AJ DeRose

How can I figure out what the ASA of the DVX100A is. I know its DV but we would like to meter scenes anyway. Thanks

Thanks for the help. Just so I have the contrast right. You mean if I'm at a 4 for the key and a 8 for fill and I close two stops for underexposure (8) my fill should be no more then a 11 or 16. I should have a 2:1 or 4:1 ratio. Sorry for the questions I'm a first year student and all we take is foundation classes first year so we haven't had in depth lighting lessons or how to light rather complicated scenes. Thanks Again

If I was to shoot a bedroom scene at night (regardless if the film is negative color or reversal black and white), using one or two lights just to extinguish my subject. I would want the room to seem pretty much pitch black (maybe some definition) but I would want my subject to be visible laying in his bed. I would meter for him but if I use the meter's reading it probably will look over lit being unrealistic. So should I underexpose him by half to a full stop to still make him visible but seem more like it is at nighttime? THanks

Hey, I'm shooting my final film next week and I have somewhat of a problem. I'm shooting two tungsten negative stocks (so I have a good latitude) outdoors with the 85 filter. 7212 100ASA (64 w filter) and 7218 500ASA (320 w filter). Where my problem comes in is with the 500t. Most of my outdoor shots will be with the 7212 stock and I should be fine with getting enough light outdoors at my location. I'm using the 500t in the hall of a convention center. This center links a boardwalk together so it has a great hall that connects one side to the other. I'm not able to light in here so I got a faster film in order to hopefully get enough light from the windows and doors that are constantly open. Today I went down to my location and took some meter readings to make sure I would have enough light. To my dismay its raining out and its overcast so there wasn't much light to begin with. I took reading at various spots that are important to the film with the incident and got readings of 2.8 at the entrance and 2.8 minus a third at the exit, which is pretty decent. More towards the center I got a split between a 2.8 and a 2 and at some points a little less then a 2. At dead center I got a reading of a 1. I also took a reflected meter reading of the hall (for a wide shot) and got a 1. The ASA was set to a 320, for the 500t film with the 85 filter. My question is, if I have a fast lens like a wide and I shoot a scene at a 1.4 or 1 stop will I get enough light to have detail for a wide shot. With a normal 25mm lens and a telephoto if I?m wide open for shots that I need in this area will they be pretty decent. Thanks

Thanks, I dont have access to a spot (I wish I did) so should i try to find the midtone with the reflective and go down one stop?

I'm shooting a 16mm MOS color negative film on a bolex for my final first year project. I shot a B&W reversal tri-x indoors in a studio and it came out very good, with lighting and exposure. I used the incident meter and was very pleased. Now my question is I will be shooting in the woods with a large stream almost a vally/mountain type setting. And alot of my shots will be taking in the landscape but there will also be a main subject walking through. My first time I shot on film it was outdoors and I used the reflective meter and was pretty happy with the results. But upon reading more in books, etc. I've come across that the meter read subjects as average grey's and if its white it will be under exposed and black will be over. My question is if I use the incident (go up to my main subject take a reading) then fall back to my shooting posistion will the background landscape be unproperly exposed? Also if I use reflective from my camera posistion to subject wont the background take over the reading and either over or under expose my main subject? I want both my subject and my background to be properly exposed.

I'm a first year student at film school and I have a question on what meter to us in an outdoor situation. I understand that both reflected and incident do not tell you how to expose your film but rather give you a f stop that will render subjects a medium gray. In my situation I want the scene to look average (i'll be in the woods and i want what my eye sees to be reproduced on film). I'm not looking to over or under-expose for effect. I used the incident in a studio situation and everything came out the way I wanted it to on film. But I've been told when shooting outdoors a reflected meter is better. Incident measures the amount of light hitting a subject and reflected measures the amount of light being reflected off the scene. I've seen some films where incident has been used outdoors and the subject is properly exposed but the background bleeds out. If I'm shooting a scene with a rather large landscape, for instance a wide shot of a person coming up a trail and behind them is trees and a small stream will metering the person with an incident give me a proper reading or is reflected a better bet? If there in pretty much the same light incident should give me a proper reading but I would just like to know which will give me better results outdoors.