Elhanan Matos

This doesn't really have anything to do with HD, but it does have some relevance to this post. I got the link off of a website called hackaday.com Make your own IR webcam

The lens file can stay the same, but sometimes you do need to reshade the Optical Head Block.

Why?

From my tests I have noticed that +12 and +18 db of gain is very saturated. What I did was desaturate the image about 50% using the saturation page in the paint menus, this looked about right ( I was not using a scope, so I was doing all this by eye) and I tweaked the Video levels until the white balance looked about correct. A clockit box is a device that will let you sync up time code between multiple cameras. As for working with multiple cameras, I would recommend you get a DIT.

Hey Derek, Did you guys get the Venom in yet? If so how does it work, do you need multiple Venoms on each shoot so that you can keep recording while the other unit is dumping the shot to the S.two?

You can use an AJA HD10A, this will convert analog component to HDSDI.

Yes, the rental house should be doing this, are they? Most likely not. I was amazed to find out that the F900 I was working with out of Panavision Woodland Hills didn't have any lens files saved for their lenses. This is one of the reasons a DIT is absolutely necessary during a camera prep. White shading adjusts the color shift vertically and horizontally along the image. If a camera is used without any type of white shading then you will most likely see a bit of a greenish hue towards the bottom half of the screen, and a red hue at the top. How much green and red depends on the lens you are using. When you adjust the white shading you are cancelling out this effect. You do this once for the OHB (optical head block) and then you do it for all of your lenses and save the settings as lens files.

Ive noticed Kino Flows start flickering at somewhere around 200fps, these were Image 80's. I don't know if they flicker at frame rates lower than this, 200 was the slowest we shot that day.

What kind of camera?

Did the camera take any damage lately, the lens mount could have taken some damage and could be angled a bit. We have a 900 in for a similiar problem, the image is very soft on one side of the picture, and when it is stopped down it gets a little better. My guess is that the camera took a hit and tweaked the lens mount or the front panel assembly.

I believe Fotokem uses Quantel IQ's for their digital post.

That sounds like a fun test. I have access to all the necessary equipment to do this with 35mm film. I have a few sets of Digiprimes just laying around my office, I also have a B4 to PL adapter from Abakus, and I'm sure I can get a camera from someone in the LA area for a weekend.

That sounds like fun.

They did. Theyre called the Master primes.

I thought the whole point of your post was to take OUT the IR filter. The issue was taking out the lowpass filter, which is something that, I believe, has to be fairly close to the imager to be effective.

If I were in that situation I would buy a few good books, "New Cinematographers" being one of them, invest the rest of the money, and start crewing on student films to make a few connections and get a little bit of experience.

Taking out the IR filter would mean taking out the Low pass filter as well, because they are both on the same piece of glass. Taking out the low pass filter would just give you an extra blurry image because you would no longer be able to back focus your lens. The proper way to do this would be to set up your camera for low light. So increasing the Gain, lifting your blacks, etc... I did a test with another Cinematography.com forum member, Kevin Zanit, shooting only with available light on some very dark streets last weekend. These streets were all lit with Sodium Vapor lights, which were very hard to correct in camera. I somehow managed to do a decent job at it while sitting in the back of a moving pick up truck. It's pretty amazing how much detail you can get out of the F900 and still have a fairly clean picture. I'll try to post more info and stills from that test later this week.

Probably cheaper to fly. ;)

I was told that Sony had no interest in Releasing the Genesis to the public. Although, I'm sure if you give sony enough money they will build you one. I think the exclusivity contract on the Genesis ends sometime around next November.

Maybe youre just calling the wrong place. I wouldn't call Best Buy or CompUSA for technical support for my Television Set or Computer Monitor. I would call the manufacturer. If you're looking for a straight answer maybe you should call someone at Sony who knows more... Now who that is is another problem in itself. I would think the best time to be asking those questions would be at NAB in a few weeks.

I'll be there. Probably chained to our booth though.

Surounding any color by its compliment will always help bring it out. Research color theory online, try Google.

I heard they had alot of issues, and so did the early RGB Striped CCD's. I only mentioned the trinicon camera because they used similiar filtering. I guess you could say the Trinicon is like the tube version of the Genesis's sensor.

If you want to know how the Imager in the Genesis works just look up vertical stripe filter CCD's. I think its the same kind of filtering that was in the old Sony Trinicon cameras.

I don't really understand how that works.