Kristian Schumacher

I unfortunately have to sell my set of LOMOs to raise some cash for my docu project. The set is 22mm-75mm and includes an additional 75mm macro and a follow focus unit. Please feel free to ask me any questions to kristian (at) kameraundervann (dot) no

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330797973585

Kristian

I am selling the following camera gear, just listed on Ebay:

S16mm 300fps Milliken high speed camera:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330775789114

Kinoptik 5.7mm:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330775230002

S16mm K-3 with Nikon mount:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330775797123

Please have a look and ask any questions by mail: kristian (at) godpaabunn.no

Thanks,

Kristian

Thanks for all your interest. All anamorphic lenses are now sold, including the 100mm. Congrats to Ruairi on your new lens set!

Kristian

Hi Ruairi,

No,the 100mm is still for sale. I have had a lot of people interested in that particular lens, and decided not to include it in the set, but I still have it.

I don't visit this site that often, so it is easier to get in touch by my email above.

Kristian

is the 100mm sold?

The set of 3 lenses is up on Ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330492831069&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_500wt_1156

Feel free to ask any questions,

Kristian

Oh, and if you want to use these lenses with the RED, here is the mount: http://cgi.ebay.com/Lomo-OCT-19-mount-RED-ONE-CAMERA-ARRI-Konvas-5d-PL-/200521925198?pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item2eb009c24e

Kristian

I have set the price to 15000 USD for the whole set, alternatively 13000 USD for only the 35, 50 and 75mm lenses - as I may have a buyer for the 100mm.

Kristian

Hi Duncan,

Glad to hear that the s16 conversion went OK and that the camera runs fine.

If the camera runs OK attaching the battery straight to the motor, I´d try hooking the same battery up to pins 10+11 (Double check this in the manual I uploaded) That should work, and that is all I have done to mine - after trying lots of other, more complicated things first.....

Kristian

Right seems I'm onto a dead end here....

 

Still i found out that the motor is DC by taking the two leads out of it and linking it to the battery pack of my other Millikens. Happy that it works but I have no idea what speed it is running at because there is no information about these cameras!!! The manual I got from this forum is like a bible and has helped plus forum members have been amazing with help on altering the cameras but other than that its like these are a massive secret or something... quite annoying. Anybody know the speeds of a DBM 3AP??

 

I need to tidy up the cables and get the auto shut off mechanism to work but happy that this $30 purchase for spare parts might actually film something in the future.

 

I plan to add some vimeo footage soon of milliken footage. Excited to film with the S16mm modification I made, passed some footage through at 400fps and no scratches so soon time to get filming.

 

Its all fun and games with these cameras so the results will be a mix of good and plain ugly but who cares because I love it.

I am selling a set of 4 LOMO Anamorphic Prime lenses:

35mm f2.0 (t.2.5) Glass perfect, cosmetic near perfect

50mm f2.0 (t.2.4)Glass perfect, cosmetic 9/10

75mm f2.0 (t.2.5)Glass perfect, cosmetic 9/10

100mm f2.8 (t.3.4)Glass perfect, cosmetic 8/10

1 adapter Canon EOS - OCT19

Have a look at my photos of the set here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kristianschumacher/sets/72157624813695736/

The lenses have been stored the last couple of years. So they could probably benefit from a fine-tuning by a lens tech, but other than that are in near perfect condition.

Asking 18000 USD for the set. Will also consider good offers for part of the set.

Please e-mail me at kristian(.at.)kameraundervann(.dot.)no

Just wondering what power supply you use? I have lead acid batteries rigged up in series to create just over 28vdc, it works fine but slightly large.

 

I had some issues with the camera chewing up film after I altered it, the claw was entering the film perf but something was catching and instead of the claw pulling the film along it just tore it open. After taking it apart and cleaning all film chips and excess gunk it finally worked. managed 400pfs with single perf film which is more than I will need :)

 

Any other issues to look out for with this camera? Maintenance and film issues to be aware of?

 

Cheers,

 

Duncan

My camera is very reliable up ro 300 fps, and above that the risk of chewing increases. And yes, chips of film and gunk definitely are a problem. So get everything blown out properly before shooting for "real". I hooked up 4 small LiPo batteries for model helicopters off ebay - you only need the smallest ones - they give plenty of punch and have worked really well for me. And one charge lasts "forever".

Kristian

The Lomo 75mm anamorphic has been sold.

The camera is still up for sale. Either as a whole set or pieces.

Asking 2000 USD for the lot, but open to any offers. Shipping is the main problem, with the whole package weighing in at 130kgs. So if you are interested in only parts of the kit, like anamorphic/straight viewfinder, video tap, a motor or anything else, shipping can be worked out for individual parts.

Here is a quick video and some photos of the set:

http://vimeo.com/13125594

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51868503@N08/sets/72157624629155253/

Kristian

Hmmmm I just have that fear that once you move the centre of the lens you will create issues with focus but you can always scoot it back over to the original position. I love the Milliken design and they are pretty reliable machines. I have seen your vimeo footage of the pram down the stairs, what speed was that shot at? I will have to post some footage up from the camera soon, will be some vision 2 500T stock to test out some lenses.

 

I am using a Pan cinor lens with dogleg for my camera becuase i have a DBM 4 and it doesnt have the prism on the front. I bought a boresight but its a pain having to load the prism inside, focus the camera and then load the film. I want to be able to have the film loaded aim and shoot but getting that proved to be a pain.

I guess that could be a problem with the back focus. I am planning to use my camera underwater, so the whole focus thing has to be worked out with possible chims behind the lens anyway. I will probably be only using my Kinoptik 5.7mm with this camera. I am therefore not as worried as I would be if trying to get the right back focus to match the image in the Pan Cinor viewfinder.

But you may have the same problem with the back focus anyway, given the age of the camera and how long it has been since it was set properly.

The pram footage was before the s16 conversion, and before I got proper power for the camera. I think the speed was around 200fps, maybe just under, my top speed with the old battery pack.

I removed the prism and rotating front disc to do the s16 conversion, but I agree that the boresight is probably too cumbersome anyway to be of much use for me anyway.

Kristian

 

 

Do you have to recentre the lens mount if you convert to S16mm? The K3 doesn't need to be altered even though you modify the gate, you just limit the range the lens will cover.

I guess it depends on what lens you are using, if it will cover. But I am sure that if you manage to remove the sprockets and not make them scratch the film, you will have no problems at all recentering the mount. I just did what I saw on some site about a Bolex conversion - make the holes wider, shift the whole front plate the 1mm or so (I actually used a lens that doesn´t quite cover the frame, and centered the front plate by eye) filled the gaps with epoxy - or was it black silicone...can´t remember. Definitely the easiest part, though.

I would be interested in how you managed this conversion. There are 3 sprockets that have the 2 pins and i'm unsure if these can be removed. Would it be a case of filing these down to leave the single claw? Also I saw in some of your other posts that you converted to S16mm. I have done this to my K3 with success so wondered if the same could be done with the Milliken? I dont want to recentre the lens though as that is too much work.

 

Regards,

 

Duncan

Hi Duncan,

The 3 rollers with sprockets need to come out and the..... I´ll say "correct" side filed down - so not to confuse the left/right issue. They come out by unscrewing the screw at the top of the rollers, and it is a good idea to both take photos as you go, and remove the pieces systematically ie. place them on the table in the order they came off. That part was actually very easy, and I got zero scratching of the film on my first go :) Of course the surface needs to be very smooth not to damage the film. The pull-down claw was much trickier to get off, so I didn´t bother disassembling it. I just cut the claw on one side (the closest, most accessible one when you open the camera) so it is short enough to never go near the film. My camera had the prism assembly in the gate, so I just took that out and didn´t even need to file off any part of the gate actually touching the film - just some metal further forward that was blocking light into the gate.

Recentering was also really simple, as it is just a matter of moving the whole front plate by shifting the holes for mounting. But My camera had the rotating viewing front parts that had to come out. Sealed it up to avoid light leaks and done.... The whole thing took just a couple of hours, but I was lucky enough not to stuff it up - as I often do ;)

I took photos as I did the conversion, but can´t find them on my computer. Will post them when I find them. Here is the camera all done:

Best of luck,

Kristian

Hi,

 

Locking off the camera seems the safest way then when working with this camera. The DBM 5 has a variable speed motor so you could film at 24fps if you wanted however i'm really looking forward to filming some actions in slow motion.

 

I have loaded the camera with 2R film that was a recan from some time ago, its been tested and seems ok but once this lot is used then then I have to scout out more double perf film. Seems like this type is getting rare so I was thinking of converting the camera to accept normal 16mm film. Has anybody had experience with this?

I did this a year or two ago, and it was actually easier than I expected. It now runs up to 300 fps in s16 :)

Kristian

I just continued this thread here: http://www.cinematography.com/index.php?showtopic=47827 So it is not specific to 5d, but hopefully getting some more general input about these lenses.

Kristian

Thanks to you Both, Bruce and Dom,

I will get in touch with a tech, but it looks like I would need to send the lenses overseas :-( I am actually looking to sell the set, and it would be nice if there was a way to ensure that they are as good as they can be to get a good price - without spending tons of cash :rolleyes: just to find out. Looks like it may be the only way though.

Thanks for the tip about the concave focus plane. I have tried focusing based on the corners now, and I will have a proper look at the results - so far it doesn´t look like a big improvement...

Thanks again,

Kristian

Hi,

I just shot some stills with my new set of LOMO anamorphic round fronts, but I don´t really have anything to compare the results with, so would appreciate any input from anyone with experience with the performance of these or similar lenses.

The test shots were taken as stills on my 5d2, cropped to use the centre 21.95x18.6mm part of the sensor, then reduced vertical resolution to half - does this seem like the right way to estimate what these would look like on a 35mm camera with an anamorphic gate?

The shots are taken at widest aperture, then 4, 8 and 16. The 35mm especially seems to need a lot of stopping down to get sharp in the corners. I have read about this here before, but again don´t know exactly how much corner blur is considered normal/acceptable.

Please have a look and let me know what you think:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/51868503@N08/sets/72157624754990624/

Thanks,

Kristian

Where in thee Hell did you find a 100mm round front anamorphic ? :blink: AND how much did you pay for it? B)

Kristian or Hunter, is there any vignetting with the 50 or 35 on the 5d? How bad is barrel distortion? And what is the closest focusing distance?

 

I've been dreaming about a set of roundfronts for a while now....

The 35 and 50 don´t cover the whole frame of the 5d, but they don´t need to. When you unsqueeze the image 2x, they both just cover the 2.35 aspect ratio at 1080X2538.

I got the lenses as part of a big lot of Russian camera gear I got at a real bargain (but no, I am not saying how much of one ;-) ) I have actually pretty much decided that I will not be keeping the set of anamorphics after all.... They are too valuable, and as a student I need the cash more than I need these great lenses. I want to hold on to them for a while and play around and do some proper tests, maybe a short of some sort, and then will let them go if I get a good offer. But probably not for a few weeks/months until I have had my "fix" :D I will be selling the set with an adapter for Canon 5d/7d etc, although their real strength would be with a camera like red if digital or of course film.

I will post some tests in a different thread under "lenses" to find out a bit more about the performance of the LOMOs, will post link here though. Barrel distortion is quite visible on the 35mm, and a little on the 50.Have a look at the Vimeo link above for now, and I will post some stills soon. Minimum focus is 1m on all lenses except the 50mm which is a bit less (75cm?)

Kristian

50mm anamorphic is plenty wide.

 

 

I know this is not what you meant by "wide", but the 50mm is actually the one that covers the narrowest part of the sensor and needs careful alignment to avoid vignetting at 1:2.35

I managed to get the 35mm onto my 5d without removing the mirror :D I did have to remove the padding on the mirror holder though to get the mirror to move another mm up and out of the way of the lens. It now makes a much less shall we say "exclusive" sound when flipping the mirror up - but the 35mm just squeezes in!

Kristian

The 50mm 1.4 is a great lens and in my opinion is the best quality Canon lens at that price point (350 usd?)

Kristian

Thanks Hunter,

I actually thought of putting my comments as a reply to your similar post ;) Your clips were a major inspiration for me to try these lenses out. I will try out some of the longer lenses vertically to see if the 16:9/anamorphic combination could be an interesting look. Shooting vertical anamorphic and desqueezing to 2160x1215 could be a cool effect, even when downscaled to 1080x1920 to be intercut with other normal HD footage.

I am exploring different looks including anamorphic and s16mm for a TV show idea, a bit like the cool s8mm clips in "Globe Trekker", Travel channel series - but more cinematic, dolly moves, time lapses and so on than the rough hand held look that works so well in those particular scenes.

But I do really want to fit that 35mm to my 5d somehow...... It looks and feels like an absolutely fantastic piece of glass, and it ALLMOST fits.......

Kristian

Hi everyone,

I have just bought 2 sets of LOMO lenses, and I am trying to get the most out of them with my 5d. I just got the mount today, and the set of round front anamorphic seems quite promising. The set is 35mm f.2, 50mm f.2, 75mm f.2 and 100mm f. 2.8. Both the 75mm and the 100mm cover the whole sensor and clear the mirror of my 5d, so no problem there. The 50mm catches the mirror, but if I put the mirror up before mounting the lens it works fine. When the mirror catches when trying to fall it disengages and seems to take no damage after the lens is removed and the mirror going up/down. The 35mm is just a tiny way off clearing the mirror when it is up - it is hard to tell, but I am guessing less than a mm.

So all lenses except the 35mm seem to be quite useable, but I really want that great lens to work as well..... So I guess I have 2 options: removing the mirror or taking off a tiny bit of the metal on of top of the part that holds the rear element in place. I really want to keep the mirror for stills, so - would filing off a tiny bit of this rear part be a really bad idea? Anyone???

Next idea: I have read a few of the posts here with people experimenting with LOMO anamorphics on the 5d, and of course you loose some resolution by only using about 60-65% of the sensor (for 1:2.40/2.35) So I had the idea of turning the camera vertical and ending up with a picture higher than 1080 pixels. It looks like all the lenses will cover the height of the sensor even when turned 90 degrees, and from testing a little this afternoon it seems I can get 16:9 crop of 2160x1215 (1080x1215 before unsqueezing) - even the widest lens seems to cover that. I guess it defeats the Idea of scope film to be really wide, but it is just an idea to get the best quality out of these lenses with the camera I have at the moment.

Any ideas and warnings appreciated,

Kristian

And going through the package properly today, I should add that it has what appears to be a 24 fps crystal sync speed control and a PL-mount that I am not sure if fits the camera - it may have been put in to be fitted on a new front. The camera actually comes with 4 motors - I was told by the previous owner that it had 3 working motors, 1 animation, 1 24fps motor and 1 high speed motor. 2 of the motors read up to 132 fps, but maybe only one is working.

I have decided to keep the 75mm anamorphic until I get a chance to shoot a test with it - unless I get a very good offer untested ;-)

Kristian

I just put up some photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/51868503@N08/

And even a quick video here: http://vimeo.com/13125594 (The video is not there to start a discussion on rolling shutter or the use of autofocus, by the way :P )

Kristian