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Matias Nicolas

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Posts posted by Matias Nicolas

  1. Super Speeds are actually pretty good in terms of chromatic aberration. Regarding the interplay between CA and aperture, the more common type of CA you'll find in cinema lenses like these is longitudinal CA, which doesn't improve much by stopping down. Longitudinal CA gets worse towards the edges of the frame, and tends to show on tangential surfaces (facing towards or away from the centre).

     

    Here's a quick comparison of a Zeiss 18mm Super Speed and a Cooke 18mm S4 showing a tiny part of the top left corner of a lens test projection:

     

    attachicon.gifCA comparison Zeiss Cooke.JPG

     

    Note that the CA wide open doesn't get much better at T4, and that the CA of the Cooke S4 is probably more noticeable than in the Super Speed. To put it in some sort of perspective, the resolution of those radial lines is about 10 line pairs/mm, so the edges of colour on the Cooke are about 5 microns wide, less than the pixel pitch of an Alexa sensor. The Super Speed has slightly wider but softer colour fringing wide open, which is more to do with halation accentuating the CA. That halation and overall veiling glare is what makes a Super Speed seem a bit soft wide open, but as Stuart said, stopped down a little they are generally just as sharp as Cookes.

     

     

    ok, and do you think that using these lenses, will softer the image of the sony F55 shooting T1.3?

  2. Google night vision for some info on how it works.

     

    Either you use image enhancing technology that amplifies the available light, or you use a broader spectrum such as IR.

     

    In theory most video cameras can be turned into night vision cameras by simply removing the IR filter in front of the sensor, and using IR illumination. This RED article details some of the issues, and how REDs can be converted to Infrared:

    http://www.red.com/learn/red-101/infrared-cinema

     

    Otherwise you can use image intensifiers which can adapt to common DSLRs or camcorders, such as these:

    http://www.nightvisioncameras.com/nv-intensifiers.html

     

    Many surveillance cameras have night vision capability, but aren't well suited for cinematography.

     

    The best stuff of course is military.

    great info! we are looking for the green image. Not as the b&w image as sicario did. We are shooting the movie with f55, and we wnt to use real avn or night vision camera, but with that green colour, so that adaptor looks good. Sby also told me that some sony cameras do that. Such as the Sony PXW-70 ... do you know if that camera do that? Cause Ive looking in b&h but I can't that info.. what do you think?

  3. hi! Im shooting in a couple of months a tv serial about war. With 4 SonyF55, and the directors are asking me for Carl Zeiss highspeed lenses, so as to have a less sharpy image from the sony.

    So, do you think it is easy to find 4 compatible sets? Which tests should I do? Do you feel shooting in a 1.3 stop I will have terrible cromatic aberrations? Im more used to shoot with S4, master, or ultra.. not with these "old or vintage" lenses...

  4. either take a camera designed for video.. keep it small and cheap something like the Fs5.. ? or two A7 bodies.. swap out when one over heats..all those stills cameras have the same over heat problem in video mode.. because.. drum roll.. they are not video cameras.. I believe external power source also helps ...

    well yes, I was planning on taking 2 a7sii, but well, I thought, may be existed a sistem or sth to avoid heating as much as posible.. cause the a7sii is the third camera, and ill use it on a gimbal.. but I can't carry to gimbals !! jeje.. I was planning to use a reflectant material and make sth lo lock using the flash socket .. some kind of beach umbrella...

  5. Hi.. I been shooting some stuff with an A7SII in Colombia in summer, and sometimes the camera turnned off cause of temperature. now Im going to Africa, to shoot some stuff, and need some advice, in how can I manage temperature in the a7sII. Cause I was thinking in making some type of tiny umbrella to have some shadow, but I thnik it won't work out. Do you know if there is some material that I can make some kind of protection? or sth that keep's the heat away?

  6. Well, im shooting with epic, cause the company owns these cameras. I think, red zooms are too sharp against canon lenses... but it's just a thougth ...

    I also prefer use canon, cause 77mm filters are easy to carry with me... So I din't need to use a clip on 4x4 filters...

    I know is better mechanical diaf than electronic, but for me thats ok ... the thing, is what about quality? which are more cinematic to you? always seemed to me, that red lenses were as cheap as the first red camera ever built... but don't know how is today their manufacture ...

  7. Hi!

    Comparing: Canon 24-70mm , 70-200mm t2.8 VS Red zoom 16-50mm , 50-135mm

     

    Can someone tell me which is optically better for shooting a documentary with an epic? Im not worried about, weight, size, or how to operate the f stops (but you can add what you want!)

     

    I just want to know:

     

    Does the red zoom breathe a lot more?

     

    Which has better resolution & quality?

     

    what about flares?

     

    construction?

     

    Sbdy told me , red zooms are built with sigma lenses (I don't know anything about sigma lenses) what do you believe? Cause for me, Canon is a better brand than sigma.. but for you?

     

     

     

     

     

  8. Hello, I do a lot of timelapse work myself, feel free to ask me anything. I use a 5D or 6D with Magic Lantern software loaded on the camera. Not completely necessary but can do a bit more than a simple external intervalometer (which also works well). The timelapse is going to be a series of raw images in whatever resolution the camera shoots at, 5.7k on the 5Diii for instance. It should be pretty easy to match up with the Alexa footage in the grade.

     

    The post processing can be a bit tricky depending on what you are shooting. If you are doing shorter lapses without drastically changing light than post is pretty simple, it only gets complicated when the light changes (such as sunrise or sunset, or passing clouds) and you have to do special deflicker processing to the image.

     

    Hi Dan!

    Well... I'm planning to do sunrises and sunsets. How do you deal with exposure? What are your thougths & recommendations?

    Probably going to do it with a Sony AS7.

  9. Hi, for shooting documentary time lapse with Alexa, do I need some extra equipment? or can I do it "in camera"?

     

    What other options do I have? For ex, may be, can I do it with a Canon5D or similar? What do I need if I use a digital photo camera like the Canon? it's better to do it with a reflex due to its megapixels??

  10. Well, the Cooke set seems interesting to me. Do you have photos of all the lense To see if they have any damage?

    Or more info about them, like who is the owner?

    Is this guy their first owner of the set?

    Were in a rental house or he es ia DoP?

    Why does he sels them?

    How is the color match? The focus? definition? etc etc

     

     

     

    I don't know really if to buy a F55 or a Mini. It depends on my budget, and some other decisions and thoughts...

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