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Richardson Leao

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About Richardson Leao

  • Birthday 07/09/1975

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  • Occupation
    Other
  • Location
    Stockholm, Sweden

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  • Website URL
    http://cineguerrilha.blogspot.com

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  1. Thanks for the help. The serial no. (i suppose that is the no. in the base of the camera) is 209366. Bolex H16 Reflex. many thanks!
  2. Hi all, that may be a stupid question but i recently bought a bolex h16 reflex and i need to fix the dioptry knob but i have no idea how to remove it from the camera. many thanks
  3. svema, bw, 50 asa. I love it! I have used almost 20 of those in the past. the widescreen shop in UK uses to sell them. Develop as tri-x, it should work. when it is totally exposed, there will be some hieroglyphs (cyrilic :-) ) written on the film, like the 'exposed' of kodak.
  4. these are two of these rockets. That isn't so bad though: the 2nd one wasn't so bad. My initial idea was in fact a rocket because I was planning to do a scifi short. A bit off topic but have you guys seen this ffotage (challenger explosion in super 8)
  5. I tried to fly an rc plane with a fuji single 8 p2 (250g) but my piloting skils were not the greatest and I smashed the plane before I could start filming. I thought a DJI phanton could do the job. they can lift over 700g but I am a bit traumatised after various accidents.
  6. Hi Guys, I've been away from this forum from a long time and it is very good to be back. Anyway, I wonder if anybody has tryed to fly a super8 camera using an rc plane or helicopter? I saw a video on vimeo ( ) but it was not as I was hoping and I imagine it suffers from vibration issues. Cheers richardson
  7. Hi All, I have a KEM 16/35 editing table and after moving to a new place a plug on the back (that was to emulate a foot pedal) went missing and the table refuses to run. if anyone have a similar table, I would really appreciate if you could open the connector and send a pucture of its guts. I think one has to short circuit 2 or 3 terminals but i can't remember which. Thanks immensely for the help! Happy 2011! Richardson PS: I tried to email KEM (the factory) but never got a reply
  8. Hi All, after spending some time in australia and then in sweden i was loosing my hopes with the way filmlabs in those countries treat non professional customers with a small volume of business. it was even worth in my home country (brazil). it's tough when you don't speak the lingo... and i understand 'money talks' but then i found the light in the end of the tunnel when i've sent some stuff to the Colorlab and then also to Andec. The attention I received was remarkable, given the bellow 1000$ budget i had... Anyway, i open this thread just to know other people POSITIVE experiences with labs and post houses. cheers richardson
  9. to develop as a neg there should be no special chemicals. it's only bw developer and fixer
  10. Hi, I have some rolls of Kodak RAR film 2496 and 2498 16mm that i'd like to try, so I was wondering which ISO should it be exposed at? Also, are they both orthochromatic? Thanks heaps for the help! richardson
  11. there was also a lab in Portugal atom43 that used to do it. Dunno if they r still around. U need reversal, right? because I think nordisc film process bw neg. when io bought orwo from dancan in denmark they suggested nordic film co. for processing. Maybe if you want to do it yourself, i can lend you my tanks after january when i come back from holidays.
  12. I'd love to see some frames! I am currently shooting with svema 16mm reversal and it would be nice to see. Cheers!
  13. I agree with Richard, e6 is quite simple, I'd say even simpler than BW, specially with the 3-bath tetenal kit (that can be found EVEN in sweden). The trickiest is the temperature control, but a warm water bucket might suffice. If you can't find spiral tanks, you can always build your own (but i'd not do it in the field). THere are a few 15m x 2 tanks in ebay right now.
  14. with an editor and a tape splicer is quite easy. Using the editor u can mark exactly the frame u wanna cut and tape splicing is dead easy.
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