-10 and R-8: If you use an artifical-light-based film ( a cart with the notch for the filter-pin ): If Inserting the filter-key the iris closes 2/3 steps at the R-10 AND the R-8. But if you use a daylight-based film ( a cart without the notch for the filter-pin ): If inserting the filter-key it has no effect at the R-10 ( my R-10 is OK ) , but at the R-8 the iris will be closed 2/3 steps ( my R-8 is OK ). With daylight-based films you don`t need the filter key, because the filter-pin in the camera swings the filter out ( as it was said before ).

Hallo David and Peter, I own both, Nikon R-10 and R-8 cameras. If you use daylight balanced films, the cart turns the filter out. Therefore leave the filter-key out. But: Nikon R-10 and R-8 have different exposure-systems ! Inserting the filter-key at the R-10 has had no effect. But: Inserting the filter-key at the Nikon R-8 has the effect, that the iris closes 2/3 steps ( 2 ASA ) ! Kind regards Henry

Hello, I like the Sankyo for day trips,as it is very light in weight, but gives very sharp images. Also, the macro is good .. I bought my Sankyo for 1 euro ($ 1.3). I also had a problem with my camera: The camera always worked excellent. until it had a total failure .It did no longer go running. I opened the camera and noticed the defect: The switch for 18/24/40 !! The switch is fixed at the back of the board with a screw and secured with varnish,too. This screw was loose. It was easy to fix it. My favorite camera is the Nikon R-10, absolutely reliable , it never had a failure. The pictures are amazingly sharp, as It has 2 claws (the second holds the film for a moment like a woodpecker, when shooting .). But it is often difficult to find a well-functioning Nikon R-10. Anyone who owns a Nikon R-10, he never sell it ( if he is still shooting with Super 8). Henry

Kelsey,take a look into the camera. The Sankyo is very easy to open on the side of the switches. At this side there are 4 screws. One screw is hidden , you find it between the switches of 18/24/40 and the intervalometer.Then the cover can be folded away. Also, the underlying board is fixed with screws and can be pulled out. But I do not know how your problem can be fixed. Kind regards Henry

Hello Steve, I always leave the switch at +1 in the water and above the water. Before I was planing to use the Nautica with the Velvia 50 on vacation on the island of Rhodes (Greece), I made test shots at home in the garden. The images were best at + 1, otherwise underexposed. Do not forget to close the eyepiece with the rubber at the eyecup when underwater shooting. Shure you will have turned the lever near the lens to PMA. If I shoot underwater , I always have to look for air bubbles between the objective lens and PMA.Sometimes I have not noticed that . The air bubbles were clearly visible in the projection of the film Kind regards Henry

Hello Steve, I always use the automatic exposure control of the Nautica. When shooting underwater I sometimes move the camera out of the water ( very interesting effect ), these shootings are OK. I always use the camera in PMA mode. The shots above water should not be against the light, otherwise the images will be too dark Kind regards Henry

When using Wittner V50D you will get best results underwater with your Nautica with the switch +1 on and don`t forget in the cassette compartment filter at lamp ! Kind regards Henry

I tested the UWL III ( suitable for Schneider lenses ) with the Nikon R-10 Result : NOT REALLY SHARP Best regards Henry

My experiences with 3 Nikon R-10 cameras : With the Wittnerchrome 100 ( Ektachrome 100 ) you have to close the aperture by 2/3 steps, With the Wittnerchrome V50 ( Velvia ) the same . If you put in the filter-key, there is no difference, the aperture doesn`t change. I don`t know about Spectra films etc. At the Nikon R-10 you can easily close the aperture at the side of the camera ( for all shootings ). Kind regards Henry

Recently I bought an Elmo 1012 and made some tests. I inserted a cart of Kodachrome 40 and changed to artifical light ( 40 ASA ). When I inserted a cart of Velvia ( from Wittner ) or a cart of E-100 ( from Wittner ) there was always the same f-stop ( 40 ASA ) . So I think, the Velvia is the best for the Elmo 1012, with the E-100 you have to compensate. Kind regards Henry

"So you have to insert the filter key using the R-8 and DAYLIGHT FILM" Not correct. I did some tests with the R-10 and R-8 and K 40 compared with E 100. Inserting the filter key at the R-8 the film will be underexposed 2/3 f-stop. Now I am waiting for the test cart I shooted. Kind regards

Hello users of a Nikon R-8, recently I received the first cards of the E 100 and tested it with the Nikon R -10 and with the R-8. If I insert the new E 100 into a R-10 , the cart presses the pushbutton under the film gate and the built-in filter swing out . If I put in the filter-key the meter-needle ramains stationary. With the R-8 and the E 100 : If I push the filter key in , the camera does not register that the built-in filter swung out , because the meter-needle moves 2/3 f-stop toward higher level. If I press the pushbutton in the cartrige-box the meter-needle does not move . So you have to insert the filter-key if using the NIKON R-8 and a DAYLIHT-FILM. With the R-10 not. Anyone else with similar experiences ? Nikon R-8 : If you place in two 1,5 V cells instead of 1,35 V cells you have to overexposure 1/2 to 2/3 f-stop. Kind regards Henry

I don`t know if the whole camera was not working . I stayed in Italy and had a film in the camera. Pulling half the trigger, the lightmeter-needle didn`t move , so I cleaned the contacts with a nailfile and the camera was ok Kind regards Henry

Hello Adam! I had the very same problem with a Nikon R-10. I rubbed the contacts inside the handle-grip with sandpaper , the contacts of the batterie-box too, and the problem was solved. Kind regards Henry

At the Nikon R-8/10 you can easily pull off the leatherette when using a hair-dryer . But do not cook the camera ! Henry

I have heard , a Nikon R-10 can hardly be repaired , if the lightmeter-needle is stuck . Too much money for a camera, which does not work. I would try to get the money back from the seller ! Henry

Hi, I use 4 Nikon R-10 and they are my favourite cameras. 3 work perfectly, the other : the mechanics work correct,but many shootings with the wide angle are unsharp. I have to adjust the lens in a recommended workshop in Vienna. I bought 3 of these cameras on ebay, one of them works perfectly ,at the second the OL had to be repaired, I had it to sent to a workshop in Germany twice , until it was correct. The third camera of ebay looked like new, it hardly was used,but I could not use it: dry running(very noisy), the lightmeter uncorrect- +2 steps, the lightmeter-needle only moved very slowly. I sent that camera to a Nikon workshop in Germany, I received in the exchange of the repair costs (those would have been very high) another R-10, which functions are perfect. My experiences with the Nikon R-10: If it functions, then it runs and runs and runs. It does not break down as fast as other cameras: My Nizo professional had a total failure from one day to the next , with my 2 Bauer A-512 suddenly the OL does not work any more, with my Nizo 6080 several functions do not work longer perfectly.... Thus I make all films only with the Nikon`s. A problem of a R-10 is the lightmeter, which can be dejusted because of the years. The lightmeter can be simply adjusted by a suitable workshop. At film demonstrations in the filmclub I saw that the Nikon is as sharp as the legendary Augenieux objective, sharper than a Nizo. Someone said that the Nikon is sharper than the Leicina special with the Schneider- Optivaron (not the 10 mm Cinegon). If one is shooting nature films, then the R-10 is one of the best because of the fine macro. Best regards Henry