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Milton Reid

Basic Member
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About Milton Reid

  • Birthday 08/17/1953

Profile Information

  • Occupation
    Other
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Specialties
    Education<br />16mm timelapse<br />New Camera Technology

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  • Website URL
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  1. One quick fix would be to disengage the clockwork motor and get hold of an electric one which clips/screws on the side connecting with the 1:1 or 1:8 drive shaft. Look on ebay. The trouble is to vary camera spped one must vary voltage to motor but thats not too difficult. Older electic motors will not reach high speeds however due to corrosion and there may be instability even around 24fps. Don't even thik about shooting synch sound tho there are crystal motors available. I have never used one myself (crytal)but have made my own time lapse motors and they work fine. Not sure which model you have, mine are all RX 4 or 5 This will not work for any electric bolex H16EL.SBM,EBM only RX with screw sockets on the side to mount motors. Best info from Andrew Alden who publishes BOLEX BIBLE 1998 from UK
  2. I have been a bit puzzled about the technical ways these HDV cams claim to deliver 24p or Cine-look, cine-mode whatever. I haven't been shooting much for a while so excuse my ignorance. Every camera is either native i or p scan right ? The HDV cameras try to appeal to the prestige that goes with the film look by promising a 24p look even if the camera shoots interlaced. Others like Panasonic make a native 720p camera. I want to know why thepan/tilt strobing looks worse on all these cameras than it would shooting film at 24 fps. Even on the true 24p HD cameras I have seen at trade shows it looks worse. Sony has a new HD camera out, maybe the XD cam which I had a play with and I noticed the srobing in the viewfinder was a bit better than the HDV cameras but not much, certainly worse than what I was used to shooting 16mm at 24fps. On the other hand this camera was being fed to a HD monitor and I noticed the strobing was not as bad on the monitor as it was in the viewfinder. So there must be a data display issue here. My question is can I trust the stobing that appears in the viewfinder firstly on true 24p secondly fake 24p. Which of the fake 24p systems is the best and how do they work or try to work ? I would also appreciate a good explanation of true vs fake 24p and the editing issues.
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