ishan vernallis

couldn't wait for a reply so i took the feed reel/arm gearing mechanism apart and determined that the feed reel is not supposed to be powered, in forward play. all of the gears looked sharp and happy, and when i reassembled the whirling noise was gone. so possibly the feed reel is supposed to be able to spin free, and it's just a matter of getting a bit of wd40 into the axel that the feed arm gearing spins on? if any one can confirm or redirect do please assist

maybe someone out there knows these projectors well enough? I just got one from ebay that is really sharp and clean and everything seems to run really good and strong.... except that .... dum dum dum dum (dragnet theme) the feed reel does not spin in the forward play mode. I opened the projector up and all the belts look good as well for the feed arm belt, and the feed arm pulls really well in rewind mode once the rewind gear is engaged. the gearing on the feed arm looks like it is supposed to have a powered turn in the forward on position... but i am not sure of that. do some of these projectors rely on the sprockets pulling the film and the takeup reel to turn the feed reel? if this is the case the feed reel would need to be very free and this one is not... it turns too stiff to run film as the projector has an auto shut off when there is too much resistance. the feed arm gears all turn well right up to the point where the pully takes up for the actual feed arm belt, but at that point there is no action. and there is a slight unhappy whirling comming from there. does any one have any idea how to remedy? It would seem a shame if the whole projector got rendered useless because of one gear? especially when the rest of the projecor is in such nice working condition. Is this a common problem with these projectors? any assistance would be most appreciated. thanks!

yes- they wrongly listed it as c mount and as being for h16 cameras. I've informed them of the misprint. thanks for the info.

quick question- does the angenieux 6.5mm retrofocus work on 16mm or is it a 8mm lens... any possibility that it might work for super16? thanks!

and in C mount comming round the bend we have........ kinoptik 5.7

i was driving the other day an the radio was playing this song that i'd never heard before "mama, don't take my kodachrome away" i think it was by paul simon. does any one know if the song was written before or after kodak discontinued? would you need to cross process color reversal film to get it to be as punchy as kodachrome?

on the even more distorted side of things this just came up on ebay CENTURY EXTREME WIDE ANGLE 3.5 F1.8 LENS (c mount) any one use of these before?

did you take look at this 8mm? might not give you enough warping for super16 but you'd have a nice 35 fish down the road and a good 8mm prime for now? http://www.longvalleyequip.com/lens.php

o.k. so i spoke with the kinded hearted owner @ MAGNA-TECH ELECTRONIC CO. who sells and services filmo gear... and he confirmed that the inner workings of the slip clutch do need to be lubricated. thanks eric for bringing my attention to this! as i might have otherwise burned out the clutch and it would be a crying shame to ruin a piece of history due to lack of knowledge. now just to find the right 12v 8 amp power supply and make sure i have it spinning in the correct direction.

well, this is how my motor looks in the slip clutch compartment. a bit different than yours. it seems that your clutch doesnt have a cylnder around it like mine does. all of the grease in my clutch it outside of a metal cylnder and there is no sign of any grease having ever been inside the actual clutch...? the grease is a bit firm but not dry. and the cylnder moves around with the whole clutch assembly when i turn the outer pully wheel. i'm a bit hesitant to fill the assemble with grease if it doesn't look like there was any there before. might make it slip too much, he he? i repacked the grease since taking this photo and all of the cracks you see in the grease easily smoothed out...

yep, i see the three screws, i thought that might be what you were talking about. i'll open it in the morning and see how bad the lube looks. i hear that. swapping out a motor is one thing, rebuilding a tranny a nutter. thanks so much charles, clive, and eric i've learned quite a bit today!

thanks muchly eric! here are the pics that the seller put up for the motor, using these to save time. yes, it is a 12 volt motor, i spoke with doug at long valley, and their dewalt adapters are 12 too. the clutch -torque on the motor name plate reads LBS 9-1... thanks for clearifying that it is the cameras govenor that regulates the speed, not the motor. what i am wondering is if the dewalt rig will give the motor enough juice to drive the camera at the full 64fps? i have this earialist falling off the high wire scene that kinda needs to be slo mo. i guess i'll have to take this motor apart a bit to see exactly what you're refering to... i have a general understanding of such things, once put an engine in a 72vw bus, can't be too different, right? i don't want to sell the motor, would rather get the rig working, and shoot. but i may be in portland early next month, if you would like to take a look for the filmo resource?

I think I might have found the solution? http://www.longvalleyequip.com/adapter.php has any one ever used one of these?

If I can not plug this motor into 120 does that mean that the motor is only to be used with a battery pack? or is there some sort of regulator/converter that can make it possible to use it from a wall socket? thanks for the input!!!

Thanks Charles! Yes, I am glad that at least the camera came with an on/off switched xlr plug that fits nicely into the silver xlr mount. I opened the xlr conector mount (which is a cannon?) and saw that you were correct there is no ground, but there also was no difference between the two wires, both black, one going to prong no.1, the other going to no.2. rather than saying 110v Ac-Dc, the nameplate reads 12 volts dc 8 amps. the guy I got the camera from on ebay said that the motor have tested running from a car battery. maybe this would be a good way to test which wire is positive and negative with out giving it a full 110 jolt? another thing I am also curious about these motors... it says it runs 8-64 fps (which is why i got it, to shoot 64fps) but i don't see any clearly marked knob or screw to adjust f.p.s...? do you just adjust the f.p.s. setting on the camera and then the motor speed is regulated by that? seems like there must be a regulator on the motor.

Hi- I just recieved an old B&H 70hr that came with a motor which has an XLR power connector, but no normal A.C. wall plug attached. It's a simple enough job. but this is my first time dealing with an XLR on a camera motor rather than on a mic. Is there a standard for what prong is positive and which is negative? No.1 postive? No.2 negative? No.3 ground? I don't want to risk hooking it up wrong and frying the motor. thanks ever so much! ishan l

sheltoncomm.com has a kinoptic 5.7 for $875... if that helps. how much less was the one you just missed on ebay?

hi- if you have any of your reversal film left. drop me a line. ishan@vernallis.com Arcata, Ca. thanks

Not wanting to divert the preceeding thread, which answered a several questions I have been wondering about zooms vs primes (thanks!)... but it also raised a few questions too... I am considering between buying a bolex rex5 or a sbm. and have been leaning tward the sbm due to its more rugged bayonet mount... and easier/cheaper super16 conversion. but if it seems that using the smaller prime lenses will offer better image/lower fstops is it worth the extra money for the sbm if I'll just find myself putting on a c mount adapter most of the time anyway? are there really great bayonet lenses other than the larger zooms that I will regret not being able to use down the road? thanks- i

o.k. my guess is that the shiney wheel furthest from us with the ^ shaped thing on it is the sprocket.... and the fact that there is not a ^ shaped thing on the wheel closest to us means that this machine run single perf film, yes... i've never seen the camera in person, just going by this pic. can anyone confirm? thanks!

along the same lines... (newbie question) if you buy a normal 16mm projector, and you run super 16 film through it, will you see the whole super frame? or do you need to replace/modify the film gate? or is super 16 not intended for projection, just video hd transfer/35 blow up- thanks

I'm very curious where this story ends! Did anyone successfuly conver a filmo to super...? I found this thread because I am interested in doing it my self. anybody find if their lenses covered super 16?