Richardson Leao

I agree with him. Kinor 16 are the way to go. The camera is phenomenal.

I don´t agree with the advice "avoid anything russioan than the Krasnogorsk 3". There is probably one of the best choices out of Russia - The Kinor 16 cx m2. You can get both 100ft and 400ft-mags for it. It´s easy to load. And it is PIN REGISTERED -that means: the pictures are rock-steady on ARRi-SR-Level! I saw offers for about 400 and 500 Euros and a completely new one goes for max. 1500 Euros on EBay. It has a true reflex finder (with a mirror shutter disk -also like Arri) and it was in use for News gathering for the USSR-Television -what means it is a true professional camera, not a amateur toy like the K3. It has it´s special lens mount -but the lenses are easy to find on EBay and they are cheap -and very good. There´s a 10-100mm Zoom lens, a 12-120mm Zoom Lens, 6mm, 10mm, 25mm, 50mm, 100mm, 150mm, 200mm and even 300mm Primes. All of them rather cheap and very good. Especially the 10-100mm Zoom.

It's a LOMO tank that takes 15m. and I bought it in ebay. I know Olexandr (http://www.geocities.com/russiancamera/) used to have some smaller one for sale.

What spiral tank do you have and where did you acquire it?

 

Thanks,

-Tim

By the way, ORWO BW films (as FOMA BW), are actually negatives but they CAN be processed in 'reversal'. I tryed myself and they end up great.

I have started recentely with 16mm and believe me, it does not need to be expensive. You can get short ends very cheap: www.drrawstock.com and also, if you do the processing of the film by yourself (i have a rewind and a spiral tank and the spiral produces much nicer results without the pain of rewinding it), the costs become really low. I first started with super 8 (using a Nizo 560 that costed 5 euros on ebay). Great camera w time lapse, different fps. Then I bought a K3, also with single frame and different fps. I did an intervalometer for it using an electromechanical solenoid and now I am in love with my Kinor 16. Short ends as I mentioned are cheap and they are the way to go if your budget is limited. Also, check Orwo BW films (www.dakan.dk). It costs ~70E for 120m. Great results.

I have started recentely with 16mm and believe me, it does not need to be expensive. You can get short ends very cheap: www.drrawstock.com and also, if you do the processing of the film by yourself (i have a rewind and a spiral tank and the spiral produces much nicer results without the pain of rewinding it), the costs become really low. I first started with super 8 (using a Nizo 560 that costed 5 euros on ebay). Great camera w time lapse, different fps. Then I bought a K3, also with single frame and different fps. I did an intervalometer for it using an electromechanical solenoid and now I am in love with my Kinor 16. Short ends as I mentioned are cheap and they are the way to go if your budget is limited. Also, check Orwo BW films (www.dakan.dk). It costs ~70E for 120m. Great results.

Dear all,

australia is still an isolated island regarding shortend/film stores and prices here are close to the absurd. ANyway, would anyone know any place either in Munich, Vienna or Stockholm where I could buy 16mm re-cans?

I would also like to know if there is any shop that sells orwo (or maybe kodak) filmstock in either of these places (preferably in stock)?

hank you very very much

sounds like we are interested in the same stuff !

 

I plan on making a system where a wind up bolex will provide the sync for any multitude of electric bolexes (two EL's so far) - these are also all sync'ed with strobe lights (;

 

at this stage I'm got a working xtal sync on one EL and the strobe lights going also, just gotta work on the rest when I get some time...

 

Also planned is a moco system that will use a similar parallel port interface, one option will be using the camera sync output to run the clock of the moco ...

if you want my coding let me know...

i recentely build a little device that feeds the parallel port (printer port) of a linux laptop with the 50Hz signal of my kinor + the start signal for it to start recording. the laptop start the recording in sync and also register the variations of the sync signal. I have also a k3 and I thought i might be able to record the noise from the camera in stead of the sync signal. in my understanding (didn't test it yet), the camera noise may have the same frequency (or at least the same phase) of the speed of the film. Because the computer is registering the both the frequency of the noise and the sound in a timed manner, my other little program can generate a sound sygnal that varies its speed accordingly to the frequency of the sync signal. If you (or someone else) thinks that it's an OK idea, i'll find a way to write a page explaining how to build your own crystal sync recorder.

So, heres my idea....

 

I have:

1)a 16mm bolex

2) two Krasnogorsk 3s. One Bayo and one M42

*** all three are windup.***

 

Then I have:

1) Marantz PMD 201 Tape Recorder

2) Shure SM 58

3)Shure SM57

4)Cables to hook them up to my Marantz Tape deck.

 

If I had a Mic on a boom above a table scene and had my Camera wrapped in an old Parka/Makeshift Barney/Vacum box...lol

 

then Used a Clap board in the shot and recorded the snap and filmed the 30 seconds dialouge that it possible on my windups.

 

then telecined my roll and brought it into final cut along with the Audio track off My Marantz.....

 

Is there any chance that the dialogue and the film would be able to match well enough to be a "Faux sync sound Film"????

 

Has anyone attempted anything like this? or has any experience?

 

The Bolex and one of the K3's is actually remarkably quiet and I was thinking I could mix out any other camera noise.

 

I know it would take some balls and a crap load of luck to pull off, but someone has had to try to do this before me.

 

any ideas?

hi,

i have just finished a little program and interface that receives through a parallel port of a laptop (running linux) the sync signal and start and stop the recording together with the 50Hz. discounting the laptop, the system costed about 5$. If you are interested on the idea please let me know.

i thought the moviechrome was e6. i have a roll also and i thought about processing it as e6 at 24C. you can get chemicals from Olexandr (www.geocities.com/russiancamera) or you could buy tentenal e6. i would get a lomo tank too, they are very easy to load (you can also get them from Olexandr or from ebay.

K2 can be processed as a BW negative (same times).

i thought the moviechrome was e6. i have a roll also and i thought about processing it as e6 at 24C. you can get chemicals from Olexandr (www.geocities.com/russiancamera) or you could buy tentenal e6. i would get a lomo tank too, they are very easy to load (you can also get them from Olexandr or from ebay.

 

K2 can be processed as a BW negative (same times).

btw, i am not sure about the e6 but unless somebody corrects me i'll still try to do it as a e6.

I have a k3 and a kinor 16 and I agree with Olexandr, go russian. The kinor is very easy to load and to do sound stuff it's great, i felt in love with that camera, but to start with I also would go for the K3. Also, if you want to save money, buy a processing tank and develop your own film, it's easy and fun.

If people want to try to use C41 in home tanks I would suggest them to go ahead. I have developed 15m of an old kodak EXR stock using the C41 from Nova 'Pro Speed 41 Press Kit' (2 bath kit). No pre-removal pf the rem-jet was used but the developer came out completely black. Unfortunately I over developed (15 passes) but the results were very nice. I will be trying to proccess another film stripe with the black developer to see if it's still usable and once I have a backlight for my scanner i will post some images. But again, i believe if someone wants to experiment, it's worth trying. I would suggest the following times for the nova kit:

developer - 8 passes

bilix - 8 passes

@37C

hi all,

would anyone know how the oruginal pilot connection works (i mean, does it give out 50Hz pulses)? would anyone know the voltage? Also, i heard that old soviet movies were voiced over in studios but does anyone know if there was a russian equivalent for a nagra recorder, i mean a sync analog recorder?

спасибо (thanks)!

Hi All,

At this moment I am not posting any questions. Instead, I just wanna let people that are thinking in buying a 16mm camera to consider the Kinor-16 SX-2. I've got mine from ebay few days ago and had the first shot using an old EXR 200T kodak stock. The camera is simply great. Low noise (~40db), smooth and apparently strong. I also have a K3 which I'll keep for animation only. At the moment I am stuck with 25fps but soon I'll send it to Olexandr for modification (he can modify the motor to accept xlr connectors and 6 speeds):

http://www.geocities.com/russiancamera/16m...nor-16sx-2m.htm

cheers

I recentely developed orwo negative as reversal with no problems, they turn out great, also, the fomapans are good when processed reversal. With photo films, the ilford also works when reversed. What would be the problem with the kodak? Thanks again.

---I tried this ages ago while in school.

 

Negative emulsions are thicker than reversal emulsions, thus the film did not dry properly in the revesal processing, leaving water marks and ferrotyping.

 

In reversal processing, the exposed halides are process and that silver image is bleached out.

The remaining unexposed halides are then exposed and processed, yeilding the positive image.

 

With the PXN, the camera exposure did not expose all that much of the silver, after bleaching and second development there was a lot of excess silver fog, giving a very dense image with no actual whites/clear area.

 

In addition there were very strong edge effects beteen light and dark areas.

It looked like a positive with an unsharp density mask, but with water spots.

 

---LV

I suppose that is a pretty dum question, but I can process 7231 plus X negative in reversal right? What is the difference between 7231 and 7265 plus X, is that only the film base?

thanks!

Hi all,

is there anything I need to know about processing ektachrome 64T at home? Can I just use E6? Many many thanks!!!

Does anyone know what would happen if I shoot staright on a color negative (kodak) for prints? Many thanks

is there any 'home-made' formula I can use to remove the carbon layer of kodak negatives? Also, can I do C41 after the layer is removed? Thanks.

richard