Joe Christofori

ok thanks found them

Did we do something wrong?

Special Thanks to Patrick Neary Hi Everyone- Riffing on a previous post: Here, provided as a public service, are verbatim instructions on how to destroy your gear (what was in this case probably a really nice Mitchell GC) War Department Technical Manual TM 11-2386 CAMERA PH-274 [Mitchell GC] DESTRUCTION NOTICE WHY- To prevent the enemy from using or salvaging this equipment for his benefit. WHEN- When ordered by your commander. HOW- 1. Smash- Use sledges, axes, handaxes, pickaxes, hammers, crowbars,heavy tools. 2. Cut- Use axes, handaxes, machetes. 3. Burn- Use gasoline, kerosene, oil, flame throwers, incendiary grenades. 4. Explosives- Use firearms, grenades, TNT. 5. Disposal- Bury in slit trenches, fox holes, other holes. Throw in streams, scatter. USE ANYTHING IMMEDIATELY AVAILABLE FOR DESTRUCTION OF THIS EQUIPMENT. WHAT- 1. Smash- All lenses, batteries, sunshade and matte box, viewfinder, cases, magazines, and the motor. 2. Cut- All cords and connections, straps, and belts. 3. Burn- All film, tripods, triangle, barney, fabric cover, changing bag, and this manual. 4. Bend- All reels and cans. 5. Bury or scatter- All that remains. DESTROY EVERYTHING OK now go to it!

Excellent, Thats the one. It was no joke, the version I saw was a standing order from the War Department. It all had to do with the stuff not falling into enemy hands a very standard order for many things, back then. I just thought it was a riot, it is the Anti-Christ of Fauer manuals.

I understand why it was there, it was just a great descriptive list of things to do that goes against everything a camera person should do, and I found it very amusing and have been trying to find a copy for a couple of years now, it finally occurred to ask here. thanks guys

Can anyone tell me which Camera handbook had the list of ways to destroy camera gear in the back? It was there kind of as a joke obviously, but it was genuine. It had a list of ways to render gear useles so it wouldnt end up in enemy hands.

I havent used the Letus, but I expect if your using a Nikon DSLR lens, I would use that one. I think it's 0.020 almost all Nikon DSLR are that, with the exception of the new d3 dont know what that would be. Here is almost all you need to know about CoC http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circle_of_confusion

I just tried the DOF Calculator it loaded in about 15 seconds through the edge network (NO Wifi) so its not too bad for loading time.

Cool, Thanks man Jon, I think the webapp thing should change soon, because they are now letting developers write apps now and soon you should be able to load them onto the phone itself. quote It really sucks with webapps on the iPhone though, you can't just load the app on there and use it whenever you want. You have to have wifi connection in order for it to work, rendering it useless in most remote locations.

Someone mentioned sitting near the lens, well you have to sit close and behind the lens so your look to the lens can be just a glance, if you need to turn your head, youre screwed because in that time the subject will have moved. I also try to use the FF witness mark (the movable one) as a finger stop on the end of the pull. But an 85 wide open on the mini 35 adapter with a close subject is going to have very shallow depth, so 1 to 1-1/2 stops isnt going to grow that depth that much that the background wont still fall off in focus. And if it means not getting the shot the DP should at least try to give you a fighting chance with a little extra stop. I know thats not the answer to the question, but most DP's know better and if he puts you in a position to not get the shot, its also his problem. Remember we function as a team win as a team lose as a team. Joe C

Does anyone know of any web apps that have been written for the iPhone yet? Maybe a camera log or a master camera report? I know it would be folly to ask if someone has made a DOF calculator yet That one would require some real programming. I use the notepad sometimes to do a Commercial Master report, it works out well you can email it right from the notepad program to the producer or the lab and it CC's to my address as well. You have to turn the CC option on in the preferences.

Ive been on tons of shoots where shooting a chart was overlooked and Ive never had an issue or had a production call up after the fact and ask why we didnt shoot one.

Yeah If possible, I try to tape a piece of showcard to the bottom of the remote head, score it half way through then bend to a 90 degree angle and tape it underneath parallel to the film plane (obviously) cut another piece at the corner of the show card to make a brace, so its not all floppy, that should give you a good target for a Hilti or Disto.

Hey Guys, If you load it opposite of operation, it will make a little more noise for the 1st 50 feet or so. Because the guide roller will jump up and down until the bump dissapears from the film tension. It wont really effect the operation, but generally what happens, is the DP turns to the 1st AC and says, "why are these mags so clunky?, CUT! You better check it." This can be a real pain in the fanny. So my advice is to load it the recommended way. In the direction of operation. I have found that folding 2 - 3 inches of the film squarely back on itself and sliding it into the core, works best. Doing this will allow you to feel that it is in straight and it will be snug in the core. Collapsable Cores are nice, but I havent seen many true 435 mags with those, Converted 35-3 mags may have them and they work fine, but I think ARRI abandoned them when they realized it was one more costly item that wasnt really needed. Did you ever see the price of a collapsable core? Joe C