shameline

I have a sekonic 758cine, and when I take mesure in daylight of a bright sunny day, it gives me an f-stop as high numbers like 64 for example (at24fps / 180 degree shutter angle) But lenses go usually to 22, 32 maybe, but that's it. So I am not sure how to translate those numbers... Should I just compensate with a ND to get back in the range of the lens stops? :blink: thanks. :P Seb.

I did shoot with the DVX100 and the 35 p+s adapter weeks ago. And oh man I did some phone calls to find out what was the best solution :ph34r: ..... The reason why it is so hard to find an answer is because most of people don't use it as a handheld camera. and because of the weight of the camera+adapter+lens+matte box+filter... everything is HEAVY and UNBALANCED , and, let's say it, because it has not been made for handheld shootings (or at least not by itself) :angry: Of course you can handhold everything by the handle of the adapter and other unreligious methods, but you'll probably get something shakier than a documentary camera if you start walking with it... :blink: Anyway, I got a "maybe" with a model of glidecam that could support all that weight... But I ended up with a shoulder pad that is mountable under the adapter and a "hip cam" (a belt on which you hook a spring that will mount itself on a rig under the camera) - IT IS NOT LIKE A STEADICAM, it stabilizes the camera better than without, and allows you to have the camera on the shoulder more than the 10 seconds you're smashing your shoulder without it. It felt like an old technology though... :huh:

Thanks for all those accurate information. I was wondering if there were other technique to push the grain. Would it be possible to shoot 400asa, expose for 400, and have it processed at 500? or any alternative... :blink: Thanks again! :rolleyes: Seb.

Thank you for the explanation :rolleyes: . How do I know accurately that when setting my light meter to 1000, I'm actually underexposing just 1 stop right on the dot? (just taking the mesure with one asa, the other and compare?) If I want to push only half a stop, should I rate the asa to 640? Is there any kind of chart (if I can say so) That would show the relation/rule of thumb between asa/ f-stop change? :ph34r: By curiosity, what happens if I do the contrary (overexpose 1 stop, pushing the film? ) Thanks again. :P Seb.

Hi, I'll be shooting a short on 16mm (my first time shooting 16mm, very exciting :lol: , very probably on 7218, unless you have any suggestion for another film stock, shooting tungsten), and I want to push the grain to get a little material/organic feel on the picture. I went through different posts on the forum, but I'm still not sure of the overall process. The main technique, as I understood, would be to push the film. <_< Let's say I want to push the film of 1 stop. If I have a reading on my light meter of 5.6, should I set the lens to 4? And ask the lab to push the film of 1 stop on the during the processing? I'm not exactly sure what is the formal way to ask them... If I want to push it half a stop, how am I sure my f stop is going to be an accurate half a stop of 5.6 (or it doesnt really matter because the film latitude? ):huh: (I understand the best way to know is to do test though)... If anybody has a step by step approach, that would be very valuable. Thanks for your advices. Seb.