Alberto Larios-Saavedra

Hello all, I'm looking for an SR3 battery charger, shoot me a message if you have one available.

Hello, is the lens still for sale?

How much for the grip truck? Could you send me pictures?

Thanks!

Eric Steelberg comes to mind.

Thanks for your interest JD.

 

Since my gaffer had his own meter for baselining HMI's, my meter has not been calibrated recently.

 

I just pulled it out and held it up to the household PAR 20 track lights in my closet and it read 2510K. A shot out my office window at a clear blue sky read 5300K. So it is "in the ballpark" but I'm sure the new owner would want to calibrate it.

 

Doyle

Have you sold the meter yet Doyle?

Awesome points all. I didn't consider the condensation issue, and I've actually had a full 100' roll end up with that weird flash after shooting on a ridiculously humid day. It was the weirdest flutter back and forth on the film and botched the whole thing unfortunately. I'd hate to cause that. I think the best advice is to just get it developed and work with the lab to figure out the balance later.

I kept some exposed film in my fridge for almost a year! Finally last month, I had it developed and transferred to HD and it actually looks pretty good to me.

"Midnight Cowboy" was not shot in 16mm...

 

Not all of these are famous:

 

Texas Chainsaw Massacre (original)

Evil Dead (first one)

John Water's films of the 1970's (like Pink Flamingos)

Ballad of Gregorio Cortez

Ruby in Paradise

Secaucus Seven

Liana

Roger and Me

Go Fish

Monsoon Wedding

Party Girl

Station Agent

Conspiracy

Never Die Alone

Chasing Amy

Magic Flute (Bergman version)

Scenes from a Marriage(?)

Cold Comfort Farm

Enchanted April

Truly, Madly, Deeply

The Snapper

My Beautiful Laundrette

 

many documentaries

Hustle and Flow

You might want to compensate for long exposures - time lapse kinda carry on.

 

They are basically a get out of jail free card when you are stuck technically or aesthetically with certain stops, shutter angles, stock and/or lighting.

 

You can trick meters with them to make math easier and make auto exposure cameras (super8 city) do odd things - fun fun

 

There are grad ND's too, centre ND's - polas work as ND - so yeh, tell us more about why you think you need one...

I needed one because there was just too much sunlight for an outside scene, and in this case, so much light that the light meter showed and overexposure reading. So in other words, it was just trying to get a properly exposed image on tape (it wasn't for depth of field, which to be honest, I hadn't even thought of).

Thanks for the help.

When you throw an ND filter on the camera, are you supposed to compensate for it?

I have an Arri SR 3x3 mattebox for sale. This is the one that with the adapter that mounts onto the light mount shoe (not the one that mounts onto the light weight rods). It has two filter trays, one of them rotates.

I'm asking $250.00. I think this one works for other 16mm Arri cameras (but I'm not sure).

Email me for pictures (I cannot upload because they are larger than allowed here).

Does anybody know what a CTO2B-ND.09 filter does? At least that's what the small letters written on the filter itself say. I know, it's part neutral density but I don't know what the other part could be, (the filter itself looks like an ND filter, very dark).

From what I've been told, HMI lights require a very steady frequency of electricity running to them, and normal generators create a frequency that sometimes varies because of the way they run. If you're using a ballast with your HMI, a bad frequency could eventually damage your equipment.

 

There are special generators for these jobs which are known as "Crystal Sync" generators. They will give that steady output of electricity and you wont have flicker problems.

 

The cheapest model crystal sync generator I've found, which most rental houses own, is the Honda 6500W.

 

Usually it runs at around $125 a day.

 

Good luck,

Nate

Thanks Nate.

Do you know if I can use a baby tungsten? Not the same output but it still would help a little bit.

Thanks,

Does anybody know if I can use a portable generator (a 6k) to power a 1.2 HMI light? The generator would be rented from one of those places for do-it-yourself home projects and I would only hook the one HMI light, nothing else. Would I have any flickering issues?

Thanks,

I read here in a posting I can't seem to find, that running the camera to drain batteries every month will keep them in good working condition (when the camera is stored and not used very often). My question is, doesn't the camera get damaged when not running any film through it? Is there a better way for maintaining batteries?

I hope I am being clear with my question.

Thanks,

Anyone willing to sell one? cheers.

I've got one that I purchased brand new a couple of year ago for a project that never happened and now I need to sell 'cause I need cash. It was only used for some tests (it's still in the original shipping boxes!). I paid $4,100 but will take $3, 300 for it, you pay for the shipping.

Let me know if you are interested.

Thx.

I have a Sony VX2000 that I occassionally use and never had any problems with it; however, I just shot something this morning and all the wide shots came out very soft. The closeups were all fine. It seems to me that it's a back focus problem, but I'm not sure this camera has that function. Does anybody here know what the problem might be? Is there a setting or a button that I might have changed by mistake and is causing the images to be out of focus? I read the manual, but I couldn't find any reference to back focus.

Any information will be much appreciated.

 

Thanks.

Anyone???

I have a Sony VX2000 that I occassionally use and never had any problems with it; however, I just shot something this morning and all the wide shots came out very soft. The closeups were all fine. It seems to me that it's a back focus problem, but I'm not sure this camera has that function. Does anybody here know what the problem might be? Is there a setting or a button that I might have changed by mistake and is causing the images to be out of focus? I read the manual, but I couldn't find any reference to back focus.

Any information will be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Check the fuse on the ballast. That might have went.

Make sure head cables are still fully attached

Most importantly, make sure the front face of the lamp is closed tightly, I'll bet this is the problem. All HMIS have a micro switch that prevents the light from turning on if the door and latch are not properly in place. The first time it didn't work is because the lights don't hot restrike and need time for the globe to depressurize. Is it a magnetic or electronic ballast?

Thanks David. It's a magnetic ballast. I'll make sure the front face is tightly closed. How can I check the fuse? Like I said, this is the first time I use an HMI light fixture.

did you wait, and wait some more, and then try again?

Yes, I waited about another 20 minutes before trying to turn it back on and nothing.

I just purchased a used Arrisun 12 light from Visual Products and received it yesterday. I was testing the light today and it went out. This is my the first time operating an HMI light, so I'm a little worried.

Before operating the light, I read the general operating procedures for HMI lights in the Set Lighting Technician's Handbook. So I followed the instructions, turn the light on and leave it on for about five minutes. Everything is fine. Turn the light off. Wait about 3-4 minutes to restrike (at this point I didn't unplug anything nor touched any other buttons other than the "Off" button on the ballast). I then push the "On" button, the light makes the sparking sound it made the first time, but it doesn't turn on anymore and everything went dead.

Did I do something wrong? I checked the globe and it seems that it indeed burned out (the middle filament is broken). If the globe is bad, will the "Off" switch light up when the ballast is plugged in?

I hope my question is not confusing (I tried to be as clear as I possibly can).

Thanks.

It really is astounding the time that David takes, even as busy as he is, to thorougly answer a lot of the posts here. It truly shows his dedication to the art of cinema.

I might do some tests with Muslin diffusion and I have a few questions:

1. If a throw a light through it (2k) what's the safest distance to be placed near the light?

2. Is there a big difference in color between regular muslin and bleached?

Thanks,

Hi, super speed lenses are less sharp than regular Zeiss Primes ( T 2.1 ) I guess that even depend on series of the lens ( being newer or MK's 1 ) Im really a huge fan of Zeiss, if you want to give it a try, could go for Ultra Primes, they are very sharp and contrasty.

Thanks Oscar!

I'm curious, compared to a Vario-So 10:1, T* 3.3 zoom lens, how is the image quality produced by the Zeiss Super speed prime lenses? I'm especially interested on the 12mm and 50mm. Does anybody have any stills of images shot on primes?

Any info will be appreciated.

Thanks.

Chrosziel also now makes a single-sided unit that is meant for DV cameras but I've seen people sucessfully use it for film work. It has the distinct advantage of being a true direct-drive unit so there is absolutely no slop in it at all."

 

I have used this Chrosziel unit on an SR and it works pretty good, the unit was purchased at 16x9 in L.A. I believe for about $1400, It has no backlash whatsoever.