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Patrick Hunter

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  1. Just started school, and I'm about to do my first shoot on film. I'm doing some very wide daytime shots of the city from on top of a roof. One of them is a shot from behind a actor looking out at the skyline. Would I be right to expose for the landscape rather then the person since the landscape (skyline etc) is my focal point and dominant part of the shot?
  2. Patrick Hunter

    DB

    Does DB on digital camera's count as full stops when dealing with exposures. For instance when going from 6DB to 3DB is that equivalent to 1 full stop? Thanks
  3. Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum and I have two basic questions. 1st. When shooting a grey scale in daylight, does the daylight act as your white light? Or do you need to light it with a sepreate lamp? I assume, shooting on Daylight film the daylight is what you would shoot your card under. If so when your subject is backlight should you shoot the card in open shade and then when you move to shots where the sun is acting as front light do you change the posistion of your card towards the sun? Or can you just get away with shooting the scale in the sun and having shots backlit, frontlit and sidelit and not having the card shot at different angles? 2nd. Exposure. I understand its up to your interpertation. But when your doing a dark scene or bright scene what is a good number of stops to underexpose/over key? Like lets say for real dark scenes would it be best to play it safe and never go 2 stops under key or for a very bright scene like a desert go 2 stops over key? Also for a dim scene such as a room in the day time, no lights on, curtains down but light peaks through making it somewhat dim but not very dark. Would like half-1 stop under key be sginificant. I understand that like ambient, wall light, backlight, etc. can go more under but I'm just looking to understand whats enough for key without crushing or blowing out my image. THANKS PATRICK
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