Jump to content

Kristian Schumacher

Basic Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Kristian Schumacher

  • Rank

  • Birthday 03/31/1976

Profile Information

  • Occupation
  • Location
    Oslo, Norway

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Recent Profile Visitors

3615 profile views
  1. I unfortunately have to sell my set of LOMOs to raise some cash for my docu project. The set is 22mm-75mm and includes an additional 75mm macro and a follow focus unit. Please feel free to ask me any questions to kristian (at) kameraundervann (dot) no http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330797973585 Kristian
  2. I am selling the following camera gear, just listed on Ebay: S16mm 300fps Milliken high speed camera: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330775789114 Kinoptik 5.7mm: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330775230002 S16mm K-3 with Nikon mount: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330775797123 Please have a look and ask any questions by mail: kristian (at) godpaabunn.no Thanks, Kristian
  3. Thanks for all your interest. All anamorphic lenses are now sold, including the 100mm. Congrats to Ruairi on your new lens set! Kristian
  4. Hi Ruairi, No,the 100mm is still for sale. I have had a lot of people interested in that particular lens, and decided not to include it in the set, but I still have it. I don't visit this site that often, so it is easier to get in touch by my email above. Kristian
  5. The set of 3 lenses is up on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330492831069&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_500wt_1156 Feel free to ask any questions, Kristian
  6. Oh, and if you want to use these lenses with the RED, here is the mount: http://cgi.ebay.com/Lomo-OCT-19-mount-RED-ONE-CAMERA-ARRI-Konvas-5d-PL-/200521925198?pt=Film_Cameras&hash=item2eb009c24e Kristian
  7. I have set the price to 15000 USD for the whole set, alternatively 13000 USD for only the 35, 50 and 75mm lenses - as I may have a buyer for the 100mm. Kristian
  8. Hi Duncan, Glad to hear that the s16 conversion went OK and that the camera runs fine. If the camera runs OK attaching the battery straight to the motor, I´d try hooking the same battery up to pins 10+11 (Double check this in the manual I uploaded) That should work, and that is all I have done to mine - after trying lots of other, more complicated things first..... Kristian
  9. I am selling a set of 4 LOMO Anamorphic Prime lenses: 35mm f2.0 (t.2.5) Glass perfect, cosmetic near perfect 50mm f2.0 (t.2.4)Glass perfect, cosmetic 9/10 75mm f2.0 (t.2.5)Glass perfect, cosmetic 9/10 100mm f2.8 (t.3.4)Glass perfect, cosmetic 8/10 1 adapter Canon EOS - OCT19 Have a look at my photos of the set here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/kristianschumacher/sets/72157624813695736/ The lenses have been stored the last couple of years. So they could probably benefit from a fine-tuning by a lens tech, but other than that are in near perfect condition. Asking 18000 USD for the set. Will also consider good offers for part of the set. Please e-mail me at kristian(.at.)kameraundervann(.dot.)no
  10. My camera is very reliable up ro 300 fps, and above that the risk of chewing increases. And yes, chips of film and gunk definitely are a problem. So get everything blown out properly before shooting for "real". I hooked up 4 small LiPo batteries for model helicopters off ebay - you only need the smallest ones - they give plenty of punch and have worked really well for me. And one charge lasts "forever". Kristian
  11. The Lomo 75mm anamorphic has been sold. The camera is still up for sale. Either as a whole set or pieces. Asking 2000 USD for the lot, but open to any offers. Shipping is the main problem, with the whole package weighing in at 130kgs. So if you are interested in only parts of the kit, like anamorphic/straight viewfinder, video tap, a motor or anything else, shipping can be worked out for individual parts. Here is a quick video and some photos of the set: http://vimeo.com/13125594 http://www.flickr.com/photos/51868503@N08/sets/72157624629155253/ Kristian
  12. I guess that could be a problem with the back focus. I am planning to use my camera underwater, so the whole focus thing has to be worked out with possible chims behind the lens anyway. I will probably be only using my Kinoptik 5.7mm with this camera. I am therefore not as worried as I would be if trying to get the right back focus to match the image in the Pan Cinor viewfinder. But you may have the same problem with the back focus anyway, given the age of the camera and how long it has been since it was set properly. The pram footage was before the s16 conversion, and before I got proper power for the camera. I think the speed was around 200fps, maybe just under, my top speed with the old battery pack. I removed the prism and rotating front disc to do the s16 conversion, but I agree that the boresight is probably too cumbersome anyway to be of much use for me anyway. Kristian
  13. I guess it depends on what lens you are using, if it will cover. But I am sure that if you manage to remove the sprockets and not make them scratch the film, you will have no problems at all recentering the mount. I just did what I saw on some site about a Bolex conversion - make the holes wider, shift the whole front plate the 1mm or so (I actually used a lens that doesn´t quite cover the frame, and centered the front plate by eye) filled the gaps with epoxy - or was it black silicone...can´t remember. Definitely the easiest part, though.
  14. Hi Duncan, The 3 rollers with sprockets need to come out and the..... I´ll say "correct" side filed down - so not to confuse the left/right issue. They come out by unscrewing the screw at the top of the rollers, and it is a good idea to both take photos as you go, and remove the pieces systematically ie. place them on the table in the order they came off. That part was actually very easy, and I got zero scratching of the film on my first go :) Of course the surface needs to be very smooth not to damage the film. The pull-down claw was much trickier to get off, so I didn´t bother disassembling it. I just cut the claw on one side (the closest, most accessible one when you open the camera) so it is short enough to never go near the film. My camera had the prism assembly in the gate, so I just took that out and didn´t even need to file off any part of the gate actually touching the film - just some metal further forward that was blocking light into the gate. Recentering was also really simple, as it is just a matter of moving the whole front plate by shifting the holes for mounting. But My camera had the rotating viewing front parts that had to come out. Sealed it up to avoid light leaks and done.... The whole thing took just a couple of hours, but I was lucky enough not to stuff it up - as I often do ;) I took photos as I did the conversion, but can´t find them on my computer. Will post them when I find them. Here is the camera all done: Best of luck, Kristian
  15. I did this a year or two ago, and it was actually easier than I expected. It now runs up to 300 fps in s16 :) Kristian
  • Create New...