enoughsaid

My original thought was that it would look better than HD to FILM; which is why I pursued this route. However, if the effects can be re-written for in camera work; and the 35 quality can be preserved why not do it that way? I'm not looking to reinvent the independent effects world, just tell a good story. I'll have to do some number crunching this week and get back to you all. Thanks, Q

It sounds like a lot less headache for several reasons to maximize in camera effects and stick to an analogue cut. Then to make an HD Master, scanned at 8k and run off to HDCAM SR. Can anyone reccomend a good independent friendly lab in LA?

As I remove my foot from my mouth, allow me to add to my original post. My concern was preserving the color space and being able to edit with the software and tools with which I am familiar (as well as cost). I didn't consider resolution. However, after doing further research I realize that I am still wet behind the ears when it comes to 35mm projection as the end result. I've always gone back to video. I live in Chicago, it's all commercial and industrial. I typically shoot on video, save for still photography and the occasional super 16 piece. I just discovered the K-Factor, meaning 2k, 4k, and 8k. Could someone please explain where these fit into the workflow and any tips? I'm thinking maybe I should just stick to analogue conforming; but I want to do some subtle motion tracking effects. Can analogue conforming do that? Also, I didn't realize that there was a 4:4:4 colorspace HDCAM SR. Is that tape or a codec? Where can I get more infromation? Thank you for help

I'm shooting a 15 minute short film in the fall. I've decided to shoot on 35mm Vision2 and I will need a handful of 35mm answer prints. However, I was looking into a telcine of the negative straight to hard drive and then edit on FCPHD; and film record out. Questions: Would it be cheaper to offline in SD and then conform the negative the traditional way? How stark would the quality loss be shooting 35mm to editing HD and Printing back to 35mm? (Assuming 10 bit) Any suggetions, snyde remarks, or pleas for me for not to go this route will be appreciated and noted. Thanks