Alberto Larios-Saavedra

Yes, I did.  It shows off my skills in composition without bringing out my weaknesses in movement, since we hardly moved the camera (actually, I'm good at slow & graceful moves and I'm a decent handheld operator, but fast moves, like booming up with an actor, whip-panning, etc., well... let's just say that there are people who are better at it than I am.)

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I think Norhtfork is an inspiration for a lot us (at least to me who is new to cinematography). I rented a video a couple of days ago and saw a "preview" to the film where there's a couple of reviews that mention the stunning beauty of the cinematography. The way some of the scenes were lit and shot remind of some paintings by Dali (I don't like to compare, but I do it because Dali is one of my favorite painters).

Awesome David!

Does anyone know what the recording "speed" of the older Sony Mini Disc MZ-R50 (and by speed I mean in terms of fps)?

Might shoot some 16mm, telecine, then edit at a computer on Xpress Pro, so how do I sync up audio and video?

Thanks,

Al

A film camera doesn't normally have a light meter, and it's the light meter you input the ASA value into.  If you set you ASA value one-third of a stop slower, you will end up setting the exposure one-third of a stop more open when following what the meter tells you.  That's easier than trying to remember to always open the f-stop ring by one-third of a stop.

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The reason I ask is because I have seen that the Arri SR has a dial for the stock rating, what is purpose of the dial? Do all cameras have it?

Yes.

 

It's very easy way to "build in" consistent under- or overexposure on any meter. If you rated the film normally, but still wanted to overexpose by 1/3 of a stop you'd had to open up the lens 1/3 from every reading you do. This is a mental hassle and will almost surely slip up somewhere down the line when you forgot to do so, etc. So the best and easy way is to "build it in" right at the measuring stage.

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So when you mean "build it in" does it imply to actually change the setting in the actual camera, or just in your meter?

I have a question regarding color correction and compensation. Let's say that I want to do a shot with a daylight balanced film, but don't have the filter to put in front of the camera. I decide to use CTB (actually 1/2 CTB because I want the image to look a little warm) and want to shoot at a 4-Tstop. Should I put the gels over the lights until I achieve the 4 Tstop, or should I first achieve the desired stop, then put the CTB and then compensate for the loss of it?

Does my question make sense? Does it matter how you do it?

Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Alberto