jon lawrence

I was browsing the internet to see if I could find any of the now discontinued Ektachrome stocks and found that Pac-Lab in NY is still selling them. I'm guessing that they either haven't updated their website in a while or they are selling out of date stock. Any one know what the deal is? Thanks, Jon

Wittner is an option, however they charge roughly 25euro (£16) without processing so once you've brought the film stock you would have to find a lab to process it, which I'm guessing will be around another £16, so while postage is cheaper we'd be paying twice as much. I think our best bet is to buy the film in bulk and split the postage cost.

Ahh, thankyou both so much for your help. -Jon

My question is regarding the relationship between a light's wattage and colour temperature. For example, if I was shooting indoors with a 100w, 650w and 1000w light would there be a big enough difference in colour temperature between the 100w and 1000w that I'd have to balance them out. Thanks, Jon

This link is for all the cameras Canon produced: http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/cine/f_index.html You can read the specifications for each model. Hope this helps. -Jon

Matthew, regarding what Terry said earlier- I would be happy to split the postage costs on an order from pro8mm. Obviously one of us would have to put a of of trust in the other but I don't think that would be an issue. Also, I'm going to the states for a few weeks in July/August and I was going to buy a few rolls and post them back home so I can get some for you and post it to you when I'm back. -Jon

My knowledge of cameras is limited but if you're looking for a reasonably priced camera that produces good images then both the canon 814 and the canon 1014 as well as the Nikon R10 have a good reputation . As for sound you may run into a few problems as sound film is no longer available and, although you could use an external device to record sound, most super 8 cameras are not crystal synced so there is the issue of your image and sound being out. There is a place I saw on the web that would crystal sync canon 1014 and 814 xl-s's for around $500 but considering the camera itself may only cost you $300 you may not feel it is worth it. Another factor regarding sound is how much noise the camera makes. The canon 814 and 1014 xl-s are both fairly quiet as they were designed to record sound, however it can depend on the type of film you are shooting, the condition of the camera, etc. Here are the links to the specifications of both the 814 and 1014 xl-s http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/cine/f_index.html http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/cine/f_index.html They are both great cameras in my opinion. Both have many features such as interval timing and macro shooting that offer a lot of space to be creative. I made the transition from digital to film about a year ago and trust me, when you see that first roll of film projected, you will not look back. Hope this helps.

And.. Mr Mester- What are you hint hinting at? Is my question that ridiculous?

Thanks alot for your help. I know at the end of the day I'll have to run some tests- I was wanted to get a little background knowledge before I tried- film doesn't come cheap.

The time has come where I need to caliberate my sekonic l508 and canon 814az. I have shot a few rolls with my 814 so I'm pretty confident that the internal light meter is accurate. My question is how much light does the viewfinder eat up? I've read that with most split prism cameras its normaly about 1/3 of an f-stop however I was talking to someone at the widescreen centre in London and they said that due to the camera's etremely bright viewfinder its eating up around 1 and 1/2 stops. Also, I was wondering how much the difference in light loss there is between a 150 and 160 degree shutter angle. I know the diference between 180 and 160 is about 1/3 of a stop so I'm guessing it isn't a great deal. Any help would be much appreciated.

I was wondering if anyone had any experience push processing ektchrome 64t. I know it's reversal film so it doesn't have a very large exposure latitude but I'm curious to see waht the results might be. If anyone has any examples of videos or screen grabs please post them. Thanks, Jon Lawrence

Hi, I recently brought a sekonic l-508 and have tested it against the internal light meter in my canon 814AZ. I expected there to be some difference which there was- my light meter measured roughly 1 stop higher than my camera. I know I loose about 1/3 of a stop due to some of the light going to the viewfinder and also the sekonic measures assuming the cameras has a 180 degrees shutter angle where as canon 814s have a 150 degree shutter angle. So my first questions is does the difference in shutter angle account for the remaining 2/3 difference? Also, I?m aware that the sekonic has a setting which allows you to compensate for such situations. The trouble I?m having is working out the right value to compensate for the difference in f-stops. The values which you programme in range from 0.1 ? 9.9. I?m unsure how these values relate to the f-stops. Would 3.3 be 1/3 of a stop? Thanks in advance for any help. Jon Lawrence

My first piece of advice would be to buy a light meter, then you can use any film you wish and besides, due to their age, a lot of super 8 cameras’ internal meters no longer work or are inaccurate. As for what type of film it depends on the shooting conditions and/or how you want it to look. Are you going to be shooting outside or inside? Do you want minimal grain? Are you going to have the film telecine? Kodachrome 40 is a beautiful film stock but has unfortunately been discontinued. You can find the occasional roll on eBay however these are usually expired so results aren’t guaranteed - (see my previous post http://www.cinematography.com/forum2004/in...howtopic=21264) Other film stocks are readily available at various prices: www.pro8mm.com www.spectrafilmandvideo.com www.widescreen-centre.co.uk Hope this helps.

I was wondering if many people had had much experience with shooting expired kodachrome. I've got some dated 1978 which I'm going to try out although I'm not expecting anything to come from it. There seems to be alot kicking about on ebay from various years and I was wondering if it was woth trying some out. Any help would be most appreciated. Jon Lawrence

This is really nice. How much was the cost of the telecine?

Thanks so much for the replies. Can anyone recommend a good light meter? I was going to go for the sekonic l-358 (for £100 on ebay) as it is the cheapest one I can find that works in fps. Are there better ones out there for this kind of money? Thanks, Jon

Thanks alot for clearing that up. My brain feels much better now. Jon

Hey, I've finaly decided to invest in a light meter. I thinking of buying a sekonic l-358 as it's fairly cheap and seems to have the features a begginner needs. I've used a light meter before, but I've never measured the distance between the camera and subject. Obviously this is something i need to start doing so my question is where does this come in when using a light meter? I know you have to input the film speed and fps. Where does distance come in and does this anyone know if you can do it with a sekonic l-358? Do you have to input the distance in cm/feet/ metres before you take a reading? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Jon.

.. I'm a little confused by how some places charge for telecine, for example, Spectra film and video $238 per hour - now does that mean per hour of footage how for how long it takes them to do the telecine? Thavks, Jon Lawrence

Can anyone tell me how much they charge for postage inside the U.S?

The Widescreen centre is ok but it doesn't offer the range of stock that pro8m does. Also I was thinking about investing in one of the deals which, with the current exchange rate, works out pretty good (4 rolls of film with processing and pro telecine for around £120). Besides, I haven't heard great things about the WC, I've emailed them and phoned them a few times and I get no reply - not the kind of customer service you want when you're considering spending hundreds of £. I'm going to see if it's worth having the film sent to some family friends in the US, then having it sent here. Might save some money.

Does anyone know why the cost of postage to the UK is so high? It's $67 to post a $30 roll of film. Is it as much for postage in the US?

Well it pretty much comes down to one thing: how much money you are willing to spend. Camera wise, you could try the following: Canon 1014 Canon 814 Canon 514 Nikon R10 All these cameras have a good reputation on this forum. The cheapest place to pick one up would be on eBay where they can go for anywhere between £10 - £200 GBP. They tend to be quite a bit more expensive if you buy from a shop however you get the added security of knowing that the camera probably has been serviced and is in full working order. I?ve brought cameras from eBay which didn?t work but I?ve only ever paid about £15 for them. The canon models I mentioned come in various forms. The numbers may be followed by letters. XL means eXtra light which means you can shoot in lower light. AZ means auto zoom and E means electronic. S stands for sound, however sound film is no longer made so this is feature is redundant. There is quite a big leap in price between the standard models and the XL's. Super 8 film cartridges are 50 meters/15 foot which gives you roughly 2 minutes 30 seconds of footage at 24 fps (frames per second) and about 3 minutes 20 seconds at 18 fps. 24 fps is recommended if you want to shoot sync. All the cameras I mentioned can shoot at 18 fps, 24 fps and single frame (for stop motion, animation etc). They can also shoot in slow motion. I think the Nikon r10 can shoot at 54fps and the Canons at 36 fps. So if you wanted to produce a short film at say about 10 mins you'd be looking at at least 4 cartridges at 18 fps or 5 at 24 fps. Super 8 films comes in two types, reversal and colour negative. For editing with reversal film you can use a splicer/super 8 editor to cut and paste your film together and use a projector to view it. Again, all these items can be picked up on eBay for varied prices. If you shoot negative film it has to be telecined before you can watch/edit it. Telecine can be a very expensive process. There are a lot of places advertised that will ?put your old home movies on DVD/tape for a low price? however I?ve read that these places are best avoided. If you want to merge sound with film you can have your film put onto cd rom/mini dv so you can edit digitaly. There are a number of places that sell film, processing and telecine: Pro8mm.com Spectrafilmandvideo.com Widescreen-centre.co.uk Pro8mm offer 4 rolls of film with processing and telecine for around $200. Shop around, see what catches your attention. If you have any questions this forum is the best place to get them answered. Just be aware that super 8 can develop into a very expensive habit.

Has anyone had any experience using filters for anything rather than colour conversion i.e diffusion, polarizing etc. I've read it's a bad idea to use filters on super 8 cameras. Jon

Hi, I want to shoot a roll of 500t but I've read that some cameras can't register film with a higher asa. I have a canon AZ 814E and a canon af514 xl. Has anyone had any experience shooting 500t with these cameras? Which one would be the better one to use? Many thanks, Jon Lawrence.