radar71

here's an example: http://www.spyentertainment.com/media/sr_06/3.mov is it a lens attatchment / filter or the lens itself? I'm shooting s16 (which is why i'm posting up here)

thanks Ryan. i'll give this a shot and report back. will be pretty nice to have an "adjustable" shutter on this camera.

Can you post up simple quick instructions to take off front plate and remove shutter? i'll do the mod and report back on it.

i guess it's a matter of opening up the front plate of the camera and taking a look inside... you want to go first? i'm thinking that the shutter can be modfied with some tape and hard plastic sheeting, like what's on the cover of a notebook or something. what do you think? it'd be cool to be able to get a 15º shutter on that camera. as far as lenses go, i'm looking to get the peleng 8mm and maybe an attachment to use my regular pentax 35mm lenses.

i've got the same camera, same mod. i did a test with a simple card with cross hairs. the center is still basically the center... don't worry about the viewfinder, the difference was really slight. now what about adjusting the shutter angle with tape and paper?

I understand that with paper and tape you can do temporary shutter angle adjustments on the k3. has anyone ever opened the camera up and done this?

i think that's true. film is film and you can always scan it at a higher resolution. also the depth of field is way better and more beautiful. however i like the idea of getting a large frame and being able to squeeze it down to 720X486. because in reality, i'm getting the S16/35mm stuff on a digibeta which i then import uncompressed 8-10 bit @ 720X486 so that said, which of the 2 is going to be the higher resolution image? i expect that my work will be displayed mostly on a computer screen (lcd) or on someone's TV watching a DVD reel.

with S16mm you've got the spirit/da vinci process which gives a "look" to the film without degrading the image too much. question for you all is; is the FX1 a viable alternative to shooting film at the moment? can you achieve comparable images?

i'm going to do some tests this weekend with my s16mm kras. i'll lock the camera down and shoot 12fps with lip synch to a track slowed down by 1/2. actor will behave slowly. another test will be shooting at 48fps with a normal speed track and then cutting out every other frame. anyone have test ideas? i'll shoot good ideas and post online. obviously the way to do this is shoot 12fps with 45 degree shutter angle, or a strobe synched up that runs 1,000 times per second. but that's if we had a budget.

anyone know how to acheive the effect seen in: -latest Cure video shot i think by chris soos -Marilyn Manson video (beautiful people) same DP -Radio Head video, where singer is walking through forest. it looks like stop motion sort of. i believe it's done by undercranking at 6-12fps and having the actors lip synch to a slowed down track, also walking slowly. is the variable shutter important for this look? ie. 90 degrees or below... there is no motion blur. sharp frames. it occured to me that the look may be achieved as well by over cranking in camera @ 48fps or higher, and then speeding it up in the transfer... that way there're more frames to mess around with. hopefully someone out there knows... or else it's going to be a lot of testing to do! thanks guys.

I'm shooting a music promo. want to shoot outside at night and get that "night vision" effect. it would be simple enough to shoot the IR stuff on dv with a one chip camera, but the thought occured to me that i could buy a Russian night vision scope and attach it to a film camera; 35mm or super 16mm. any one have any ideas about that? also i would like to shoot some of the scenes with a strobe light illuminating trees and foliage (not with night vision). i understand there are issues with frame rate etc. would be great to get some thoughts on that too. this will be a low budget promo.

yes sorry. it is some kind of "fantasy" mode. the light doesn't need to be motivated but can be pretty uniform. soft with shadows. my concern is in lighting it and fogging it. how to maintain the conditions during the lighting process and then have them remain for the shots.

use a still 35mm camera and practice with really simple setups. you should be able to find some basic lighting techniques online (i know you can, i'll leave the googling to you). do those and realize how they work, key, fill, rim. etc. the artistic part cannot be learned or taught you need the eye.

i'm shooting a white room that must be filled with fog and the characters coming in and out of it to do certain actions in front of the camera. the fog will be used also as a "wipe" to transition to the different people coming in and out. shadows will move around in the fog. any one know how to light for this kind of a situation?

just picked up 8 rolls of 7218 from the guys @ http://www.raw-stock.com/ for $30 a roll. 100' daylights. also picked up a test roll of fuji daylight something or other for $24. what's the best place to get the fuji developed quickly? i'm just going to shoot it on the street and make sure the camera works fine.